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Look on pass. side across from starter on frame rail (like indicated above), it should be round canister about 2-1/2" in diameter and about 3-1/2" long. I park my vet on a upward slope, block rear wheels and then jack up front end. This puts the filter at the same lever or higher than the tank. Next start the car and pull the fuel pump fuse from the fuse block and let the car run out of gas and die. There should be no or very little pressure in the line at this point. (Turn off the key now). Note that there should be a clamp that holds the filter to the frame rail. Remove the clamp. (PITA) Next, use two wrenches to remove the filter, one to hold the filter and the other to turn the nut on the line. Remove the old filter and install the new one. Be sure to note the flow direction as noted on the filter. I use the Fram G3727 on my 85. Tighten up the fittings, replace the fuel pump fuse and start the car. Check for leaks. You should be good.
You might loose some fuel when changing the filter, so use rags or a pan to catch the excess.
Many only change their filter once per year (based on how often they run their cars). I usually change mine between 10,000 and 15,000. I write the Odometer reading on the filter when I change to a new one as a reminder.
Good luck, should be about 1/2 - 3/4 hour job based on experience.
I found that picking up the little plastic tool to release the fuel lines at their quick connect points which made the job much easier. I released the lines after all the above was done, then pulled the whole thing down and out. Removed the filter from the lines and installed the new one then fed the whole assembly back up in there.
Tip, release the bracket first before you release any of the fuel lines. Keeps you from getting drenched in fuel while trying to get that bolt off.
Also manual suggested releasing the fasteners to the fuel lines along the rail back to the front of the rear wheel well. Makes it much easier to manipulate the assembly.
What everyone else said, and this is what it looks like if you want a better idea... Put your head under the car behind the passenger side wheel and slide under (if you can wothout lifting it) far enough to look at the engine side of teh frame rail... it's right there.
On my 85, it is located in the same place as others have described; Passenger side under the frame rail. Before I changed mine, I didn't remove any fuses or the gas cap. If I had known, I probably would have, because A LOT of fuel ran down my arms during the swap. Man did that burn. It's really not difficult to change. My car was on a lift which made it much easier, but it can be done on jacks.
From: Charlotte NC, behind someone going 10 under the speed limit
The best way I found was to jam a 5/8 line wrench up on the top fitting against the frame or exhaust and turn the whole fuel filter with the lower end of the filter's wrench flats, 13/16 i think. He didn't say coupe or vert, vertibles are much harder.
Like they all said. It is across from the starter. You will need a 21mm & a 16mm wrench( prefer to use LINE wrenches , but regular open end should work). Also a 10mm socket, small extension, & rachet. The 10mm is for the bolt that holds the strap in place( which holds the filter in place). The bolt is above the filter.
I didn't even have to jack up the car to do this. There is no shroud to take off.
Just stick the 21mm on the filter & use the 16mm to break the line loose from the filter. After both sides are broke loose. Remove the 10mm bolt securing the filter. Pull the filter down & then pull the lines out of it. Replace is just the opposite.
JUST remember. Attach the fuel lines to the new filter(attach but do not tighten all the way) BEFORE you secure the filter to the car. It is a PITA to try & get the lines lined up & tightened properly if the filter is already tightened down & you can not move it.
I use an ACDelco filter(or NAPA gold)