Lfmiller

I'm a new member to the Forum, this is my first post. I am looking for a 73 or older Vette to race in vintage racing. I'm interested in either a car prepped for vintage racing or one I can buy cheap enough to build for racing without breaking the bank. I noticed a flood damaged C3 that was priced at $6200, this may have been a good candidate but alas it sold on eBay. Interested to see what's out there.

switchplanner

redvetracr has two race car projects for sale that you should check out.
Good luck!

redvetracr

I have this

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...t-a-p-b-p.html

and this...if your serious send a PM and I will fwd a phone number

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...barn-find.html

Lfmiller

Thanks for your quick reply. These cars are more of a project than I want to take on right now. I'm hoping to find a car that is more complete.

Best of luck in selling these.

redvetracr

my `70 is too much of a project but starting with a flood damaged car isn`t?

128racecar

2018 will be my 20th year vintage racing. Having both resurrected two old race cars, along with converting two street cars into vintage race cars, I have some experience vintage race car prep in both avenues. Here is my take on your three options to get onto the track in vintage racing:

1. Buy a car already done. Believe it or not, this is the cheapest way in. Race cars are worth far less together than in pieces. I have purchased three race cars with the intent of only parting them out, and tripled or quadrupled what I paid for them. Never buy one when first listed. Contrary to every seller's thoughts, the number of potential buyers are tiny compared to street cars, and you can make a killer deal after a car has been on the market for six months...or a year....or a couple of years. Also, you want to go faster! Buying a done car will allow to you to get on the track 1-3 years faster than if you build a car. Any third year driver is WAY faster than a rookie. Don't worry about not getting the thrill of prepping your own car- even the best prepped race car will require a lot of work setting it up to your preferences.

2. Build a car from a street car. This is the hardest, slowest, and most expensive way in. Even when you do ALL of your own work like me, ie, build your engines, suspension set up, etc, the parts list costs alone will be staggering. One, most of what is on a street car is going to taken off and thrown away. Two, what is left that can be used as stock need to be totally refreshed. Three, a lot of the usable stock parts, like brakes and suspension, will not be strong enough for the rigors of racing, and will need to be replaced for safety reasons as a minimum. Four, just because you have all the go-fast parts doesn't mean things will work in harmony at the beginning. It took 3-4 years for me to get my two street-origin cars up to reliable, race speed status (and one of them, only one open practice session for my son to total all those years of work!).

3. Build/rebuild a race car from the ones listed above. Not cheap, but much less expensive compared to building one from a street car. Should be faster from the get-go as well. I looked at those ads above, and I see cages that should pass most techs with some thorough inspection and slight updates, some nice race brake and suspension pieces, and the basic template to build a car to your tastes. Should be on the track sooner than a street car conversion, and where you will know every nut and bolt in the rebuild you did (which you'll want to know the first time you nail the brakes going into turn 1 at 100 mph with 20 fire-breathing monsters).

Be forewarned- building and racing a vintage eligible A or B Production or GT1 Corvette is big boy racing. It will not be cheap- tires, brakes, and even engines that last me a full race season in my Civic might last only a race weekend for those guys. I'll spend a weekend just checking tire pressures and fiddling with my carb jetting, while I'll see the Corvettes up on four jack stands after every race session fixing something major. Adrenaline comes at a high price.

Look around, don't impulse buy, talk to as many guys as you can. Spend a few races crewing for someone's Vette to get an idea of what it takes to put a car together. If redvetracr is not too far away, go look at what he has to get an idea of what is out there. One of those looks familiar- if it was the one that was at Gingerman at the May VSCDA event, I actually think that one had great potential to get on the track. Ask questions- there are a lot of racers here in the forum and at vintage events who can get you rolling.

Good luck!
Marc in Indy
72 Corvette coupe 350/auto loaded survivor
79 Honda Civic, former SCCA GT5 car, now backdated to be T/A 2.5 with the VSCDA

Lfmiller

Marc,

Thanks for the great advice, you have confirmed my thoughts after looking for cars to prepare myself. I am going to focus on finding a car already prep'd for racing. I have been racing a SRF3 in SCCA and getting back on the track as quickly as possible is appealing.Lon

redvetracr

you do not recognize either of my cars for sale above as they haven`t been raced in years but you might know my #1 below from Road America or IRP or Road Atlanta or Roebling Road or Heartland Park Topeka if you ever raced with HSR, SVRA or RMVR, I raced in group-6 with the VSCDA plenty including my last race the 2006 ELVF which I won, it`s the third of three original Owens-Corning built cars (see the original paint job in my avatar from when it raced in Germany 71-72), I ran 36 vintage races from 96-06 with only 1 DNF for a blown motor, I am also a six time overall winner in group-6 (not just my class but the overall race winner) at Road America with a fast lap of 2:25.0 during the 05 ELVF, the pic below is from the 2005 Bric where 40 or so cars crashed at the start, I qualified third (in front of the crash) in a 58 car field.
the flaw in the OP`s thesis is that unlike a SRF where all the cars are basically identical group-6 cars are anything but spec racers, buying someones used race car is buying just that used (and probably worn out) parts which means most systems (wheel bearings, brakes, motor, trans, clutch, diff and all the hoses) in the car should be rebuilt or replaced not to mention the seat that may or may not fit and the harness which will most likely have a short date and car color that he may or may not care for all of which means you will be paying for parts twice...just the opinion of someone who raced and won in group-6.

bjm

REDVETRACR's project with the 73 nose could literally be race ready by the beginning of race season with some hard work and if you had a motor, or even if you did have a motor, it is not that big of a project. Also, if you are going to buy a race car (presumably a Corvette bc you are on CF) how much are you looking to spend?

While buying a car that is ready to go is always cheaper, if you were to build it yourself these are two very good starting points. I have actually restored then raced a Corvette race car that basically started off like the 73 and it is not that hard.

Also, DO NOT START WITH A STREET CAR for vintage racing maybe for a SCCA build but it will cost you 2-3x to make it a worthy dependable race car. Either buy a good project or step up and spend the $$ and buy a GOOD Corvette race car, or whatever brand you are looking for.

bjm

Also, if I didn't have to restore, fix, pay for another Corvette race car I would have already bought the 73 project bc its such an easy restoration and already has most of the things that need to be done to build a good vintage Corvette race car. But that is just me!

128racecar

A follow up to my above thoughts:

A ready to go car may be the least expensive and quickest way to get on the track, but not necessarily the best way. You'll still have to do extensive parts refreshing, even on a car that just came off the track. Since you have extensive track time under your belt, getting seat time right away may not be as critical. My preference has been to build a car from an existing race car for three reasons:

1. I know every component is fresh.

2. Since I took everything apart and put it back together, I know EXACTLY how everything goes together. Often handy at the track, when you have limited time between race sessions to repair things, and when a factory shop manual or AIM doesn't help, since parts are custom built/aftermarket/fabricated.

3. I like to know that EVERY nut and bolt was personally tightened/torqued by me.

Have fun- That's what racing should be all about.
Marc in Indy

grandsport guy

I just saw your post that you are looking for a vintage corvette racer. I have a 69 corvette roadster that that we have raced for the last 4 years with SVRA, VRG, and HRG. Car is complete and race ready with spares. One of the nicest and well thought out cars that you will ever see. please call me for more info, pictures, and videos.Kim Walker 570 419 6318

Lfmiller

Thanks for your note, I have already committed to buy another car

Good luck selling yours

bjm

What car did you end up buying?

Lfmiller

I bought a vintage national champion 1966 Volvo P1800S with trailer, spares, etc.