When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I am a first time user of this forum, what a wonderful site for getting info on Corvettes!
I have a 1994 5.7 Corvette Coupe. During the past week or so, my power steering was giving me problems. Took it in to my dealership, result: water pump needs to be replaced. The service tech told me because of the water pump not working propley, it was leaking the power steering fluid and coolant. My first question, can this happen?
They gave me an estimate of $850 (in Canadian $) to replace the water pump, labour and taxes all including. Is this a fair price to replace the water pump with a new one? I have no idea and would appreciate it if someone can give me some advice on this.
I don't get the connection, is he saying the belt is slipping on the PS pump because of coolant on the belt?
Anyway, if you have coolant leaking and sloshing around in there, you need to get on that before your distributor gets contaminated. Then you are looking at big $$, its a real PITA.
When mine started to leak, I went ahead and replaced the Opti anyway. Maybe not completly necessasary, but it had 114K on it and enough cap and rotor wear I'm glad I did it. I feel beter having it properly vented now too.
The water pump replacement is not that bad of a job. Just did it on my '89 coupe. Took my time, used a lot of recommendations from people on the forum and purchased AC Delco original parts from Chris May at Superior Chevrolet. He is excellent to deal with and a real help with forum members.
When I questioned the local Chevrolet dealership here in Michigan, they wanted $650.00 for the water pump R&R. I got the pump, upper and lower radiator hoses, serpentine belt and thermostat for about $235.00 from Chris.
Sounds like once you replace the water pump, the power steering problem goes away.
Mine leaks, maybe a drop or two a night usually after sitting for a couple of days, but after searching for weeks to see where it was coming from it's NOT leaking from the back seal or weap hole but from the front gasket. Since it's not leaking onto the optispark or anyplace important I'm waiting for warmer weather to fix it and the seaping intake manifold. It Looks like it still has the original pump so I'll end up replacing it instead of fixing it.
I just want to add, buy a quality (GM) unit. I bought an Advanced Auto $160 "Signature Series" pump for an LT1, what a POS. Leaked right away, and you could tell quality of the steel nipples(get you mind out of the gutter... )was much lower than the pump that I replaced. YMMV. »keith
Mine leaks, maybe a drop or two a night usually after sitting for a couple of days, but after searching for weeks to see where it was coming from it's NOT leaking from the back seal or weap hole but from the front gasket. Since it's not leaking onto the optispark or anyplace important I'm waiting for warmer weather to fix it and the seaping intake manifold. It Looks like it still has the original pump so I'll end up replacing it instead of fixing it.
My 92 quasar blue started leaking at the water pump one winter during storage at about 85K. Next spring when I went to drive it the opti was shot. By the way I like the ZR 1 wheels on your car. Nice touch. Mine just has the shredders. You just have to love those blue ones.
I agree. Do it yourself and save a pile of money. Here was my original wp with about 133000 on it. Was working when I pulled it but made a heck of a noise and the bottom side of my hood had coolant tracks all over it....
You might want to consider replacing the mechanical pump with an electric pump while you are doing it... I replaced mine a couple of years ago with a Meziere.
If you do replace the pump yourself be sure you get all the air out and get the system completely full. Due to the way the water flows (top down rather than conventional bottom up) the LT-1 reverse flow cooling system design requires a little extra effort to get full. Your 94 Optispark is the older nonvented design and because the waterpump is right above it is very prone to getting wet and failing. If it did get wet it will most likely fail soon after the pump replacement. Your dealer should have pointed this out to you. If your pump is leaking enough coolant to get the belt wet enough to slip the power steering then the Opti is getting wet too.
My 92 quasar blue started leaking at the water pump one winter during storage at about 85K. Next spring when I went to drive it the opti was shot. By the way I like the ZR 1 wheels on your car. Nice touch. Mine just has the shredders. You just have to love those blue ones.
Thanks, the wheels are what sold me the car, and I was only looking for blue one's when I went looking.
I've heard now from some people that have "Autozone" pumps and like them, people that say only use Delco, and people both way on changing the optispark, one person even took the optispark apart to see what was inside after replacing it. Seems that the cap, rotor, and stainless disk could be cleaned then reassembled and reinstalled. Any thoughts? I have a feeling a few people are going to say no, replace it...
Thanks, the wheels are what sold me the car, and I was only looking for blue one's when I went looking.
I've heard now from some people that have "Autozone" pumps and like them, people that say only use Delco, and people both way on changing the optispark, one person even took the optispark apart to see what was inside after replacing it. Seems that the cap, rotor, and stainless disk could be cleaned then reassembled and reinstalled. Any thoughts? I have a feeling a few people are going to say no, replace it...
the true victim in the opti is the bearing. It's "sealed" and coolant will get into the bearing, eating the grease alive. Once the grease goes, so goes the bearing. It may take a year, or less, but a dry bearing eats itself after a while.
Cleaning the inside of an opti means you have a clean opti and no bearing in about a year.
The other problem is carbon tracing. That's gnarly. It's bad enough as it is, but add coolant to the equation, forget it.
the best bet is to seal the opti cap with RTV. That will keep anything out.
There are options to install vent lines to the opti, and they help, for sure, but the RTV is easiest.
I've heard now from some people that have "Autozone" pumps and like them, people that say only use Delco,
Well, I don't want to say all non-delcos are junk. I was just disappointed because on mine you could actually see the quality different because they used cheap chrome plated steel nipples that were poorly bent and poorly fitted in the holes, and that is where mine leaked.
"autozone" here didn't stock it and I needed the car for a track event the next day, so I had to run whatever I could find, but I wasn't happy about using Bars-Leak on a brand new pump.
I got some opti work to do also, and as I read this, looks like I may need to take a second look at a whole distibutor instead of a simple cap/rotor if my bearing appears compromised.
YMMV, »keith
Replacing cap and rotor just doesn't make sense IMHO. At $160 for these two parts, why not spend an extra hundred twenty and get the whole unit. It's not a job you want to do over again.
Be carful taking the balancer off. You need the smallest puller you can find to clear the steering rack. And if you get it twisted, you could break the balancer by pulling the spokes away from the hub.
Replacing cap and rotor just doesn't make sense IMHO. At $160 for these two parts, why not spend an extra hundred twenty and get the whole unit. It's not a job you want to do over again.
I hear ya, but if the whole distributor gets changed, it'll be a dynaspark, or maybe that MSD if released by then, so it'll be a chunk of change. I probably won't decide till I actually have it apart.