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We've got a code 36 in progress

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Old Sep 27, 2005 | 11:01 AM
  #1  
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Default We've got a code 36 in progress

I've had this code before on my 87. It has to do with the MAF sensor. It's come up twice in the past month or so, but after I read the code and check all of the connections and everything (which looks fine) and restart, the code has cleared. Relays are the next to check right? The code tripped this morning so I didn't have a chance to check the helms book yet.

What would be the cause for it coming on every once in a while?

I'm also getting a low coolant light coming on, but only after going downhill for a long time (or so it seems), but that's another story altogether.
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Old Sep 27, 2005 | 12:02 PM
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You have to look at the MAF burn off relay. It is behind the battery. It is either of those 2 relays, both relate to the MAF sensor.

About your low coolant light, mine used to come on a couple of days after I got my car. After I did a coolant flush and topped it off with a 50/50 coolant mix, it has never been on ever since.
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Old Sep 27, 2005 | 12:04 PM
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I had this on my '85 and it would shut down the engine. It would start up OK but would stall intermittently. The MAF sensor, which you can buy after market, is located at the neck of the air intake. It's held in with 2 hose clamps. It's basically 3 strands of fiber which senses the air intake and calibrates the engine, I think. Sounds like the sensors are bad or about to go south so just replace and it should clear the error. As I remember, the part wasn't cheap...well according to my mechani$.
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Old Sep 27, 2005 | 12:07 PM
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Originally Posted by k0rv3tt389
You have to look at the MAF burn off relay. It is behind the battery. It is either of those 2 relays, both relate to the MAF sensor.

About your low coolant light, mine used to come on a couple of days after I got my car. After I did a coolant flush and topped it off with a 50/50 coolant mix, it has never been on ever since.


Just did this on my car a few weeks ago. Got the relays (both the same part number) at NAPA for about $14 each. I replaced them both. No check engine light since.
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Old Sep 30, 2005 | 11:43 PM
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So now that I've put the new relays in, what should I expect difference wise? Other than the obvious engine light not showing up again. Assuming this was the problem, should it change the idle, smoothness of it, gas mileage, anything?
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Old Oct 1, 2005 | 12:44 AM
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Default

Originally Posted by PsychoNumber1
So now that I've put the new relays in, what should I expect difference wise? Other than the obvious engine light not showing up again. Assuming this was the problem, should it change the idle, smoothness of it, gas mileage, anything?
Nope. Nothing. Cept the codes go away. Remember if the engine starts run like crap the first thing to do is pull the connector on the MAF. If she drives OK then your a hero and you can pull codes when you get home.

Saves being towed home!

Watch it though. Lots of codes will point to the MAF. And sometimes its not the MAF. At 80+ bucks the MAF is not the first item to start part swapping. Read the Helms and go throught the trouble shoooting charts first.


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Old Oct 1, 2005 | 02:40 AM
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Originally Posted by JrRifleCoach
Nope. Nothing. Cept the codes go away. Remember if the engine starts run like crap the first thing to do is pull the connector on the MAF. If she drives OK then your a hero and you can pull codes when you get home.

Saves being towed home!

Watch it though. Lots of codes will point to the MAF. And sometimes its not the MAF. At 80+ bucks the MAF is not the first item to start part swapping. Read the Helms and go throught the trouble shoooting charts first.



Yeah, I know because this one time, my original 16 year old IAC was leaking some vacuum and air was getting sucked in the intake without passing thru my MAF, causing a code 33. Don't forget, bad IACs sometimes will cause your car to stall out intermittently when you let of the throttle.
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Old Oct 1, 2005 | 11:34 AM
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Originally Posted by PsychoNumber1
So now that I've put the new relays in, what should I expect difference wise? Other than the obvious engine light not showing up again. Assuming this was the problem, should it change the idle, smoothness of it, gas mileage, anything?
No difference if it was just the burn off function. There's a small wire in the MAF sensor that does the measuring. It has to be really clean to function properly. This wire get's super heated for a second to 'burn off' any contamination that might have got on it. If the computor doesn't see the 'burn off' function happen, the light comes on. I don't think that particular function affects how the engine runs at all as long as the MAF stays clean. jmo
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Old Oct 1, 2005 | 10:52 PM
  #9  
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anybody curious about what the insides of the relays look like? I was...





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Old Oct 1, 2005 | 11:45 PM
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Default MAF Relay tests?

Is there a way to test if the MAF Relays are good? I get a SES light with Code 36 about 1 time per year and then just swap out both the MAF Relays. Now I have about 6 of them laying around.
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Old Oct 2, 2005 | 01:16 AM
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I suppose you could follow the diagnosis chart in the shop manual, which I would have done it I had a voltmeter.
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Old Oct 2, 2005 | 07:11 AM
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Default

Originally Posted by k0rv3tt389
You have to look at the MAF burn off relay. It is behind the battery. It is either of those 2 relays, both relate to the MAF sensor.

About your low coolant light, mine used to come on a couple of days after I got my car. After I did a coolant flush and topped it off with a 50/50 coolant mix, it has never been on ever since.
Yup! I had the same problem. Replaced one and found that it was not the faulty one as I was still getting the light. I then switched them and the SES light still came on. I went to pick up another one to finally replace both and noticed that the light was no longer coming on. I guess I fixed it. Should I return the other one not needed, or should they both be replaced at the same time?
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Old Oct 2, 2005 | 11:13 AM
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It's recommended to replace BOTH relays at the same time-that's in most of the books I've read.
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