Hey guys- I'm usually on the C5 section. I'm considering buying a 89 vert w/ 90k for perhaps $8500-9000. What do I need to look for in evaluating a C4 of this vintage?

Thanks

 

I think this is what your looking for!
http://www.corvetteactioncenter.com/...89/89prod.html
I have an 89 vert I just bought last summer with only 8K actual miles on it when I bought it but I paid 18,500 for it from the origial owner

 

scottydog I picked up a 89 roadster a few months ago for 10.5 and it had 67k on it,decent tires and fairly new top. The one your interested in sounds somewhat high to me. Maybe Iam wrong...

 

Thanks for the info. What mechanical stuff starts popping up at 90,000 miles and 15 years old?

 

Mine only has 9K on it now so I can't help on the stuff at 90K but alot of that would be based on mantenance and care

 

I can tell you that on my '88 vert (just under 70K now) that I bought a little over a year ago we've so far put in new intake manifold gaskets, new half-shaft u-joints, and new battery. Going to be replacing the top over the winter and are chasing down an electrical gremlin.

Otherwise, mechanically the L98 is solid and runs like a champ, the trans (A4) appears to be healthy, and the suspension all feels pretty taut yet.

My 2 cents.

 

Check for any fluids pooling around low spots on the top of the engine/intake. The L89 is famous for this and requires pulling the intake to reseal it and the bolts holding it. Check the butterfly on the intake for any wear. The seal on the outside of the windows will probably need to be replaced if they haven't been. Other than that, most of the issues would be worn/dry suspension bushings, brakes and shocks as long as the car has been well maintained otherwise. That's about all the problem areas I had on my '89 with 80k when I sold it. If it's still got the original suspension bushings I'd highly recommend replacing them with silicone ones.

 

I've had an 88 for many years, only replaced battery, alternator, water pump, mufflers, and (most expensive of the bunch) had injectors cleaned. Check the weatherstrip, it's kind of expensive to replace, but with a vert, you won't have to worry about the hatch.

 

This is an exhaustive list, copy/past and print it out:


WHAT TO LOOK FOR IN BUYING A C4 CORVETTE

-Look for floppy interior door panels when you shut the door. That's an expensive fix.
-Put your hand in and feel all around the floorboard carpet. You're looking for dampness, which is bad.

-Look at the outer window seal weatherstripping. They crack after a while, and they're $60 each, and a pain in the butt to replace.

-Look for abraded fiberglass on the underside rim edges of the hood, that's where a poorly-adjusted hood is wearing itself away on the bolt heads.

-Look for floppy ears on the sun visors. That's a nuisance.

-Look for missing ashtray and coin cup inserts in the console. Look for missing lighter. Look for missing top ratchet wrench in the console.

-Look for the lug nut wrench behind the driver's seat. Look for evidence that it's been used.

-Look for shiny spots in the black 'rubberized' interior trim.

-Look for abraded leather seat bolsters and sill carpeting.

-Especially watch for worn-out carpet over the footwell speakers. This is critical, because foot-dragging in and out of the car wears them out, and they are no longer available from ANYONE. Grrr...

-Look for chunks missing out of the windshield weatherstripping. Examine the windshield seal at the very base of the windshield on the INSIDE of the car. It gets cracked and crappy.

-Look at the frame directly behind the driver's front wheel. This is directly under the battery tray, and C4s tend to rust here first, if at all. Ask to take the gill panel off if they'll let you, you'll need a 10mm wrench and a Torx set.

-Get in the car and sit in both seats, and operate ALL of the seat controls several times.

-Look in the storage compartment behind the passenger seat and check to make sure the package tray is in there.

-Check the color and condition of as many fluids as you can get to - PS, oil, tranny, coolant.

-Lie on your back and look over at the rocker panels. They get sandblasted over the years, and look worse on dark-painted cars.

-Check the parking brake for good operation. Check the hood release.

-Check the RPO codes to make sure that the car isn't missing something that should be there. Specifically, "C2L", which means that it should have BOTH tops, because it came that way.

-Run the A/C and the Heater, make sure you get both, especially with the C68 electronic climate control.

-Look for a floppy tilt steering wheel. Put the wheel down in driving position, then try to flex it downward. If it moves more than a smidge, it's going to be a problem sooner or later.

-Look around all the interior trim, A-pillars, halo trim, etc. for missing screws.

Check exhaust system for nicks and/or missing hangers(why are they missing?)

-Pull out the seat bottoms and look for anything under the seats(ie cut wires,food etc).

-check the locks in the console and hatch compartments, make sure the key you have works in those locks.

-if equipped with PKE, check all operations of it

-look for the jack, later C4's have it in the passenger side compartment in the hatch, earlier ones, in a bag within the spare tire

-check rear tire tread, low or no tread means the previous owner drove it properly.

-check wheel orientation, make sure right rear is on the right rear etc, if unsure, pull the wheel off(early C4's had the location stamped on the inside).

-make sure you have two lefts and two rights(wheels)

-check tire orientation, make sure they are rotating in proper direction.


Power seats - do they work?
Power mirrors - do they work?
Power antenna - does it work?
Look for oil leaks around the valve cover gaskets

Check the Air filter element and the casing for it


See if that optional $895 Bose stereo works and all speakers are working properly.
- Try the key in both door locks to make sure the lock is working properly.
- Make sure the digital dash is working properly, try all of the gauge readings by using the switches (i.e. temp/voltage, mileage instant/mileage avg., etc).
- Check to see if the headliner is intact and not starting to sag.
- Check the popup headlights a few times to make sure the gears are working and not sticking.

Check condition of serpentine belt.
Check condition of hoses.
Look for leak on rear diff.
Check play on all 4 wheels for possible hub bearing failure.
Check condition of glass top if equipped. Look for cracks or peeling in clear coat.

check intake manifolds. oil leaks for all years, coolant for L98s.

- oil on the oil pan. could mean a front main or bad pan gasket.

- belt tensioners

- on 1992-93e, the belt is 2 sided, make sure it is good shape, and buy 2 when you order!

- rear window defroster. that is an annoying thing at times.



Check the DIC for proper lights with ignition is in the on position (Batt, SES, etc.). Check that ABS is active at 3mph. Pull codes to see what is in the history.

- make sure if its a 4+3 that the OD works correctly
-check the suspension for signs of wear
-make sure winsheild wipers and switch work in all speeds
-check for al interior screws

-Check for back Glass fit.

Check to make sure the stupid electronic climate control actually works, and doesn't have a mind of its own!
_______


1984-1996 Corvette

• 1984-1996 Carpet without insulation backing — $460/complete set

• 1984-1996 Carpet with insulation backing — $500/complete set

• 1984-1996 Door Panel Carpets — $50-100/pair

1984-1996 Standard Leather Seat Covers — $700-750/set

• 1984-1996 Standard Vinyl Seat Covers — $350-375/set

• 1984-1996 Standard Seat Foam — $300/set

• 1984-1996 Sport Leather Seat Covers — $700-750/set

• 1984-1996 Standard Vinyl Seat Covers — $350-375/set

• 1984-1996 Standard Seat Foam — $300/set
1984-1996 Aftermarket Acrylic Panel — $1100

• 1984-1996 GM Restoration Part Acrylic Roof Panel — $1250


• 1984-89 Dash Cluster Repair — Usually around $1500-$1800 if repairable

Q: What should I look for in a Corvette?

A: First of all, wait for the "perfect" vehicle for you. Don't rush out and buy the first vehicle you look at. You should consider all of the factors on this site and decide what you are looking for in your Corvette and what you want out of it. If you want a mint vehicle you will have to spend more money. If you want something in a reasonable price range you may have to compromise and take a few imperfections to be fixed later (see Corvette Parts for considerations.)

Q: Should I buy a Corvette as an investment?

A: Corvettes usually retain their value and early models increase in value, however there are many other investments that will give you a faster return. The webmaster believes that this vehicle should be enjoyed and not simply stuck in a garage to collect dust while hoping for a return on an investment.

Q: Should I buy a Corvette that is a real "fixer upper"?

A: The cost of restoration of a needy vehicle often exceeds the predictions of an overenthusiastic buyer. Unless you plan on doing all of the labor yourself and investing a lot of time and money, this often turns out to be more of a burden that a pleasure. This is especially true in later models where there is a large selection of vehicles to choose from that aren't so needy.

Q: Do I need to consider if the numbers match?

A: Corvettes with the original motor and original parts hold their value better than those that don't. Also vehicles with lower VIN numbers tend to be more valuable, especially in earlier models. If you are simply looking for a vehicle to enjoy and not as an investment, matching numbers aren't as high on the list of factors you should consider.

Q: Do I need to know the history of the vehicle?

A: Whenever possible try to find out the history of ownership, repairs, alterations, etc. Save all of your paperwork so that you can pass the information along when you sell the vehicle. This information can add to the value of your vehicle.

Although Corvettes tend to hold their value more than most vehicles, it is not a good idea to buy one solely as an investment. This is a vehicle that is meant to be enjoyed!!

Q: How do I know if the car I bought has it's original options?

A: RPO codes are the production codes for the vehicle. They will tell you all the factory options that the vehicle came equipped with. If you don't have a copy of the build sheet and/or window sticker, you should check to see if the option list still remains inside your car. Common placement in a C4 includes under the center console and inside the storage bins. In a C5 you can find it inside the glove box. If you cannot find this sticker inside your vehicle you can try to find the build sheet. The build sheet is the exact specifications for the vehicle including all the RPO codes, the build date and shipping destination. Starting in 1967 the build sheet was glued to the top of the gas tank. Prior to 1967 there is little documentation to prove how original a vehicle is, except to check for a manufacturing date on the parts. In C3s, the build sheet has also been found rolled up and stuffed on top of the steering column and on top the heater box. The tradition of glueing the build sheet to the gas tank continued on through the C4, but many C4s also contain more than one copy of the build sheet. Starting in 1997, on the C5 the build sheet is in the front "bumper" frame rail, the front facia must be removed to access it.

 

Starter, alternator, battery. By 70K miles, these may have been replaced already. Battery's on C4's, usual replacement every 2 years.
My experience only.
Boatman

 

Great checklist Hot Rod!

Thanks everyone! I'll be looking it over perhaps this afternoon.

Scottydog

 

Just wanted to show you the one I paid 18,500 for with 8k on the clock when I bought it (its just like driving a bran new 89 16 years later)
It even smells new inside yet! It sold for over 41k back in 89

 

That's very cool-love verts with the hardtop too.

 

Is there any reason why this can't get pinned?