Anyone have any experience using either the OEM Urethane vs the Flex-Fit replica's?

I think I've decided to replace the nose of mine instead of having it repaired (someone before me looks like they ran the nose under something like a truck and damaged it). Then take the new nose have it painted and swap it out.

Thoughts?

 

Theres a repair kit. Its easy too use if your really handy with autobody repairs.

 

Actually I have the materials to repair it. This goes to the notion not to buy a car when its been raining and you can't see the body in detail. I figured once it was mine, it was mine and I'd deal with it later. Now the years have just flown by and this job is up at the top of the list.

Previously someone (won't even call them a body shop) repair what ever happened on the top center of the nose. It has a deep sand spot that was not feathered. It just keeps cracking open now. And the whole top of the nose is a really poor paint job. So it would first require removal and all the paint stripped. Then determine the extent of the damage and repair it with the 3M Adhesives for urethane. Then primed and painted. Even with the repair made properly, I'm with the notion that these vehicles have enough vibrations in them that it may just crack open again at some later date.

So, I'm narrowing my choices down to just buying a brand new nose (bumper) having it painted and then removing and installing it myself.

The urethanes are about half the price of the other Flex Fits and accordingly not suppose to warp like the urethane. Which is why I asked if anyone has any experience with the flex fit are they that much better then the OEM?

 

If your urethane bumper has sags or low spots, I would probably replace it if you want it done right. Urethane bumpers are pretty bad if they sit in the sun. If you want you want a more sturdy one, get the true-flex or a fiberglass one.

 

i also have a 93 and i know this doesn't answer your question but my oem is in good shape and has held it's form perfect. the rear could use new paint because of the fade on the top leading edge but thats the only problem. i think alittle flex is needed. just make sure either way that it is painted correctly.

 

Mine has just a little indention offset both sides from center. You can see it on an angle. What is on there now is really horrible the paint job has runs just off the seam to the hood and junk in the paint. Its the worst repair job I've seen. Probably done in someone's garage which is probably why it didn't show up on carfax. Anyway for one I can't believe I've let it go this long considering how particular I am.

OEM is about 290 from GMDirect plus shipping. Guess I need to give Chris a call tomorrow.

 

Hey JetJockey, Is it correct to assume your paint is original ?
It makes me wonder if you could get the new nose painted to match your original (faded?) paint on the fenders and hood.....I can't count the times my small projects like repairing the nose turned into a full body paint job....I guess you can tell I'm picky too....Good Luck!

 

Yes that is correct, with the exception of the top of the nose of the bumper. You can see a paint line (build-up) at the crease. It appears that they just taped off the hood and then that first crease line and painted just the top of the nose. Thought I had a picture, I'll have to look some more and post one.

The paint quality of the rest is very good, no real signs of fading. Matter of fact I just recently PC-DA's w/3M SMR the entire finish. I'm thinking they shouldn't have much trouble getting a close match.

 

91 up this doesn't seem to be a problem, waves that is