Need Help With Fuel Gauge!!!!
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 435
Likes: 1
From: Worth IL
Need Help With Fuel Gauge!!!!
ok here is the problem last year I put the Vette away for
the winter,prep it all up full tank of gas with Stay-Bil, well
this spring when I took her out I drove her for about a week
and noticed that the gauge wasn't going down it stood on
full. someone said that the sending unit got stuck on full!!
Now how do I get this problem fixed???
any help will be greatly appreciated.
Poncho.
the winter,prep it all up full tank of gas with Stay-Bil, well
this spring when I took her out I drove her for about a week
and noticed that the gauge wasn't going down it stood on
full. someone said that the sending unit got stuck on full!!
Now how do I get this problem fixed???
any help will be greatly appreciated.
Poncho.
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 17,551
Likes: 26
From: El Paso Texas
Read my article in the tech section.....this is an easy fix. The contact and windings in the sending unit are glazed and not making contact.
If you want I can email you the tech tip article in MS Word format with pictures.
Simple, one hour fix.
If you want I can email you the tech tip article in MS Word format with pictures.
Simple, one hour fix.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 435
Likes: 1
From: Worth IL
Originally Posted by Frizlefrak
Read my article in the tech section.....this is an easy fix. The contact and windings in the sending unit are glazed and not making contact.
If you want I can email you the tech tip article in MS Word format with pictures.
Simple, one hour fix.
If you want I can email you the tech tip article in MS Word format with pictures.
Simple, one hour fix.
If you can send me a private massage I'll give you
my e-mail address.
Thanks, Poncho.
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 783
Likes: 2
From: Wake Forest, NC
St. Jude Donor '05
im having the same problem with my 94. Do i do the same thing?
And like Frizlefrak said, his article is in the tech section.
It's no big deal to pull the fuel pump/sending unit on C/4's they both come out as one piece. Sometimes, beyond just readjusting the sending unit, you may find that corrosion has pretty much destroyed the wires and it needs to be redone.
NAPA sells a wiring kit that they push with new fuel pumps that runs about $8. It has all the wiring in it you need to completely rewire the sending unit. (If it needs it.) If the sending unit is really gone, you'll have to replace it, but prepare yourself cause it will probably run you $300-$400 for the part. If I was going to the trouble of pulling the sending unit and trying to repair it, I'd probably change my fuel pump at the same time just for the heck of it. (about $60) and while I was at it, I'd put on a new fuel filter as well..
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 783
Likes: 2
From: Wake Forest, NC
St. Jude Donor '05
For you guys looking for the article and not knowing how to find it....
Go back to the Corvette Forum Home page. (If you don't know how to do this, click onthe picture of the C4 at the top of the page)
From the home page, click on the "TOOLS" pull down menu and highlight "TECH TIPS" and then move the cursor to the right and click on "C4".
You'll find the article labeeled "Fuel Sending Unit Repair" or something to that effect. Also, have a look at any article on fuel pump replacement... The motions are all teh same, so if you can find good pics for one, they'll work for the other...
Go back to the Corvette Forum Home page. (If you don't know how to do this, click onthe picture of the C4 at the top of the page)
From the home page, click on the "TOOLS" pull down menu and highlight "TECH TIPS" and then move the cursor to the right and click on "C4".
You'll find the article labeeled "Fuel Sending Unit Repair" or something to that effect. Also, have a look at any article on fuel pump replacement... The motions are all teh same, so if you can find good pics for one, they'll work for the other...
Racer
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 354
Likes: 0
Same problem with mine only that when the tank is empty (reserve) then the gauge shows empty and the reserve light comes on. Is this the same problem? Is it just me or the digital gauged C4's prone to problems? I have a long list of problems. example the fuel gauge, highbeam and flasher lights won't light up, speedometer faded on the top corner, oil temp gauges faded, temp controls on the digital hearter controls are glitchy and the radio buttons aren't working properly, is this all one problem? or is it all seperate? The car is an '88 so it is 17 years old. Any comments? 
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 17,551
Likes: 26
From: El Paso Texas
Originally Posted by HighOutput
Same problem with mine only that when the tank is empty (reserve) then the gauge shows empty and the reserve light comes on. Is this the same problem? Is it just me or the digital gauged C4's prone to problems? I have a long list of problems. example the fuel gauge, highbeam and flasher lights won't light up, speedometer faded on the top corner, oil temp gauges faded, temp controls on the digital hearter controls are glitchy and the radio buttons aren't working properly, is this all one problem? or is it all seperate? The car is an '88 so it is 17 years old. Any comments?
Your car sounds like there is a grounding issue on the cluster and some wiring harnesses. I would recommend you remove the cluster and clean all the electrical connections. Over the years, moisture and dirt collect and cause issues. I'm willing to bet it's a simple fix.
The faded portion of your speedometer is a bulb that's gone out.
Racer
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 354
Likes: 0
Originally Posted by Frizlefrak
The fuel gauges on C4 are inaccurate at best, and that's when they're working correctly. The contact and windings in the sending unit become glazed over time and don't make good contact.....next thing you know, the gauge is "stuck" in one position or the other, usually showing full. My tech article will show you how to remedy this in most situations.
Your car sounds like there is a grounding issue on the cluster and some wiring harnesses. I would recommend you remove the cluster and clean all the electrical connections. Over the years, moisture and dirt collect and cause issues. I'm willing to bet it's a simple fix.
The faded portion of your speedometer is a bulb that's gone out.
Your car sounds like there is a grounding issue on the cluster and some wiring harnesses. I would recommend you remove the cluster and clean all the electrical connections. Over the years, moisture and dirt collect and cause issues. I'm willing to bet it's a simple fix.
The faded portion of your speedometer is a bulb that's gone out.
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 17,551
Likes: 26
From: El Paso Texas
Originally Posted by HighOutput
I was also having trouble with my rad fan not cutting in. We were getting a small voltage running through the ground wire, so I installed another wire from the relay to the sensor and that works fine, but I guess that didn't solve my problem. It just looks like a pain to follow the wiring harness because everything is all together and it spiders everywere. I'm not much of an electrical guy. From what I can gather, there is a power wire making contact with the ground somewhere, does that make sense?
You should be able to unplug the wire from the switch located on the right cylinder head and ground it to make the fan come on. If it comes on when you ground the wire, but not when the engine hits 225, replace the switch.
Racer
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 354
Likes: 0
Originally Posted by Frizlefrak
If you're getting voltage through the ground wire, you may have a short somewhere. It might be worth your time to track it down and correct it....minor shorts drain batteries, major ones can cause fires. Few things will screw your day up like a burned Corvette.
You should be able to unplug the wire from the switch located on the right cylinder head and ground it to make the fan come on. If it comes on when you ground the wire, but not when the engine hits 225, replace the switch.
You should be able to unplug the wire from the switch located on the right cylinder head and ground it to make the fan come on. If it comes on when you ground the wire, but not when the engine hits 225, replace the switch.
