Antifreeze!
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 771
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From: Washington District of Columbia
Antifreeze!
I've had my '94 LT1 6 SPD for 5 years now. It has 49, 200 and some odd
miles. I have never had the ANTIFREEZE/COOLANT flushed or changed.
SHOULD THIS HAVE BEEN DONE?
Also, I have never changed or checked the TRANSMISSION FLUID in the "manual" 6 SPD. HOW IMPORTANT
IS THIS?
THANKS AGAIN GUYS.
miles. I have never had the ANTIFREEZE/COOLANT flushed or changed.
SHOULD THIS HAVE BEEN DONE?
Also, I have never changed or checked the TRANSMISSION FLUID in the "manual" 6 SPD. HOW IMPORTANTIS THIS?
THANKS AGAIN GUYS.
Pro
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 510
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From: crofton maryland
well i have never seen 11 year anti freeze before?? i mean you spent alot of money on your vette, adding coolant is a cheap thing to keep the inside of the engines clean and rust free. if you have the orange stuff keep it orange, whihc would be better for you since it lasts longer then the green.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 2,619
Likes: 1
From: Whidbey Island Washington
Originally Posted by Donne Trav
I've had my '94 LT1 6 SPD for 5 years now. It has 49, 200 and some odd miles. I have never had the ANTIFREEZE/COOLANT flushed or changed.
SHOULD THIS HAVE BEEN DONE? THANKS AGAIN GUYS.
SHOULD THIS HAVE BEEN DONE? THANKS AGAIN GUYS.
It is NOT A 3, 4, OR 5 YEAR (or longer) Coolant as originally claimed by GM and Texaco. There's class act litigation in the works re this matter. Check out these sites for more info. http://www.imcool.com/articles/antif...l-macs2001.htm and http://www.imcool.com/articles/antif...l-macs2001.htm GOOD LUCK, Bill
Team Owner
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 34,873
Likes: 487
From: Lacey WA RVN 68-69
NCM Sinkhole Donor
Not only would it be a good idea to have the cooling system flushed and replaced with new Dexcool, you should also carefully inspect the upper and lower radiator hoses for any cracks or soft areas. It would probably be a good idea to just replace them for peace of mind.
The fluid in the ZF should also be changed. Use either the GM ZF oil or the BMW Castrol motor oil in the correct viscosity.
If the car has never really had any preventative maintenance done, you should also do at a brake fluid flush with a good DOT3 or DOT4 fluid and change the gear oil in the differential. Use the gear oil weight as shown in the owner's manual and add two bottles of GM Positraction additive.
The fluid in the ZF should also be changed. Use either the GM ZF oil or the BMW Castrol motor oil in the correct viscosity.
If the car has never really had any preventative maintenance done, you should also do at a brake fluid flush with a good DOT3 or DOT4 fluid and change the gear oil in the differential. Use the gear oil weight as shown in the owner's manual and add two bottles of GM Positraction additive.
Last edited by c4cruiser; Jun 19, 2005 at 10:33 AM.
Advanced
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 79
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coolent color
I dashed out side to check the color on my 95 coolent and it is green which is, I believe correct. The level in the overflow tank is almost empty cold. I saw a thead which suggested overflow tank should be set at full to the hot setting when cold. As I always seem to run at 198 or 215 which I feel too hot would this extra coolent help or just get dumpted out. Thank you.
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Verdad Gallardo
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2002
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From: The reason time exists is so everything doesn't happen at once
Originally Posted by mike t
I dashed out side to check the color on my 95 coolent and it is green which is, I believe correct. The level in the overflow tank is almost empty cold. I saw a thead which suggested overflow tank should be set at full to the hot setting when cold. As I always seem to run at 198 or 215 which I feel too hot would this extra coolent help or just get dumpted out. Thank you.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 2,954
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From: Obama=death for America
If your overflow tank is near empty, fill it up to the first lower line with the same color that is in your radiator. Personally I prefer a 60/40 mixture of antifreeze/water (distilled). That little extra bit of antifreeze adds a bit of boilover and freeze protection.
As mentioned, change all fluids immediately. And don't forget about changing the oil. That is the single most important thing you can do for your car. And your air filter. If your plugs haven't been changed in a while or if you don't know when they have been changed last, do it at the same time as the fluid changes. And don't forget about your fuel filter. If you let that go too long, you'll strand yourself. Also change the clutch fluid.
As mentioned, change all fluids immediately. And don't forget about changing the oil. That is the single most important thing you can do for your car. And your air filter. If your plugs haven't been changed in a while or if you don't know when they have been changed last, do it at the same time as the fluid changes. And don't forget about your fuel filter. If you let that go too long, you'll strand yourself. Also change the clutch fluid.
Race Director
Joined: Mar 1999
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From: Stafford, Virginia Kittah, Kittah, Kittah...
Originally Posted by bdvdvh7
here we go with the dexcool orange again...
...and yes, i would flush out the system.
...and yes, i would flush out the system.
It has been in there too long and needs to be changed... As far as Dexcool goes, I'm not sure that's what it came filled with... My ex-wife's 94 Grand Am came with DexCool from the factory, but my 94 Eldorado didn't...
If it's got green, don't go to Orange... And it needs to be changed every 2 years...
I run Dexcool in my 96 Vette and 98 Eldorado... Never had a problem with either one...
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 2,491
Likes: 1
From: prescott AZ
I would use the new type of anti-freezes that recently came on the market that can be mixed with the green or dex types. I would do what I did and totally flush the system and use distilled water 50/50 with the new anti-freeze.
Really transmissions need to be flushed (4 speed or 6) at least every 20k miles because of all the bronze shavings/particles from synchronizer wear which are very hard on the bearings. Steel particles from gear wear is very hard on the synchros so if you want it to last change the fluid at least at 20k. Some car manufacturers like Mercedes realize that during the first couple of thousand miles as the metal parts mate and wear together that there are a lot of metal particles floating around it the diff, tranny, etc and recommend changing the fluid very early (2 and 3k).
My early Corvettes were sold with well over 100k miles and never needed any work because they were well maintained.
Change all fluids.
Really transmissions need to be flushed (4 speed or 6) at least every 20k miles because of all the bronze shavings/particles from synchronizer wear which are very hard on the bearings. Steel particles from gear wear is very hard on the synchros so if you want it to last change the fluid at least at 20k. Some car manufacturers like Mercedes realize that during the first couple of thousand miles as the metal parts mate and wear together that there are a lot of metal particles floating around it the diff, tranny, etc and recommend changing the fluid very early (2 and 3k).
My early Corvettes were sold with well over 100k miles and never needed any work because they were well maintained.
Change all fluids.
