Rotor Question
Thanks!





Thanks!
It's a rather simple job to do the front pads. Depending on the year you have, the rears are a little more complicated if you have the parking brake shoes inside the rear rotors.
Do it yourself for the experience and save the $200.00 labor charge.









If you lack a manual, any public library should have one, just to familiarize yourself with the general instructions.
If not available, here's a quick procedure;
Not sure about '96s, I have Girling calipers on mine, it requires a 14mm and 15mm wrench and/or socket to remove them-2 bolts each caliper, remove rotor, clean and install new rotor, compress the pistons back into the caliper with the clamp and the old brake pad against the piston, trash the old pads, insert new pads, re-attach the caliper.
Last edited by mikeb; May 12, 2005 at 03:12 PM.
Owned the car for 6+ years. I did it atleast once a year, usually twice, cheapy autozone pads that wore quickly, but they had lifetime warranty, so I changed them at regular intervals with no out of pocket money.
I'm going to start out doing the fronts only and see how I like the results.
brake article
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
I'm going to start out doing the fronts only and see how I like the results.
If you can get a look at the pins on the front calipers, if they are pretty rusty or corroded you may want to order new pins and clips. You should order the two rear bolts as the service manuals calls for them not to be reused. They come pre-coated with thread prep.
Pin is 10140586 5.53 ea
Clip is 10132842 4.16 ea
Bolt is 14067559 .91 ea
About $20. total.
Last edited by 93JetJocky; May 12, 2005 at 06:27 PM.
I am going to try to get started on it this weekend - we'll see how it goes!





brake article
OK, I've read the article, now what I thought I knew about brakes has been changed somewhat. Which pads should I use as replacements? I don't use my vette under hard driving conditions (no racing or auto-x). I want a pad with low dusting but good street characteristics. I am patiently waiting, no real hurry, pads are about 50% gone.
Jocky, are the part numbers you listed for the J55 brakes or are they for the standard or are they the same?
Last edited by teebee; May 13, 2005 at 10:35 AM.
brake article
One would think if that was the case of "a warped" rotor is would be obvious when the rotor was inspected.
A major cause of pulsating brakes is heat damaged rotors. Heat destroys anything.
A case in point my last DD had a shimmy when the brakes were applied at freeway speeds. I had the rotors turned and new pads installed the problem got worse.
Next step, new rotors and new pads, same problem.
3rd try, EBC slotted and dimpled rotors, new high performance pads.
80% of the problem was solved but not completely.
Getting disc brakes right is sometimes a real bear.
GM has good brake engineering in the Corvette and OEM parts and materials work well.
The Suburban on the other hand has really a strange brake feel.
Friction material deposits doesn't really make any sence. The next time the brakes were used the material would be "rubbed" off.
The best way to check for rotor imbalance is with a read out meter.
A sticking caliper piston can cause a shudder when breaking.
The purpose of turning a rotor is to give the new pads a break in with a clean surface. The pads will last longer with a new or turned rotor.
Personally I replace the fronts with new GM rotors. Everything wears out.
Anyway the guy that turned my rotors asked me if I had any vibration while braking, I told him no. He then told me that I certainly should have, my rotors were "warped to ****."
He said that turning them was able to flatten them out. The thing is though that a little bit of runout on the rotor won't affect anything. The caliper "floats" around the disc. It is free to move back and forth along with the rotor. As such for you to ever feel it you would have to reach the absolute limit of this travel, which very hard to do. If the caliper were fixed then runout would be a very severe problem.
Jocky, are the part numbers you listed for the J55 brakes or are they for the standard or are they the same?
Doesn't it warn against turning rotors?
I'm not sure what J55 brakes are, can you elaborate? Those are the pin, clip that goes on the pin, and the bolt for the rears. What ever the stock brake system is for a 93, but it gives you a starting point.
Before I would turn the rotors, I would install new pads, clean and flush the fluid system, and be sure to bed the new pads before using them. 20 stops from 30mph. You may find that is all that is needed to resolve the problem.





I'm not sure what J55 brakes are, can you elaborate? Those are the pin, clip that goes on the pin, and the bolt for the rears. What ever the stock brake system is for a 93, but it gives you a starting point.
Before I would turn the rotors, I would install new pads, clean and flush the fluid system, and be sure to bed the new pads before using them. 20 stops from 30mph. You may find that is all that is needed to resolve the problem.
After cleaning up the area of grease and grime I put the new rotors on, calipers in place, and new brake pads.
All in all a pretty good, easy experience. And since the lines were not open, I did not have to bleed the brakes.
before:
After:
kdf
Nice looking break job.Not sure if anyone mentioned it earlier, but take the cap off of the brake fluid reservoir before compressing the pistons with the c-clamp. Take it easy here so not to shoot break fluid out of the reservoir onto something shiny.










