FS: 1972 coupe - frame off project
#21
Advanced
Thread Starter
Member Since: Nov 2013
Location: Twin Bridges Montana
Posts: 63
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I got these pieces OEM as I wanted to make sure the front end got hung back on straight. I have so far stuck to NCRS for the most part. In the case of the front end, I was going to go a little non-stock with a newer radiator to provide better cooling since even the original 350 engines ran hot, so I was planning on a new core support to accommodate. With these original press-molded parts it is much easier to get the front end straight.
#22
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Mar 2003
Location: Indianapolis IN
Posts: 3,472
Received 444 Likes
on
322 Posts
Finalist 2020 C4 of the Year - Unmodified
C4 of Year Finalist (stock) 2019
Good morning Ed,
Thank you for the disclosure and the pictures. The bodywork is more than I would be wiling to take on right now, so I'm going to officially bow out. Personally, if I were to take on repairing someone elses old front end collision damage repair like that, I would just replace the entire front clip...but that's just me.
You have done a lot of very nice work, and I too believe your price is very fair for what's offered. The right buyer will come along and snap this up.
I truly wish you all the best with your sale.
Dave
Thank you for the disclosure and the pictures. The bodywork is more than I would be wiling to take on right now, so I'm going to officially bow out. Personally, if I were to take on repairing someone elses old front end collision damage repair like that, I would just replace the entire front clip...but that's just me.
You have done a lot of very nice work, and I too believe your price is very fair for what's offered. The right buyer will come along and snap this up.
I truly wish you all the best with your sale.
Dave
#23
Advanced
Thread Starter
Member Since: Nov 2013
Location: Twin Bridges Montana
Posts: 63
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Good morning Ed,
Thank you for the disclosure and the pictures. The bodywork is more than I would be wiling to take on right now, so I'm going to officially bow out. Personally, if I were to take on repairing someone elses old front end collision damage repair like that, I would just replace the entire front clip...but that's just me.
You have done a lot of very nice work, and I too believe your price is very fair for what's offered. The right buyer will come along and snap this up.
I truly wish you all the best with your sale.
Dave
Thank you for the disclosure and the pictures. The bodywork is more than I would be wiling to take on right now, so I'm going to officially bow out. Personally, if I were to take on repairing someone elses old front end collision damage repair like that, I would just replace the entire front clip...but that's just me.
You have done a lot of very nice work, and I too believe your price is very fair for what's offered. The right buyer will come along and snap this up.
I truly wish you all the best with your sale.
Dave
Myself, I've never been a fan of the one-piece front ends, nor the hand laid repro pieces. Inconsistent thickness, not finished out to the edges, etc made for less than satisfactory front ends. You can of course buy the full factory pre-assembled front ends for a ton of money, but since I've a lot of experience with building/rebuilding these front ends it made sense for me to save what I could.
Since I wanted to stay factory and the fenders were undamaged I decided to keep them. Now since I probably would have had to pop them off their bonding strips to replace the inner fenders, I probably would have ended up popping them off the door frame/chassis as part of the front end fix, just to make lining up everything easier. In effect a complete front clip replacement.
In any case, thanks for looking.
Ed
#24
Melting Slicks
Lot of goodies here!
Lot of goodies here for somebody looking for a project, very fair price.
Suggest you put it on ebay if you do not get any takers here with no reserve and a starting price of $6900. Whoever wants it can pay a shipper or pay you to ship part way.
Good luck with sale!
Suggest you put it on ebay if you do not get any takers here with no reserve and a starting price of $6900. Whoever wants it can pay a shipper or pay you to ship part way.
Good luck with sale!
#25
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Sep 2012
Location: LaGrange Park, IL IL
Posts: 2,308
Received 158 Likes
on
131 Posts
St. Jude Donor '13, '15
Any pics of the numbers matching motor and interior? Does the original motor run, what work does it need?
Also, you mention a buyer would need to know how to build a C3. Not to sound ignorant, because I have no idea so I'm asking out of curiosity, but what makes it difficult?
Last edited by imgn tht; 10-01-2017 at 02:32 PM.
#26
Advanced
Thread Starter
Member Since: Nov 2013
Location: Twin Bridges Montana
Posts: 63
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I agree. Been kicking around the idea to sell C5 for a C3 project, but it would be my first and sounds like well over my technical capability and existing tool box inventory. But darn this would be an exciting project.
Any pics of the numbers matching motor and interior? Does the original motor run, what work does it need?
Also, you mention a buyer would need to know how to build a C3. Not to sound ignorant, because I have no idea so I'm asking out of curiosity, but what makes it difficult?
Any pics of the numbers matching motor and interior? Does the original motor run, what work does it need?
Also, you mention a buyer would need to know how to build a C3. Not to sound ignorant, because I have no idea so I'm asking out of curiosity, but what makes it difficult?
The engine is apart, and the original parts except for the block are all boxed. The engine had a deep scratch in one cylinder and my engine builder guy bored it .30-over before he asked me. (Not his fault, my original plans had been to hot-rod this car until I found the matching numbers, and I did not get that info passed on to him in time.) He did NOT deck the block so the numbers are still there and clean. This is where I decided to put this original engine on the shelf and let any future owner(s) decide whether to go with the .30 over bore, or sleeve the block or what. The NCRS folks did not have a lot of advice one way or another for that question. That is why I got the crate engine to put in for a fun driver engine you didn't have to worry about putting your foot into it a little. In the crate engine pics you will see a more modern distributor also, so a slight wiring harness mod needed for electronic ignition.
The skill and expertise to build a C3 from parts is not different than building any other car from parts, except for a few places that are unique to Corvette, ie fiberglass. I have the Factory assembly manuals so every part of the car is diagramed out, with a ton of detail.
Most folks can do the running gear parts... the frame, suspension, brakes, engine, tranny, etc., the IRS is slightly different than some folks are used to.
The body work is where it gets different. There are several different types of fiberglass used in Corvettes and their repair. Originally these were built with press-molded fiberglass. Hard to find these OEM parts now. A whole lot of places make repro parts, but they are inject molded, sprayed, or hand laid fiberglass. These parts are a different composition of fiberglass, and may or may not have gel-coating, or uniform thickness. All of this affects how you must do the repairs. This is why I have the PM OEM parts to repair this. Both for NCRS reasons and because the bond between PM glass and hand-laid is not as good as PM to PM.
The other part of build a C3 is the order of assembly. Like how to hang on a front end from parts... do it in the wrong order and you'll be doing it over. This is where experience really comes in. (And the reason the one piece front end clips are so popular. :-)
So the question is really one of can you take a car completely apart, and put it back together? If so, then can you take a car taken apart by someone else, and put that one back together?