On my 93 coupe, the PKE light is on. I saw a thread that says you can read the codes by jumping the A & H pins on the DLC. But this method says you need the fob, which I don't have. Can I do this without the fob or do I need to take it to the dealer?

 

Yes and no. Luv those answers! Yes grounding H displays the DTCs. And A is the ground pin. So you can use a paper clip to jumper the two.

Key in Ignition
Ignition is OFF
Ground pin H
PKE lamp on the DIC will flash codes.

12 Bad receiver memory
13 Transmitter not in range
14 non valid transmitter received
15 valid transmitter received
16 passenger door button pressed
17 hatch button pressed.

12, 13, 14 current state of system
14, 15,16 17 are functional checks.

When you say the light is on, you mean all the time or just initially and then its off?

 

Light is on all the time, also I can leave my lights on or keys in the ignition and the I do not hear the warning chimes when the I open the door.

 

Ok let me run through the charts and see what comes up. I'll post after work.

 

Awesome, this thing is driving me CRAZY!!!

 

ttt

 

Lets see here, first PKE I don't believe to be related to the Door chime or Lights reminder chime. It is possible we are working two separate problems. However, some signals are intermixed such as Door Adjar Input forwards to PKE. We will need to do some fault isolation.

The chimes may be related to UTD (universal theft deterrent). One that you didn't mention was whether or not the Door Ajar light was on when the door is open.

Fuse LCD 5A at location #38 should be good. Check it with a DVM to verify. This ties to Tone Generator and Instrument Cluster (Security lamp).

There is a Key In Ignition input that passes off voltage to PKE module and on to a switch that when the key is inserted but ignition off or accessory and then goes on to a common ground. That specific ground is the same ground for LH door key switch, rh door key switch, PKE entry module, LH door adjar, and RH door adjar. A faulty ground there would cause intermittent problems.

I'll check the location of this ground for you. There are a whole series of black/white wires coming from all the above plus ties into transmission position switch, seat belt, fuel pump, crusie control module. and then on to ties to SIR sensors and DERM module.

As you can see this takes some looking into, but it should be a braided ground strap that ties from the bell housing to the chassis. The chassis location (G102) should be the ground location you want. From the schematic but not having seen it, it appears to be one continuous strap. Locating it may be no more than following the braided strap off the bell housing. I keep looking to assist here. If someone else knows that would be helpful.

brb ... more

 

Ok, I checked my codes. The code is a 13, also the door ajar light works fine when I open the door w/engine running.
I really appreciate all your help!!!!

 

The #38 fuse is good, but the cruise control fuse was blown. Going to have to wait till tomorrow to replace that one. I will check the ground out on saturday.

 

Excellent were narrowing it down. I'm going to start thru the charts shortly. You can take the Heated Mirror 5A (top row right #5) and put it in the Cruise 5A spot. Cruise powers the Cruise Engage Switch, Low Tire Pressure Warning Module, and Daytime Running Lts (canada).

G102 ground is mounted to the LH frame rail, below Battery.

Couple more that I mention in the description of the logic flow. The first ground S213 (LH Door Adjar Switch, LH Door Key Switch, Central Control Module CCM, Turn/Hazard Switch, Tone Generator, Data Link Connector (DLC)) is at the I/P Harness, near base of Steering Column. Remember these are black/white wires.

The next one in the series is S235, (transmission position switch, seat belt switch, fuel pump, cruise control module, RH door key switch, and RH door adjar switch) is at the I/P Harness, near LH side of Passenger Glove Compartment.

Lastly, is C237 which is behind RH side of of I/P (Instrument Panel). This is a 23-way metri pack connector. (Big connector 23 pins)

 

That is a status code, and expected since you said you don't have a valid transmitter.

 

Let me know what you drink and it's yours.

 

LOL no problem don't worry about it. If you want a rather detailed explanation of how the whole system works let me know, I can get that for you. Its rather interesting.

Just so you have an understanding of the signals the PKE Receiver processes we have the following: Pin A1 is the ground, A8 is the battery (solid state) and ties to the RDO BATT fuse 5 A, (orange wire) then from the fuse goes to the battery, B6 is the Program Request Input and is a data line to the CCM (central control module), B1 is the ARM UTD Output a yellow wire that connects to the CCM ARM UTD Input (so its a data line), B7 is the UTD Status Input Dk Green wire connects to CCM UTD Status Output (data line), A4 Key In Ignition Input Tan wire to CCM Key In Ignition Input (data) it T-off's that Tan wire to the Key In Ignition Switch, and E Brown wire to Hatch Release Switches. Next bank is Pin A which is the Power Unlock Pass Through it routes to the LH Door Lock Switch (blk/white) [pin c of the door lock switch] {Note when energized this routes signal data through both LH and RH Door on to some solid state circuitry and out to the Diagnostic Enable Input Pin B5 on the Receiver which is the yellow wire going to the DLC (the Pin H you grounded to get the diagnostic codes)}, B is LH Door a Tan wire to the CCM Unlock Input, H RH Door gray/black wire to the RH Door Lock Motor, Pin G connects to Pin D which is the signal for Lock All Doors Pass Through (a function) which routes to the CCM Lock Input, Pin F is the Battery Input it routes power to the RH Door Lock Switch, LH Door Lock Switch and is protected by the POWER LOCK 20A Fuse, A5 is the Ignition Input Red wire to the PKE Fuse 5A then to the Ignition, Pin C is the Indicator Control a Black/Orange wire routes to the Passive Keyless Entry Indicator lamp on the DIC.

Next bank is A3 Return and A2 Feed which is I/O data from the Driver's Door Antenna, B4 is a shield drain of A3/A2, B3 is the Drain for the Rear Antenna (coupe) or Passenger Door Antenna (vert) also these two Return and Feeds tie into the same wires as A3 A2, A6 is LH Door Ajar Input Blk/Yellow wire to the CCM LH Door Ajar Input along the way it T-s to the LH Door Ajar Switch (open/close door switch sends a signal to both inputs), A7 RH Door Ajar Input Lt Grn wire to CCM LH Door Key Switch Input (Disarms UTD) and also T's to the LH Door Key Switch.

Last bank B7 UTD Status Input Dk Grn wire to CCM UTD Status Output.

I know that seems like a lot but that gives you an understanding of the mystery to this box (Receiver). One thing I would note is that Pin C Indicator Control (Blk/Orange) is the signal to the PKE DIC lamp. In your case something is telling the system to power that signal all the time.

One thing that comes to mind during all this is that perhaps the PKE lamp being on could mean the system was armed, and now the receiver hasn't heard from the coded transmitter in an extended time period and is in one of the four modes of the PKE, that is "Transmitter Not in Range/Receiver Asleep" and the other "Transmitter Not in Range/Receiver Awake." Not trying to over think the problem, but it never details symptoms or user indications of either mode. So I was thinking on lines that its stuck in the second mode so its turning on the lamp. Perhaps indicating a code present which was the Transmitter not in range code you got.

I'm thinking and to move further in diagnostics of PKE you need the transmitter (FOB) to proceed. But in that case with a valid transmitter (programmed to your receiver) the PKE lamp may then go out.

What do you think?

 

Sounds valid, I got a new fob but cannot get it to program. I press the trip/odm twice and hold the fuel info button, but the PKE light never comes on.

 

There's more to it that just that sequence. Transmitter out of range, key to RUN position, Trip/Odo push-release, Trip/Odo pushed again and held for 5 seconds, within 5 seconds push and hold the Fuel Info for 10 seconds. The PKE lamp will come on continously, turn key to Lock position but leave key in, the PKE lamp starts flashing, bring transmitter into range, once its ID has been read the lamp will remain steady (as long as it is in range, if it goes out of range the PKE lamp will start flashing again). You can remove the key. Its programmed.

Note while the system is waiting for the transmitter to program, the PKE lamp will flash the number of transmitters to be programmed. once for the first transmitter, twice for the second and so on.

If it still will not program then that gives me a start on the chart.

 

Awe, didnt know you had to hold the trip/odm button for 5 sec the 2nd time. Thanks ALOT!!!