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[PICS] 6-point rollbar installed!!

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Old Jan 23, 2005 | 03:03 PM
  #21  
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Im buying the roll bar kit form jegs ill see how it fits i have a plasma cutter that might make it fit better.although it whould make nasty cuts so i whoudlnt use it.
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Old Jan 23, 2005 | 03:20 PM
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having done some dirt cars, id say your fabber has great eye for detail, and did a good job. notice the factory letter marking on the pipes? he bent the pipes inline with it and kept it all the same. makes little difference but is sign of a professional. looks great
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Old Jan 23, 2005 | 03:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Budman78
How do you fill those holes? Do you use sheet metal or glass them in? I've never put in a roll bar, so this is pretty interesting.
I'll use sheet aluminum so that they can be removed for inspection by the NHRA.. They sometimes want to see the welds..
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Old Jan 23, 2005 | 03:58 PM
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Originally Posted by lostpatrolman
GS, looks great. How long did it take for them to build the roll bar.
It's difficult to say how long the actual work time on the bar was.. He had the car 2 weeks.. but I don't think that it took more than 2 - 3 days to do all the work...
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Old Jan 23, 2005 | 03:58 PM
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Originally Posted by yellow73sb
Im buying the roll bar kit form jegs ill see how it fits i have a plasma cutter that might make it fit better.although it whould make nasty cuts so i whoudlnt use it.
The Jegs kit will fit but won't work for a convertible.. Well - it works if you remove the convertible top and cut a big part of the deck...
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Old Jan 23, 2005 | 03:59 PM
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Originally Posted by redc3
having done some dirt cars, id say your fabber has great eye for detail, and did a good job. notice the factory letter marking on the pipes? he bent the pipes inline with it and kept it all the same. makes little difference but is sign of a professional. looks great
The guy knows what he's doing... He is doing it since the 60's...
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Old Jan 23, 2005 | 04:02 PM
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Originally Posted by GrandSportC3
The Jegs kit will fit but won't work for a convertible.. Well - it works if you remove the convertible top and cut a big part of the deck...
How mcuh did it cost? Hes not far from me. i think the kite from jegs for 230 dollars sounds good to me
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Old Jan 23, 2005 | 04:12 PM
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Originally Posted by yellow73sb
How mcuh did it cost? Hes not far from me. i think the kite from jegs for 230 dollars sounds good to me
I paid $500 for labor, $200 for the tubing (chrome moly) and $150 for the swing out kiit... Total cost was $850. It would've been $700 without the swing out kit and about $550 - 600 if I would've gone with steel tubing instead of chrome moly..
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Old Jan 23, 2005 | 04:19 PM
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Originally Posted by norvalwilhelm
Where do you hook up the 4 point harness? The cross bar is way too low, in a crash the belt would not hold you back.
The rear attachment point should be 4 no more then 6 inches maximum below the shoulder. Also the back of the seat will be up against the cross bar along with your head on the upper bar.
I was thinking the same thing, maybe it's the angle of the picture but it does look kinda low.

Are your seats going to sit directly on the floor?
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Old Jan 23, 2005 | 05:32 PM
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Originally Posted by EDDIEJ82
I was thinking the same thing, maybe it's the angle of the picture but it does look kinda low.

Are your seats going to sit directly on the floor?
The seat is sitting very low... The mount for the harness is right where it needs to be... We lined up the racing seat with the harness bar in the middle and they line up perfectly... Due to the low seat height, the rollbar is also lower...
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Old Jan 23, 2005 | 06:09 PM
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Looks good Oliver and I saved the pictures for future use.

I hate to be a critic, but I do believe on mine I will use a piece of 3"x6" angle to make a foot for the bar instead of just welding it straight to the frame rail. This would help spread the impact over a larger area with the thin frame rail that is folded and tacked together. jim
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Old Jan 23, 2005 | 08:14 PM
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Originally Posted by PROSOUTH
I hate to be a critic, but I do believe on mine I will use a piece of 3"x6" angle to make a foot for the bar instead of just welding it straight to the frame rail. This would help spread the impact over a larger area with the thin frame rail that is folded and tacked together. jim
I did plates with mine and the track hasn't given me any problems yet (need to go faster ). I still need to replace (update) my harness and add a driveshaft safety loop for this coming year

I too saved some pics for when I need to add the side bars
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Old Jan 23, 2005 | 08:15 PM
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Originally Posted by PROSOUTH
Looks good Oliver and I saved the pictures for future use.

I hate to be a critic, but I do believe on mine I will use a piece of 3"x6" angle to make a foot for the bar instead of just welding it straight to the frame rail. This would help spread the impact over a larger area with the thin frame rail that is folded and tacked together. jim
The only place where it's directly welded to the frame is at the 2 rear bars... All 4 front points are built the way you are talking about..
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Old Jan 23, 2005 | 08:22 PM
  #34  
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How about the window cranks????
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Old Jan 23, 2005 | 08:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Cali,68,L-79
Is he a CF supporting vendor?

Oliver had to go out drinking so did not have time to finish up the reply.
Just messing with ya not a post.

P.S. obviously no longer intrested in TKO. Going to finish up my underhood detailing get her painted and thats it. Hope to trade up to a Z06 someday.
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Old Jan 23, 2005 | 08:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Cali,68,L-79
Oliver had to go out drinking so did not have time to finish up the reply.
Just messing with ya not a post.

P.S. obviously no longer intrested in TKO. Going to finish up my underhood detailing get her painted and thats it. Hope to trade up to a Z06 someday.
ok!
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Old Jan 23, 2005 | 08:24 PM
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Originally Posted by norvalwilhelm
How about the window cranks????
They can only be operated with the door open... The car will be more of a race car than street car.. so that doesn't matter to me...
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Old Jan 23, 2005 | 08:26 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by GrandSportC3
They can only be operated with the door open... The car will be more of a race car than street car.. so that doesn't matter to me...
So once you pull to the line if the window is down even a bit you have to open the door to close the window.
Poor planning.
Also the roll bar 4 point mount. I just looked in the box and they say level and no more then 4 inches below the level of the shoulder. I feel you will have a problem meeting this requirement.

Last edited by norvalwilhelm; Jan 23, 2005 at 08:29 PM.
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Old Jan 23, 2005 | 08:55 PM
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Old race car trick, Get a short window crank handle from an old Caddy or something with a crank out vent window. They were real short and will pop right on. I think one will clear the bar and you'll have it whipped.

I was worried about the mount shown being safe for you, not trying to be critical of your builder. jim
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Old Jan 23, 2005 | 09:05 PM
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Originally Posted by norvalwilhelm
So once you pull to the line if the window is down even a bit you have to open the door to close the window.
Poor planning.
Also the roll bar 4 point mount. I just looked in the box and they say level and no more then 4 inches below the level of the shoulder. I feel you will have a problem meeting this requirement.
The point is right where it has to be.. It's right in front of the opening in the seat where the harness is coming through...
The sidebars are where I wanted to have them to be comfortable... If they would be higher - they'd bother me when steeting.. If they were lovwer - they would be too low... C3 interiors aren't too spacious..
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