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Taking one back out is a BAD SIGN. If they knew what they were doing on this simple transmission, it would shift like butter after the rebuild. DO NOT accept the "drive and see if it gets better", it wont. The price you paid is FAIR for a superior job, you get what you pay for, just make sure its RIGHT BEFORE YOU LEAVE, if you take it back, it will be put LAST in line. MAKE SURE ITS RIGHT before you pay ( I managed an AAMCO trans shop for a year - HUGE rip off , untrained techs, horrible work).
Valve body problems after a rebuild are quite common. Most builders simply place the valve body in their parts tank. While they rebuild the box, the let the valve body soak. Then the reinstall it. THIS IS WRONG! It needs to come completely apart, spotlessly cleaned and reassembled. All of the clutch lining, band lining and other trash get lodged in the valve body. Most builders are paid rate. They must "beat the clock" to make big money. I usually spend 2-3 hrs on the valve body alone. The valve body is also the most precision, machined piece in the trans. Spit shining it, deburring each valve and careful inspection are critical.
One thing no one mentioned is the fact that Corvette 700R4's are in a class by themselves. They have a different governor than a normal 700R4 and they also have a feature that prevents them from shifting down from OD at full throttle. If you are getting your's rebuilt you should be okay but always beware buying one that is non-Vette.
I can't find my receipt, but I had mine rebuilt by EM's tranny guy and I think it was around $2000. This was with heavy-duty parts, shift-kit and 2500 stall converter. Very pleased with the outcome. It shifts hard and firm.
From: 63.8% of all statistics are made up on the spot.
St. Jude Donor '08-'10
when my tranny died earlier this year I had the tranny and converter both replaced and even including the towing fee it was $1300.00. The tranny was a rebuilt one the converter was new.
Whenever I take any car in for service I always double the time they say they will need the car. If the shop manager says 1 week, I count on 2 weeks. It seems that something always comes up?
I got the car back last week and have been driving it to determine what quality of work i received. It shifts differently, thats for sure. Its very hard from first to second, and seems like its trying to find its gear. It definately requires higher road speeds to shift than before, almost like the lock out isnt kicking in the OD in the lower gears.
Here's the big deal however. When i went to pick it up, the starter jammed over and over. When i brought them out to find out about it, they said it had been sticking when the were moving it around. I had heard some bendix noise in the past, so when they told me that the starter was failing i bought it, and went home.
I replaced the starter yesterday, along with many other items - and it does the EXACT same thing it did there. Now i have to call and fight with them to get it resolved - and boy am i hoping that they dont make this unpleasant.
Anyone have any ideas what they could have done?? It's almost like the flywheel wasnt tightened down or something - it clanks and stops when you turn the key - after the car has been warmed up a bit.
When you bought the new starter was there a shim kit with it? If i remember right, there should be about a .120 thou. between the starter teeth and the flex plate. Someone fill free to correct me here. joe
St. Jude Donor '09,'10,'11,'12,'13,'14-'15-'16-'17-'18-'19-'20-'21
What a nightmare! This is a good reason to go to your normal shop and let them farm out the work. This way they warranty it and any problems you go back to them. In addition they will go to a tranny shop that they trust.
It's not worth the headaches you are going through.
Why not call the parts house and ask about a shim kit?
I got the car back last week and have been driving it to determine what quality of work i received. It shifts differently, thats for sure. Its very hard from first to second, and seems like its trying to find its gear. It definately requires higher road speeds to shift than before, almost like the lock out isnt kicking in the OD in the lower gears.
This is pretty much normal when dealing with a performance upgrade and shift kits. I would check the TV cable setting to make sure it is set correctly.
Here's the big deal however. When i went to pick it up, the starter jammed over and over. When i brought them out to find out about it, they said it had been sticking when the were moving it around. I had heard some bendix noise in the past, so when they told me that the starter was failing i bought it, and went home.
this sounds like they didn't shim the starter properly. You should have gotten an instruction sheet with your new starter that explains how and why to shim the starter. But if not, read here http://www.carcraft.com/howto/2988/index3.html