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I bought a 1987 with EVERY option, plus an integrated Radar unit... go figure!
The Original Sticker says the following:
RPO L98
(tons of options in between)
and
Z51 Performance Handling Package
The total price, in 1987 dollars, was $32,267.00
Now, I love this car, but last night, actually at 2:30 this morning,I stopped at a store 2.5 miles from work, shut the car off, went in, and was back in the drivers seat in under 3 minutes. And...
...it would NOT start!
It cranked, turned over, etc. but acted like it was not getting any fuel... I read the manual and did the gas-to-the-floor thing... nothing.
I sat there for an hour, trying every 10 minutes or so. I open the hood and after about 10 minutes, tried it again... ZOOOOOM
Started right up...
Now, do any of you know if there is a fuel cut-off that was part of the anti-theft device(s)?
Happy to be home
Officer Bob
No expert here, but I think you said the starter was cranking and the engine wouldn't fire up. Is that the way the VATS works? From reading the linked thread, it sounds like the VATS prevents the starter from cranking.
Just a guess; fuel pump or fuel pump relay. My 87's fuel pump crapped out two years ago. (BTW, mine had a dealer installed Whistler in it, too.)
From: The land of 10,000 lakes ,Minnesota 89 coupe 6speed with 383 and 89 roadster 6speed bonestock with XXX low miles
Operation of the Theft Deterrent System is controlled by the Central Control Module (CCM). When an unauthorized attempt to enter the vehicle is detected, the CCM sounds an alarm by pulsating the horns (50 cycles/min.). To conserve battery power, the alarm shuts OFF after 3-7 minutes and rearms.
If an incorrect or improperly coded key is used to attempt to start the car, the cranking and fuel injection systems will be disabled.
Arming:
After IGN is turned OFF, the SYS may be armed at either open door by activating the power door lock switch to the LOCK position. When the last door is closed (after a 5 sec. delay), the SYS arms.
Disarming:
The oval head key,, inserted into the door lock cylinder and turned clockwise 90º. Once activated, the only way to shut the alarm OFF is to use the oval key and turn the lock 90º counterclockwise.
Cancelling:
To prevent arming after using the Door Lock Switch, the switch can be moved to the UNLOCK position before closing all doors, or by rotating the IGN switch to the RUN position, then back to LOCK. Doors may be locked manually with the door key, without arming the SYS.
Protective Switches:
The door and rear hatch switches (door hinge pillars and hatch opening), used for courtesy lighting and DOOR AJAR, will trigger the alarm if opened while the SYS in in the armed condition.
Each door lock cylinder is equipped with a tamper sensitive switch which wil trigger the alarm upon tampering (other than normal operation).
Cranking/Fuel Interrupt:
The passive (no active involvement by the operator) Cranking/Fuel Interrupt function prevents cranking and fuel delivery to the engine, when using any key other than the properly electronically coded IGN key. The Cranking/Fuel Interrupt SYS is independent of the alarm sys and provides protection efven if the alarm sys is defeated or the vehicle is left unlocked. Once the engine is turned OFF, the Cranking/Fuel Interrupt sets. If an imporper key is used, the CCM will reset for 2-4mins. and starting during this period will not be permitted even with the proper key.
Convertibles:
The GM Service Manual does not delineate between models. The only difference should be in that there is no hatchback protective switch. In all other respects the alarm will operate the same.
I bought a 1987 with EVERY option, plus an integrated Radar unit... go figure!
The Original Sticker says the following:
RPO L98
(tons of options in between)
and
Z51 Performance Handling Package
The total price, in 1987 dollars, was $32,267.00
Now, I love this car, but last night, actually at 2:30 this morning,I stopped at a store 2.5 miles from work, shut the car off, went in, and was back in the drivers seat in under 3 minutes. And...
...it would NOT start!
It cranked, turned over, etc. but acted like it was not getting any fuel... I read the manual and did the gas-to-the-floor thing... nothing.
I sat there for an hour, trying every 10 minutes or so. I open the hood and after about 10 minutes, tried it again... ZOOOOOM
Started right up...
Now, do any of you know if there is a fuel cut-off that was part of the anti-theft device(s)?
Happy to be home
Officer Bob
Have it checked out could be a leaking injector causing a flooded conditon.
When I had VAT problems, my starter never turned, it was like had a dead battery, or no battery. I think if it turns you have something else wrong.
This is true. When the vats acts up, motor will not crank. Like any other intermittant problem, it is hard to find until it acts up again. When this happens, check spark and fuel, this will narrow your search.
Definately NOT VATS. If the ecm does not recognize the key, it disables the starter relay as well as the fuel pump relay. (for 4 minutes)
Hook up a fuel pressure guage and try to re-create the problem you had before.
BTW. if you have a leaking injector it will be hard to start when warm. Fuel pressure should not drop more than a couple of psi in a couple minutes. If I remember correctly, fuel pressure should be somewhere around 40psi. That is for my '88. Yours may differ slightly.