Garage Ground Breaking
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 9,600
Likes: 88
From: Springfield PA
Philly 'Burbs Events Coordinator
Here's somethings to consider, speaking from experience.
2X6 construction is overkill just for more insulation (IMHO).
Make your ceiling height at least 12' 6" on one side for a future lift.
On the non 12' side make a storage loft.
Dig out the floor so you have cement piers on the 12' side to help hold a lift. (I dug 6 so I could go 2 or 4 post lift, went with a 2 post)
Run three 1 1/2" conduits into the house.
One for electric service
One for phone, cable, network, security
One just for spare
Run 2 1/2" CPVC lines for water, one to use and one for a spare.
Run a gas line if you have gas.
Don't heat with a portable, install a gas (use propane if no gas) hot air heater. It will warm up the garage fast. I installed one, the heater cost about $400 and I spent another $600 for ducts and misc. Install a programmable thermostat. Set it up for 4 times a day at 45 degress. That way when you turn up the heat you don't have to remember to turn it down! Plus with a forced air system A/C can be added in the future.
Install a camera on the outside of the garage, connect it to a video input on you TV inside the garage so you can see who's coming in the winter when the doors are closed. You can also split the camera signal and connect it to a TV inside the house, run an extra coax for this.
If you have a home computer network run a CAT5, even if you don't run it.
Run several multi conductors in conduit #2 for phone and security.
Run some speaker wires.
Plan your lighting and install ceiling outlets so if a light fixture goes bad it's easy to replace. Set up your lighting so it's on 2 or 3 switches.
Plan your electric and don't skimp on outlets. Think about one of those multi outlets that are on a retractable cord and plan to install between the doors. It great for when you need an extention cord inside or outside.
If you plan you need 6 breakers, buy a 12 slot panel.
I used X10 switches for the exterior lights and bought an X10 controller for the house. That way I could set them up on a timer and control them from the house. (I have other X10 devices in the house)
I had ran a 3/4 PVC line from my shed down in the concrete into the garage for air. Don't do that, being in the ground the line accumulated moisture and PVC although rated well above the PSI can be unsafe due to oils, fitting glue break down. Plus air lines should be run high with a drop past the air hose connections with a drain valve. I just redid mine in 1/2" copper and ran it high with the drops and valves.
Set up the air so the compressor is in a shed outside the garage, run a conduit (in the cement) for the electric. Use a big enough conduit for a separate compressor circuit and a separate shed lighting/outlet circuit.
Plan for a shed. You can buy a 8X10 Sears metal one for cheap. Plan so when the garage floor is poured they pour a pad for the shed. A shed is great to keep all the lawn and garden stuff out of the garage!
I used drywall on the walls. I installed 5/4 PT decking as a baseboard before the drywall then installed the drywall on top of that. The bottom edge of the drywall (resting on top the 5/4) got a plastic J channel on it.
Have the contractor put in a moisture barrier below the floor.
DO NOT use UCoatIT, the product sucks and so does their support. Rustoluem has a nice industrial product. Not the HDepot line, you have to go to MAB to get this.
That about all I can think of right now, here's a link to some of my pictures: http://www.garagejunkies.net/showthread.php?t=177
Here's a site you need to have a good look at: http://www.garagejunkies.net/index.php?
2X6 construction is overkill just for more insulation (IMHO).
Make your ceiling height at least 12' 6" on one side for a future lift.
On the non 12' side make a storage loft.
Dig out the floor so you have cement piers on the 12' side to help hold a lift. (I dug 6 so I could go 2 or 4 post lift, went with a 2 post)
Run three 1 1/2" conduits into the house.
One for electric service
One for phone, cable, network, security
One just for spare
Run 2 1/2" CPVC lines for water, one to use and one for a spare.
Run a gas line if you have gas.
Don't heat with a portable, install a gas (use propane if no gas) hot air heater. It will warm up the garage fast. I installed one, the heater cost about $400 and I spent another $600 for ducts and misc. Install a programmable thermostat. Set it up for 4 times a day at 45 degress. That way when you turn up the heat you don't have to remember to turn it down! Plus with a forced air system A/C can be added in the future.
Install a camera on the outside of the garage, connect it to a video input on you TV inside the garage so you can see who's coming in the winter when the doors are closed. You can also split the camera signal and connect it to a TV inside the house, run an extra coax for this.
If you have a home computer network run a CAT5, even if you don't run it.
Run several multi conductors in conduit #2 for phone and security.
Run some speaker wires.
Plan your lighting and install ceiling outlets so if a light fixture goes bad it's easy to replace. Set up your lighting so it's on 2 or 3 switches.
Plan your electric and don't skimp on outlets. Think about one of those multi outlets that are on a retractable cord and plan to install between the doors. It great for when you need an extention cord inside or outside.
If you plan you need 6 breakers, buy a 12 slot panel.
I used X10 switches for the exterior lights and bought an X10 controller for the house. That way I could set them up on a timer and control them from the house. (I have other X10 devices in the house)
I had ran a 3/4 PVC line from my shed down in the concrete into the garage for air. Don't do that, being in the ground the line accumulated moisture and PVC although rated well above the PSI can be unsafe due to oils, fitting glue break down. Plus air lines should be run high with a drop past the air hose connections with a drain valve. I just redid mine in 1/2" copper and ran it high with the drops and valves.
Set up the air so the compressor is in a shed outside the garage, run a conduit (in the cement) for the electric. Use a big enough conduit for a separate compressor circuit and a separate shed lighting/outlet circuit.
Plan for a shed. You can buy a 8X10 Sears metal one for cheap. Plan so when the garage floor is poured they pour a pad for the shed. A shed is great to keep all the lawn and garden stuff out of the garage!
I used drywall on the walls. I installed 5/4 PT decking as a baseboard before the drywall then installed the drywall on top of that. The bottom edge of the drywall (resting on top the 5/4) got a plastic J channel on it.
Have the contractor put in a moisture barrier below the floor.
DO NOT use UCoatIT, the product sucks and so does their support. Rustoluem has a nice industrial product. Not the HDepot line, you have to go to MAB to get this.
That about all I can think of right now, here's a link to some of my pictures: http://www.garagejunkies.net/showthread.php?t=177
Here's a site you need to have a good look at: http://www.garagejunkies.net/index.php?
Team Owner
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 27,818
Likes: 8
From: CT
How've you been Chuck? Quite a project you're taking on eh?
For lighting when the time comes...you might want to look in to newer, more efficient fluroescents. The warehouse I go to for ac delco and motorcraft parts recently had more efficient fluro's installed and God in the heavens they're bright. One bulb is as powerful as five mercury vapor lights. I took the name of the electric company who installed them...so let me know if you want to look in to that.
How's everything else? Car ripped apart(mods) or is it intact.
Car show season will soon be upon us...and with any luck, I'll have a 'vette[C5-coupe] again soon.
Take care.
For lighting when the time comes...you might want to look in to newer, more efficient fluroescents. The warehouse I go to for ac delco and motorcraft parts recently had more efficient fluro's installed and God in the heavens they're bright. One bulb is as powerful as five mercury vapor lights. I took the name of the electric company who installed them...so let me know if you want to look in to that.
How's everything else? Car ripped apart(mods) or is it intact.
Car show season will soon be upon us...and with any luck, I'll have a 'vette[C5-coupe] again soon.
Take care.
Racer
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 398
Likes: 1
From: Kelowna BC
Originally Posted by Rex Ruby
Here's somethings to consider, speaking from experience.
2X6 construction is overkill just for more insulation (IMHO).
Make your ceiling height at least 12' 6" on one side for a future lift.
On the non 12' side make a storage loft.
Dig out the floor so you have cement piers on the 12' side to help hold a lift. (I dug 6 so I could go 2 or 4 post lift, went with a 2 post)
Run three 1 1/2" conduits into the house.
One for electric service
One for phone, cable, network, security
One just for spare
Run 2 1/2" CPVC lines for water, one to use and one for a spare.
Run a gas line if you have gas.
Don't heat with a portable, install a gas (use propane if no gas) hot air heater. It will warm up the garage fast. I installed one, the heater cost about $400 and I spent another $600 for ducts and misc. Install a programmable thermostat. Set it up for 4 times a day at 45 degress. That way when you turn up the heat you don't have to remember to turn it down! Plus with a forced air system A/C can be added in the future.
Install a camera on the outside of the garage, connect it to a video input on you TV inside the garage so you can see who's coming in the winter when the doors are closed. You can also split the camera signal and connect it to a TV inside the house, run an extra coax for this.
If you have a home computer network run a CAT5, even if you don't run it.
Run several multi conductors in conduit #2 for phone and security.
Run some speaker wires.
Plan your lighting and install ceiling outlets so if a light fixture goes bad it's easy to replace. Set up your lighting so it's on 2 or 3 switches.
Plan your electric and don't skimp on outlets. Think about one of those multi outlets that are on a retractable cord and plan to install between the doors. It great for when you need an extention cord inside or outside.
If you plan you need 6 breakers, buy a 12 slot panel.
I used X10 switches for the exterior lights and bought an X10 controller for the house. That way I could set them up on a timer and control them from the house. (I have other X10 devices in the house)
I had ran a 3/4 PVC line from my shed down in the concrete into the garage for air. Don't do that, being in the ground the line accumulated moisture and PVC although rated well above the PSI can be unsafe due to oils, fitting glue break down. Plus air lines should be run high with a drop past the air hose connections with a drain valve. I just redid mine in 1/2" copper and ran it high with the drops and valves.
Set up the air so the compressor is in a shed outside the garage, run a conduit (in the cement) for the electric. Use a big enough conduit for a separate compressor circuit and a separate shed lighting/outlet circuit.
Plan for a shed. You can buy a 8X10 Sears metal one for cheap. Plan so when the garage floor is poured they pour a pad for the shed. A shed is great to keep all the lawn and garden stuff out of the garage!
I used drywall on the walls. I installed 5/4 PT decking as a baseboard before the drywall then installed the drywall on top of that. The bottom edge of the drywall (resting on top the 5/4) got a plastic J channel on it.
Have the contractor put in a moisture barrier below the floor.
DO NOT use UCoatIT, the product sucks and so does their support. Rustoluem has a nice industrial product. Not the HDepot line, you have to go to MAB to get this.
That about all I can think of right now, here's a link to some of my pictures: http://www.garagejunkies.net/showthread.php?t=177
Here's a site you need to have a good look at: http://www.garagejunkies.net/index.php?
2X6 construction is overkill just for more insulation (IMHO).
Make your ceiling height at least 12' 6" on one side for a future lift.
On the non 12' side make a storage loft.
Dig out the floor so you have cement piers on the 12' side to help hold a lift. (I dug 6 so I could go 2 or 4 post lift, went with a 2 post)
Run three 1 1/2" conduits into the house.
One for electric service
One for phone, cable, network, security
One just for spare
Run 2 1/2" CPVC lines for water, one to use and one for a spare.
Run a gas line if you have gas.
Don't heat with a portable, install a gas (use propane if no gas) hot air heater. It will warm up the garage fast. I installed one, the heater cost about $400 and I spent another $600 for ducts and misc. Install a programmable thermostat. Set it up for 4 times a day at 45 degress. That way when you turn up the heat you don't have to remember to turn it down! Plus with a forced air system A/C can be added in the future.
Install a camera on the outside of the garage, connect it to a video input on you TV inside the garage so you can see who's coming in the winter when the doors are closed. You can also split the camera signal and connect it to a TV inside the house, run an extra coax for this.
If you have a home computer network run a CAT5, even if you don't run it.
Run several multi conductors in conduit #2 for phone and security.
Run some speaker wires.
Plan your lighting and install ceiling outlets so if a light fixture goes bad it's easy to replace. Set up your lighting so it's on 2 or 3 switches.
Plan your electric and don't skimp on outlets. Think about one of those multi outlets that are on a retractable cord and plan to install between the doors. It great for when you need an extention cord inside or outside.
If you plan you need 6 breakers, buy a 12 slot panel.
I used X10 switches for the exterior lights and bought an X10 controller for the house. That way I could set them up on a timer and control them from the house. (I have other X10 devices in the house)
I had ran a 3/4 PVC line from my shed down in the concrete into the garage for air. Don't do that, being in the ground the line accumulated moisture and PVC although rated well above the PSI can be unsafe due to oils, fitting glue break down. Plus air lines should be run high with a drop past the air hose connections with a drain valve. I just redid mine in 1/2" copper and ran it high with the drops and valves.
Set up the air so the compressor is in a shed outside the garage, run a conduit (in the cement) for the electric. Use a big enough conduit for a separate compressor circuit and a separate shed lighting/outlet circuit.
Plan for a shed. You can buy a 8X10 Sears metal one for cheap. Plan so when the garage floor is poured they pour a pad for the shed. A shed is great to keep all the lawn and garden stuff out of the garage!
I used drywall on the walls. I installed 5/4 PT decking as a baseboard before the drywall then installed the drywall on top of that. The bottom edge of the drywall (resting on top the 5/4) got a plastic J channel on it.
Have the contractor put in a moisture barrier below the floor.
DO NOT use UCoatIT, the product sucks and so does their support. Rustoluem has a nice industrial product. Not the HDepot line, you have to go to MAB to get this.
That about all I can think of right now, here's a link to some of my pictures: http://www.garagejunkies.net/showthread.php?t=177
Here's a site you need to have a good look at: http://www.garagejunkies.net/index.php?
As far as the giprock, I used 1/2" plywood. Would not do it anyother way. A little expensive, but you can put whatever you want where ever you want.
Fred
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 1,135
Likes: 23
From: Joplin, MO, USA
Thank you all for the ideas-today I built rafters for the addition on my garage-making room for the C5. Of course, I'm going to keep the C4, probably not a smart financial move, but what the heck!
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 1,828
Likes: 214
From: Charlestown IN
Cruise-In V Veteran
Great Garage!! Any garage is great. Big little thick thin, anything beats freezing or laying on rock. I built a 30x40 and it's too small. The only things I made sure of were 10' side walls and a door in the back so I can pull all the way thru, when it's blocked in by something else I'm working on. I have a lift in there now and the 10' walls are plenty. There's not much insulation in it yet, I add it as money allows. I use a K burning torpedo heater and it works well. Gets pretty cold here in Indiana. I'm not going for a "buisness suit" environment right now. Just don't wanna lay on rock or bust my fingers in the bitter cold every 5 seconds. You'll love whatcha got. 
Corvette Stories
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Top 10 Most Expensive Corvettes Ever Sold on Bring A Trailer
Brett Foote
10 Things Every Corvette Owner Needs (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
8 Most "Only Corvette Owners Understand" Quirks and Problems
Pouria Savadkouei
10 Reasons the C6 Z06 is Still A Performance Benchmark After 20 Years
Joe Kucinski
How Much Horsepower Every Corvette Engine "LOST" in 1972
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 DOs and DON'Ts for Protecting Your Convertible Top!
Michael S. Palmer
Top 10 Most Explosive Corvettes Ever Made: Power-to-Weight Ratio Ranked!
Joe Kucinski
150 hp to 1,250 hp: Every Corvette Generation Compared by the Specs That Matter
Joe Kucinski
8 Coolest Corvette Pace Cars (and Replicas) of All Time
Verdad Gallardo
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 3,219
Likes: 1
From: Somerset Co, NJ
Wow, I just wish I had a garage, carport, anything! My C4 sits outside year round, I just put a car cover on it! No garage with this house, and probably cannot build one, due to the zoning, and other red tape 
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 3,219
Likes: 1
From: Somerset Co, NJ
Originally Posted by Rex Ruby
Here's somethings to consider, speaking from experience.
2X6 construction is overkill just for more insulation (IMHO).
Make your ceiling height at least 12' 6" on one side for a future lift.
On the non 12' side make a storage loft.
Dig out the floor so you have cement piers on the 12' side to help hold a lift. (I dug 6 so I could go 2 or 4 post lift, went with a 2 post)
Run three 1 1/2" conduits into the house.
One for electric service
One for phone, cable, network, security
One just for spare
Run 2 1/2" CPVC lines for water, one to use and one for a spare.
Run a gas line if you have gas.
Don't heat with a portable, install a gas (use propane if no gas) hot air heater. It will warm up the garage fast. I installed one, the heater cost about $400 and I spent another $600 for ducts and misc. Install a programmable thermostat. Set it up for 4 times a day at 45 degress. That way when you turn up the heat you don't have to remember to turn it down! Plus with a forced air system A/C can be added in the future.
Install a camera on the outside of the garage, connect it to a video input on you TV inside the garage so you can see who's coming in the winter when the doors are closed. You can also split the camera signal and connect it to a TV inside the house, run an extra coax for this.
If you have a home computer network run a CAT5, even if you don't run it.
Run several multi conductors in conduit #2 for phone and security.
Run some speaker wires.
Plan your lighting and install ceiling outlets so if a light fixture goes bad it's easy to replace. Set up your lighting so it's on 2 or 3 switches.
Plan your electric and don't skimp on outlets. Think about one of those multi outlets that are on a retractable cord and plan to install between the doors. It great for when you need an extention cord inside or outside.
If you plan you need 6 breakers, buy a 12 slot panel.
I used X10 switches for the exterior lights and bought an X10 controller for the house. That way I could set them up on a timer and control them from the house. (I have other X10 devices in the house)
I had ran a 3/4 PVC line from my shed down in the concrete into the garage for air. Don't do that, being in the ground the line accumulated moisture and PVC although rated well above the PSI can be unsafe due to oils, fitting glue break down. Plus air lines should be run high with a drop past the air hose connections with a drain valve. I just redid mine in 1/2" copper and ran it high with the drops and valves.
Set up the air so the compressor is in a shed outside the garage, run a conduit (in the cement) for the electric. Use a big enough conduit for a separate compressor circuit and a separate shed lighting/outlet circuit.
Plan for a shed. You can buy a 8X10 Sears metal one for cheap. Plan so when the garage floor is poured they pour a pad for the shed. A shed is great to keep all the lawn and garden stuff out of the garage!
I used drywall on the walls. I installed 5/4 PT decking as a baseboard before the drywall then installed the drywall on top of that. The bottom edge of the drywall (resting on top the 5/4) got a plastic J channel on it.
Have the contractor put in a moisture barrier below the floor.
DO NOT use UCoatIT, the product sucks and so does their support. Rustoluem has a nice industrial product. Not the HDepot line, you have to go to MAB to get this.
That about all I can think of right now, here's a link to some of my pictures: http://www.garagejunkies.net/showthread.php?t=177
Here's a site you need to have a good look at: http://www.garagejunkies.net/index.php?
2X6 construction is overkill just for more insulation (IMHO).
Make your ceiling height at least 12' 6" on one side for a future lift.
On the non 12' side make a storage loft.
Dig out the floor so you have cement piers on the 12' side to help hold a lift. (I dug 6 so I could go 2 or 4 post lift, went with a 2 post)
Run three 1 1/2" conduits into the house.
One for electric service
One for phone, cable, network, security
One just for spare
Run 2 1/2" CPVC lines for water, one to use and one for a spare.
Run a gas line if you have gas.
Don't heat with a portable, install a gas (use propane if no gas) hot air heater. It will warm up the garage fast. I installed one, the heater cost about $400 and I spent another $600 for ducts and misc. Install a programmable thermostat. Set it up for 4 times a day at 45 degress. That way when you turn up the heat you don't have to remember to turn it down! Plus with a forced air system A/C can be added in the future.
Install a camera on the outside of the garage, connect it to a video input on you TV inside the garage so you can see who's coming in the winter when the doors are closed. You can also split the camera signal and connect it to a TV inside the house, run an extra coax for this.
If you have a home computer network run a CAT5, even if you don't run it.
Run several multi conductors in conduit #2 for phone and security.
Run some speaker wires.
Plan your lighting and install ceiling outlets so if a light fixture goes bad it's easy to replace. Set up your lighting so it's on 2 or 3 switches.
Plan your electric and don't skimp on outlets. Think about one of those multi outlets that are on a retractable cord and plan to install between the doors. It great for when you need an extention cord inside or outside.
If you plan you need 6 breakers, buy a 12 slot panel.
I used X10 switches for the exterior lights and bought an X10 controller for the house. That way I could set them up on a timer and control them from the house. (I have other X10 devices in the house)
I had ran a 3/4 PVC line from my shed down in the concrete into the garage for air. Don't do that, being in the ground the line accumulated moisture and PVC although rated well above the PSI can be unsafe due to oils, fitting glue break down. Plus air lines should be run high with a drop past the air hose connections with a drain valve. I just redid mine in 1/2" copper and ran it high with the drops and valves.
Set up the air so the compressor is in a shed outside the garage, run a conduit (in the cement) for the electric. Use a big enough conduit for a separate compressor circuit and a separate shed lighting/outlet circuit.
Plan for a shed. You can buy a 8X10 Sears metal one for cheap. Plan so when the garage floor is poured they pour a pad for the shed. A shed is great to keep all the lawn and garden stuff out of the garage!
I used drywall on the walls. I installed 5/4 PT decking as a baseboard before the drywall then installed the drywall on top of that. The bottom edge of the drywall (resting on top the 5/4) got a plastic J channel on it.
Have the contractor put in a moisture barrier below the floor.
DO NOT use UCoatIT, the product sucks and so does their support. Rustoluem has a nice industrial product. Not the HDepot line, you have to go to MAB to get this.
That about all I can think of right now, here's a link to some of my pictures: http://www.garagejunkies.net/showthread.php?t=177
Here's a site you need to have a good look at: http://www.garagejunkies.net/index.php?
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 4,763
Likes: 1
From: Connectivette
Looks like I missed alot of suggestions over the weekend. I don't think A/C is practical since we don't even have it in the house. Heat on the other hand may be something to look into. We already have propane running through the house, I'll have to talk to the girlfriend about that one. It's raining today and I don't expect the footings to be poured today. However, the rest of the week looks nice so I expect some progress.
Hey Jay, Hey John,
The fleet is up and running. I did have the rear end out of the car for a new clutch pack and poly bushings. It's back together now and running fine. I had to leave the 'vette out in the snoe last week while I did the breaks on the truck. The truck is done now too.
Two 'vette........two covers..................Hmmmmmmmmmmmm
Hey Jay, Hey John,
The fleet is up and running. I did have the rear end out of the car for a new clutch pack and poly bushings. It's back together now and running fine. I had to leave the 'vette out in the snoe last week while I did the breaks on the truck. The truck is done now too.
Two 'vette........two covers..................Hmmmmmmmmmmmm