The message panel on my 93, which has the ZO7 package, indicated that the Service Ride Control need attention. I took my Vette to a Chevy dealer and they ran a diagonistic test and came up with two codes. Code 22 right rear inop, and code 34 rear OUT of position. They said that this shock and actuator needed replaced. I am not questioning them, but want to know if I can purchase the parts and
can this work be done my me. Their cost to me was nearly $2000. a
little too much for my pocket book

 

I believe you can have the shocks rebuilt by blisten for $200 each, if they need it. (are they leaking?) Not sure what the actuators cost, pull them and see if they are working or of the little gear in them is stripped.

I havn't done shocks on a C4, but I believe it's pretty straight forward.

 

I replaced my entire suspension system for less than that. Installed a sport suspension kit that included leaf, sway bars, shocks, bushings etc. a complete makeover.

 

You can buy the shocks new for ~$200. The actuator (if you can find a new one) is going to be expensive. I believe I've heard $300-$400. You can try ebay for used ones but they go for ~$100 and they're already between 10 and 15 years old, making their continued longevity suspect.

Replacing the shock and actuator is pretty easy.

 

The code 34 (right shock) usually indicates a broken gear on the top of the shock. The 22 is most likely a bad actuator. Bilstein will repair that and do a rebuild for anywhre from $100 to $140 depending on the condition of the shock rod. You can easily check the actuator by swapping it to the left rear, clear the codes and see if you get a Code 21.

You can check the codes yourself by jumping pin A to pin C i=on the ALDL. These pins are in the upper row and labeled right to left :
E D C B A A paper clip works fine. Insert the clip, turn the ignition to RUN (don't start the engine) and count the flashes on the SRC light in the DIC Codes start with a "!2" which is a start code sequence, then any trouble codes are flashed followed by another "12" to end the sequence. Each value is repeated three times before going to another code.

Code 12 is blink blink-blink pause blink blink-blink pause blink blink-blink

So a code 22 is pairs of "blink-blink" done three times and so on. You can clear the SRC codes by grounding pin C for two seconds and doing it three times. Also note that a Code 23 will be set if you cycle the ignition switch three times without driving the vehicle.

Call Bilstein at 1-800-537-1085 in Poway CA. Ask for Bill or Jack in the tech dept regarding Corvette shock rebuilding. I had read in another post that Bilstein has actuators available so you might want to ask about that.

The rear shocks are not hard to remove at all. Raise the car and remove the rear wheel. Lift the suspension at the bearing carrier and remove the lower shock nut. Remove the two bolts holding the upper shock mount and pull the shock out from the lower rod and lower it down. Unplug the actuator but be careful to not let the wire harness slide back into the hole!! Use a wire tie to hold it in place.

Install is just a reverse of the removal. Torque the bottom nut to 60 ft-lbs and the top bolts to 35. This should be done with the suspension at ride height, so once the shock is in place, raise the suspension and torque the bolts.

 

Im having selective ride control problems with my 95 also. I was getting out of postion and time out codes for all 4 shocks. After taking everything apart i realized that all 4 shocks were leaking oil and the little gear on top was broke so I replaced them all with new (I cant remember the store but i found the set of 4 for like $600) It was an online shock store. I inspected the actuators.. 3 of 4 had the little nylon gear inside broke. The only place i could find new ones was Chevrolet for $500++. I opted for used ones off Ebay for about $100 each. I reasembled everything and reset the codes. Now... i get timed out code on all 4 wheels.. ((.. i thought maybe the new shocks were a little stiff so i drove the car for a few weeks to loosen them and tryed to clear the codes.. no luck... Ive read that with a lot of c4 problems like this are bad grounds.. thats where im looking next.. Or maybe i got the actuators back on in wrong postions?? anyone have as much trouble with this as me???... jeff

 

I just replaced my right front actuator on Sun(3/01). The plastic gears were broken inside the actuator. Forum member "Hooked On Vettes" provided me with a web site that carries the OEM actuator(new) for $250.00. Go to http://www.shox.com. GM wanted $628.00 & Mid America wanted $349.00. My shocks were fine. Why would anyone make plastic gears to turn metal teeth on a shock?

 

good tip on the site (sorry not trying to pirate the thread) I have fx-3 as well, inresponse to your question, planned obsolsence! really they probably had problems using metal maybe with worse results who knows thanks for a good link