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Old May 12, 2005 | 02:36 PM
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I'm going to replace my warped rotors, and I'm trying to figure out if I should to the brake job myself or just pay for it. I think if the rotors are pressed on, then I'll have someone do it. But if they bolt on, I'll try to do it myself. Anyone have a how-to, and anyone know if they are pressed on?

Thanks!
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Old May 12, 2005 | 02:43 PM
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Originally Posted by jeverly
I'm going to replace my warped rotors, and I'm trying to figure out if I should to the brake job myself or just pay for it. I think if the rotors are pressed on, then I'll have someone do it. But if they bolt on, I'll try to do it myself. Anyone have a how-to, and anyone know if they are pressed on?

Thanks!
Rotors are held in place by the caliper/pads. they just slide on the spindle over the wheel studs once the calipers are removed.

It's a rather simple job to do the front pads. Depending on the year you have, the rears are a little more complicated if you have the parking brake shoes inside the rear rotors.

Do it yourself for the experience and save the $200.00 labor charge.
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Old May 12, 2005 | 02:49 PM
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Thanks for the response. As you can tell, I've never done a disc brake replacement job. For the record, I have a 96 LT-1 with the J55 brakes (I think all 96 models had the J55s)
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Old May 12, 2005 | 02:52 PM
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I'm not a gifted mechanic, but was able to do the front brakes on my 95 myself. If you have a shop manual, follow the instructions. You will need standard tools and 2 6" C clamps.
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Old May 12, 2005 | 03:03 PM
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Originally Posted by longhorn_C4
I'm not a gifted mechanic, but was able to do the front brakes on my 95 myself. If you have a shop manual, follow the instructions. You will need standard tools and 2 6" C clamps.
Why 2 clamps? I use one clamp, but I only do one caliper at a time.

If you lack a manual, any public library should have one, just to familiarize yourself with the general instructions.

If not available, here's a quick procedure;
Not sure about '96s, I have Girling calipers on mine, it requires a 14mm and 15mm wrench and/or socket to remove them-2 bolts each caliper, remove rotor, clean and install new rotor, compress the pistons back into the caliper with the clamp and the old brake pad against the piston, trash the old pads, insert new pads, re-attach the caliper.

Last edited by mikeb; May 12, 2005 at 03:12 PM.
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Old May 12, 2005 | 03:35 PM
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I did the brakes so many times in my old car that I could do the fronts in like 30 min. including taking the wheels off and putting them back on.

Owned the car for 6+ years. I did it atleast once a year, usually twice, cheapy autozone pads that wore quickly, but they had lifetime warranty, so I changed them at regular intervals with no out of pocket money.
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Old May 12, 2005 | 05:57 PM
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Prices vary quite a bit on pads and rotors. I want decent quality, but I also want value. I'm looking for stock-like performance - not really trying to upgrade the brakes. Anybody have suggestions on what brand I need to buy or where to buy it?

I'm going to start out doing the fronts only and see how I like the results.
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Old May 12, 2005 | 06:20 PM
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Before you continue with the rotors under the assumption they are warped. Here's a PDF article you may want to look over.

brake article
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Old May 12, 2005 | 06:23 PM
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Originally Posted by jeverly
Prices vary quite a bit on pads and rotors. I want decent quality, but I also want value. I'm looking for stock-like performance - not really trying to upgrade the brakes. Anybody have suggestions on what brand I need to buy or where to buy it?

I'm going to start out doing the fronts only and see how I like the results.
I went with Hawk HP I like them very well. Low dusting and good responsiveness.

If you can get a look at the pins on the front calipers, if they are pretty rusty or corroded you may want to order new pins and clips. You should order the two rear bolts as the service manuals calls for them not to be reused. They come pre-coated with thread prep.

Pin is 10140586 5.53 ea
Clip is 10132842 4.16 ea
Bolt is 14067559 .91 ea

About $20. total.

Last edited by 93JetJocky; May 12, 2005 at 06:27 PM.
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Old May 13, 2005 | 09:26 AM
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Interesting information... Based on that, I may just try to have the rotors turned instead of replacing them. I don't experience any problems braking at higher speed, I only feel it from 5 mph to 0 mph under steady, light braking. It feels like the car is "pulsing" to a stop.

I am going to try to get started on it this weekend - we'll see how it goes!
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Old May 13, 2005 | 09:43 AM
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Let us know how your problem is fixed! My car pulsates under breaking to. I've been planning to inspect the front rotors and lube the car while I was there. I've got the grease gun and garnet paper ready, just waiting on having enough time for the project. I've had the car jacked up and waiting for two weeks now!
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Old May 13, 2005 | 10:31 AM
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Originally Posted by 93JetJocky
Before you continue with the rotors under the assumption they are warped. Here's a PDF article you may want to look over.

brake article

OK, I've read the article, now what I thought I knew about brakes has been changed somewhat. Which pads should I use as replacements? I don't use my vette under hard driving conditions (no racing or auto-x). I want a pad with low dusting but good street characteristics. I am patiently waiting, no real hurry, pads are about 50% gone.

Jocky, are the part numbers you listed for the J55 brakes or are they for the standard or are they the same?

Last edited by teebee; May 13, 2005 at 10:35 AM.
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Old May 13, 2005 | 11:13 AM
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Originally Posted by 93JetJocky
Before you continue with the rotors under the assumption they are warped. Here's a PDF article you may want to look over.

brake article
Thats an interesting article, but I've never run across a problem of friction material deposits causing brake problems. Never!
One would think if that was the case of "a warped" rotor is would be obvious when the rotor was inspected.

A major cause of pulsating brakes is heat damaged rotors. Heat destroys anything.

A case in point my last DD had a shimmy when the brakes were applied at freeway speeds. I had the rotors turned and new pads installed the problem got worse.

Next step, new rotors and new pads, same problem.

3rd try, EBC slotted and dimpled rotors, new high performance pads.
80% of the problem was solved but not completely.

Getting disc brakes right is sometimes a real bear.

GM has good brake engineering in the Corvette and OEM parts and materials work well.
The Suburban on the other hand has really a strange brake feel.

Friction material deposits doesn't really make any sence. The next time the brakes were used the material would be "rubbed" off.

The best way to check for rotor imbalance is with a read out meter.
A sticking caliper piston can cause a shudder when breaking.

The purpose of turning a rotor is to give the new pads a break in with a clean surface. The pads will last longer with a new or turned rotor.

Personally I replace the fronts with new GM rotors. Everything wears out.
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Old May 13, 2005 | 11:21 AM
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I just had my rotors turned and am in the process of installing new pads. If autozone will ever get me my pads

Anyway the guy that turned my rotors asked me if I had any vibration while braking, I told him no. He then told me that I certainly should have, my rotors were "warped to ****."

He said that turning them was able to flatten them out. The thing is though that a little bit of runout on the rotor won't affect anything. The caliper "floats" around the disc. It is free to move back and forth along with the rotor. As such for you to ever feel it you would have to reach the absolute limit of this travel, which very hard to do. If the caliper were fixed then runout would be a very severe problem.
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Old May 13, 2005 | 01:49 PM
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Originally Posted by teebee1994
OK, I've read the article, now what I thought I knew about brakes has been changed somewhat. Which pads should I use as replacements? I don't use my vette under hard driving conditions (no racing or auto-x). I want a pad with low dusting but good street characteristics. I am patiently waiting, no real hurry, pads are about 50% gone.

Jocky, are the part numbers you listed for the J55 brakes or are they for the standard or are they the same?

Doesn't it warn against turning rotors?

I'm not sure what J55 brakes are, can you elaborate? Those are the pin, clip that goes on the pin, and the bolt for the rears. What ever the stock brake system is for a 93, but it gives you a starting point.

Before I would turn the rotors, I would install new pads, clean and flush the fluid system, and be sure to bed the new pads before using them. 20 stops from 30mph. You may find that is all that is needed to resolve the problem.
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Old May 13, 2005 | 05:18 PM
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Originally Posted by 93JetJocky
Doesn't it warn against turning rotors?

I'm not sure what J55 brakes are, can you elaborate? Those are the pin, clip that goes on the pin, and the bolt for the rears. What ever the stock brake system is for a 93, but it gives you a starting point.

Before I would turn the rotors, I would install new pads, clean and flush the fluid system, and be sure to bed the new pads before using them. 20 stops from 30mph. You may find that is all that is needed to resolve the problem.
The J55 option is the heavy duty brakes, 13" fronts, that the Z07 cars from 89-94 and became standard issue in 1995.
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Old May 19, 2005 | 09:21 PM
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Default rotors

problem i had and corrected was a couple things....one... as these rotors get older they get thinner as mine did...had them turned...warped in a couple days because of the thinner thickness and rust built up in the inner vents comming up from the center...two...some times the calipers get pitted from moisture inside the piston chambers, had one of mine was the culprit....honed and rebuilt, like new again. and something thats easy to overlook when were in a hurry....put em on the right side of the car !!!!!!!!!!
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Old May 20, 2005 | 09:40 PM
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I did all 4 rotors and pads over a weekend. It went easier than I thought. The problem was spending so much time cleaning up all the grime while I was at it. The calipers came off pretty easy, then the rotors slipped off the hubs. I was a little apprehensive at first about doing this, but after I saw how easy the first wheel was, the other 3 went pretty smooth. I used my Haynes and Chilton manual to go over procedures and torques, and that helped out a lot.

After cleaning up the area of grease and grime I put the new rotors on, calipers in place, and new brake pads.

All in all a pretty good, easy experience. And since the lines were not open, I did not have to bleed the brakes.

before:


After:


kdf
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Old May 20, 2005 | 11:05 PM
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Nice looking break job.

Not sure if anyone mentioned it earlier, but take the cap off of the brake fluid reservoir before compressing the pistons with the c-clamp. Take it easy here so not to shoot break fluid out of the reservoir onto something shiny.
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Old May 21, 2005 | 12:06 AM
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nice clean up.
for me since brakes are a safty issue i replace with new parts.
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