Mine sits in the garage but long enough for everything to get cold/cool before I start it up. Both the oil temp and water temp reads "LOW" when I first start it up and I never (well almost never) jump on it till both water and oil readings come off that "LOW" and start reading real temperatures. Water starts at 100, I think oil starts at 150.

 

I don't have to worry about the real low temps so I getb in and go. But I stay light on the pedal until the thermostat opens. That is two miles.

 

You really should let it idle until it comes up to operating temperature until you put any load on the engine.

That ensure that all metal components have expanded and the fit tolerances are where they should be.
It is a well known fact that most engine wear occurs at startup.
Poor lubrication and cold fit.....
BUT I usually can't wait that long.
I drive away at about 130, but keep the revs to about 2000 until I hit operating temp (190)

 

Idling takes too long to warm the catalytic converters and O2's up, uses too much gas, wastes time, and only useful to warm the inside of the car or defog the windshield(and its getting cold). I fire it up, wait 5-10 seconds and go, easy on the gas- usually under 2,000 rpm for the vette, until I see 140 degrees of engine temp, give or take 10 degrees. This is why we have 5w and 10w30 oils instead of SAE 30, so we can get going!

 

water temp means nothing wait till your oil temp is at operating temp before you excelerate to any high rpm's I think thats why they put a thermostat on cars to get the oil temp up...

 

As soon as the oil pressure is up to operating (so like what 5 seconds? ) level I'm off and running. I won't beat the **** out of it though until my oil is at least 150*.

 

Kinda like waking up and doing the 100 yard dash 5 seconds after you open your eyes would be better to stretch a lil but I don't care what the weight of your oil is doesnt really lubricate the internals of your motor to the desired protective way untill oil temp is at normal operating temp....Nothing wrong with babying it the 1st few miles without waiting but if you want to be good to your motor don't tach high rpm's till at least 170 or 180 oil temp just my humble opinion and every mechanic i've ever talked to......especially my harley mechanic

 

 

It's not so much an old man thing as it is an old car thing. Years ago when you had carburators and chokes it was wise to let the car warm up for a few minutes before driving it. The problem was if you just let it idle until it reached operating temps only the engine was warm. Everything else, trans, rear, suspension, was still cold.

With today's FI cars its better to just let it idle for a few seconds then drive it gently until all of the components have warmed up.

 

Not true. Oil does not have to hot/thin to lubricate properly. In fact, the hotter/thinner the oil is the less well it lubricates.
That's why oil coolers were invented.

Larry
code5coupe

 

I cannot agree that idling "uses too much gas." I've had to sleep in my truck ('90 4-Runner), and I let the engine run all night long with the A/C on so I could stay cool. I only used a little under 1/8th of a tank while napping for about 7 hours.

... just my $0.02.

 

I've always felt that oil pressure rather than coolant temp was the important indicator.

I figure by the time I buckle up, tune the radio and reach for the shifter the pressure will be up and I'm outta there.

 

Never had my 63 out of the garage in temps below freezing, but when it is around 40, my carberated 327 insists on a couple of minutes before it wants to hit the street - it is cold blooded. (my 63 Impala is the same way) - must be and "old car" thing.

With my newer "fuel injected" vehicles, I start them up and go.

 

usually the morning news has these stories and the driver usually dies of carbon monoxide....

 

Well with electronically managed engines, the program is designed to run the engine right at start, so your primary concern is instant oil pressure. With the oils we run unless the temps are extreme, oil should be flowing freely. Oil pressure should be there immediately after start. The question is what mode you want the engine operating it when start off.

When the ignition switch is turned to On before engaging the starter, the ECM energizes the fuel pump relay for two seconds (establishes proper pressure). The ECM then checks the engine coolant temp ECT, throttle position TP and manifold absolute pressure MAP sensors to determine the proper air/fuel ration for starting. (This ranges from 1.5:1 at -36C(-33F) to 14.7:1 at 94C (201F) running temp. The ECM controls the amount of fuel delivered in the starting mode by changing how long the injectors are energized (pulsed).

The Run mode of the program has two conditions Open loop and Closed loop. When the engine is first started, and engine speed is above 400 rpm, the system goes into Open loop operation. The ECM ignores the signal from the O2s and calculates the air/fuel ration based on inputs from the ECT and MAP sensors.
The system stays in Open loop mode until the following are met:

- The O2s have varying voltage output, showing they are hot enough to operate properly. (315C (600F) O2 operating temp for the O2s)
- The ECT sensor is above a specified temperature about 40C (104F)
- A specific amount of time has elapsed after starting the engine.

The values for the above are different for each engine and are stored in the ECM PROM. When these values are reached the system goes into Closed loop mode.

In Closed loop mode the ECM calculates air/fuel ration based prmarily on the signal from the O2s, the objective is for a 14.7:1 air/fuel ratio.

So it's how you want your engine running when you first take off. It could end up running a little rich if its still operating in open loop, but probably nothing on any significance. It uses engine coolant temp to determine this mode as described above. Oil temp is not considered as the engine is operating well within the cold range of the oil. Well in almost all continental US areas. (I guess another question is if it's -36C outside do you really want to start and immediately go in your vette <grin>.)

So I usually just watch the coolant temp, when its around 104 I know it's real close to changing to closed loop mode and the O2s are probably ready to do their job. Heated O2s would get them to temp quicker but the engine coolant temp is still on value that must be reach for closed loop to occur.

 

Right on.
If you don't have oil pressure within 2 seconds of start-up, your engine has real problems.
Fire it up, put the clutch in, put it in gear, let the clutch out.

Larry
code5coupe

 

Hey, I don't claim to be a mechanic and your right my oil pressure is the highest right after starting. So it would be better to go hit the 6300 red-line ASAP before the oil temp gets up to 70 or 80?

 

I fire it up an start rolling an let it warm up on my way out of the subdivision an onto the main drag. I just don't stand on it until heat is coming out of the vents. Thats what that Mobil 1 super lube we all use is for, let it do its thing.

BTW, I took her out to the airfield yesterday when it was in the low 20's and had plenty of heat with my 160 deg thermostat.

 

Motor Trend posted an article on this issue few years ago. They stated that engine warming is a myth. They recommended for drivers to let the engine iddle for 30 seconds then moderate driving until you reach operating temperature (oil temp 165-185 F).

I would say you could turn the ASR off after that

Me, I take off after the oil reaches 60 F or coolant reaches 100 F.

 

Well, I'm almost 62-sooooooo, I guess I'm what some of you might consider an old man. But years ago it was best to let the old carburated
motors warm up until the funky automatic choke (if it worked) opened all the way. And we didn't really have all the choices of multi viscosity oils. In my 87 when I start it on a cold morning it will idle at 1000 Rpms-I let it warm up until idle drops to 650-just a minute or so-only because I think it's better on the auto to shift it cold with the lower RPMs.One thing to consider though is if you make alot of short trips not reaching proper oil temps will end up causing sludge.