car ramps
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 46
Likes: 0
From: Pageland South Carolina
car ramps
I read the recent articles about jacking up the vette but nothing was mentioned about ramps. My wife got me a set of rhino ramps for xmas and I was wondering if anyone else uses ramps. If so what are the pro's and con's. Also what precautions should I take when using them.
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 1,970
Likes: 21
From: Denville NJ
The biggest problem I had with the Rhinos was that they slip away when driving up onto them. I solved this problem by placing rubber mats under each ramp which held them in place. The rubber I used is sold on a roll pretty cheaply at Costco. Other than that, they work pretty well. They could be a little taller though, my gut is rather large 
Hope this helps.
Hope this helps.
Advanced
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 62
Likes: 0
From: Yonkers NY
Make Your Own Ramps
I found a great how to article (on of all places, www.mustangworld.com) on how to make your own low profile ramps. The plan uses 2 X 10 lumber, but I think to accomodate the wide Vette tire width I would use 2 X 12's instead.
The basic plan is to stack four 2 X 12's of diminishing length (78", 60", 42", and 24") on top of each other (screw/nail them together as you stack them and put a stop block at the end of the top one. This creates a stepped ramp that is pretty heavy, so it will not push away when you roll up on them. For extra safety, you could probably screw a 2 X 3 along each side of the ramps to guide you onto the ramps and keep you from driving off the side.
The finished ramps will have a 24" long top platform and three 18" long steps leading up to the top. Since "2 by" lumber is actually only 1 1/2" this will give you a 6" high lift. If you want to go higher I guess you could add another level. You could also bevel the leading edge of each step to make driving up onto them a little smoother.
Anybody out there ever try DIY ramps......beats paying $1,300 for a Kwiklft.
The basic plan is to stack four 2 X 12's of diminishing length (78", 60", 42", and 24") on top of each other (screw/nail them together as you stack them and put a stop block at the end of the top one. This creates a stepped ramp that is pretty heavy, so it will not push away when you roll up on them. For extra safety, you could probably screw a 2 X 3 along each side of the ramps to guide you onto the ramps and keep you from driving off the side.
The finished ramps will have a 24" long top platform and three 18" long steps leading up to the top. Since "2 by" lumber is actually only 1 1/2" this will give you a 6" high lift. If you want to go higher I guess you could add another level. You could also bevel the leading edge of each step to make driving up onto them a little smoother.
Anybody out there ever try DIY ramps......beats paying $1,300 for a Kwiklft.
Last edited by richiep; Jan 11, 2006 at 11:21 AM.
Cruising
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
From: Oviedo FL
Last month I bought 67 inch long ramps from www.raceramps.com.
Lift is 10 inches and 14 inches wide to accomadate my wide 10 1/2 inch tires. After years of using a jack with jack stands, these ramps are the way to go.
Use them on all my cars, so much easier to drive up the ramps and with these ramps low clearance cars with spoilers, etc can clear the ramps.
They weight 15 lbs each, easily handle, each ramp good for 1200 lbs.
You should see what kind of ground clearance you get when using them on a SUV!
They are expensive at $269 for a set plus $30 freight. But I couldn't see building a set of wooden ramps with their weight, etc. But I use them for all my cars. What a time saver!
I've used them to change the auto pan oil/gasket on my 96 Vet, flush out the cooling system by removing the knock sensors from underneath, lifiting the rear end to suck out the rear axle fluid, etc, etc.
They don't slip when driving onto them, just slowly creep up them. They will last a lifetime.
Besides my Sears jack couldn't get under the Vet because of clearnance.
Lift is 10 inches and 14 inches wide to accomadate my wide 10 1/2 inch tires. After years of using a jack with jack stands, these ramps are the way to go.
Use them on all my cars, so much easier to drive up the ramps and with these ramps low clearance cars with spoilers, etc can clear the ramps.
They weight 15 lbs each, easily handle, each ramp good for 1200 lbs.
You should see what kind of ground clearance you get when using them on a SUV!
They are expensive at $269 for a set plus $30 freight. But I couldn't see building a set of wooden ramps with their weight, etc. But I use them for all my cars. What a time saver!
I've used them to change the auto pan oil/gasket on my 96 Vet, flush out the cooling system by removing the knock sensors from underneath, lifiting the rear end to suck out the rear axle fluid, etc, etc.
They don't slip when driving onto them, just slowly creep up them. They will last a lifetime.
Besides my Sears jack couldn't get under the Vet because of clearnance.
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Michael S. Palmer
Team Owner
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 46,295
Likes: 2,596
From: Northern, VA
St. Jude Donor '15
"In honor of jpee"
Oviedo, the link to raceramps doesn't work, but I've been to the site before. Nice looking ramps.
As to ramps such as rhino, from what I've seen/read, they're quite safe although the stronger ones are sometimes recommended. I think there's one set that holds up to 2K pounds each. I know it's just me, but I've always had a problem hitting the ramps just right, and it takes me several tries. And I'm always worried about going off the end of them!
From corvetteronw's excellent (and obviously on everyone's mind) long thread on being careful re getting under your car, I picked up at least a few things: the first being, safety, the second being safety and the third being safety. Just from reading the posts by several (many?) others about their "incidents" such as collapsing jack stands, collapsing jacks, etc., it became obvious to me that some of the things I've done in the past are just plain russian roulette.
What I also saw from the thread was that ramps can be great things. To me only, some of the best were the homemade jobs which were fairly elaborate. And safe.
Granted, the two and four post lifts are expensive, but one small mistake under your car and the real question becomes: just exactly how much is a life worth?
As to ramps such as rhino, from what I've seen/read, they're quite safe although the stronger ones are sometimes recommended. I think there's one set that holds up to 2K pounds each. I know it's just me, but I've always had a problem hitting the ramps just right, and it takes me several tries. And I'm always worried about going off the end of them!
From corvetteronw's excellent (and obviously on everyone's mind) long thread on being careful re getting under your car, I picked up at least a few things: the first being, safety, the second being safety and the third being safety. Just from reading the posts by several (many?) others about their "incidents" such as collapsing jack stands, collapsing jacks, etc., it became obvious to me that some of the things I've done in the past are just plain russian roulette.
What I also saw from the thread was that ramps can be great things. To me only, some of the best were the homemade jobs which were fairly elaborate. And safe.
Granted, the two and four post lifts are expensive, but one small mistake under your car and the real question becomes: just exactly how much is a life worth?
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 17,551
Likes: 26
From: El Paso Texas
Originally Posted by CG77VETTE
The biggest problem I had with the Rhinos was that they slip away when driving up onto them. .
The rear tires are on top of the ropes when the front tires are travelling up the ramps.
No slippage.
Team Owner
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 20,111
Likes: 1
From: My redneck of the woods louisiana
Originally Posted by Frizlefrak
Easy cure for slipping ramps. Tie a long piece of rope to each ramp. Lay the rope down along the path the tires will travel.
The rear tires are on top of the ropes when the front tires are travelling up the ramps.
No slippage.
The rear tires are on top of the ropes when the front tires are travelling up the ramps.
No slippage.
honestly i would never have thought of that 
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 1,970
Likes: 21
From: Denville NJ
Originally Posted by Frizlefrak
Easy cure for slipping ramps. Tie a long piece of rope to each ramp. Lay the rope down along the path the tires will travel.
The rear tires are on top of the ropes when the front tires are travelling up the ramps.
No slippage.
The rear tires are on top of the ropes when the front tires are travelling up the ramps.
No slippage.
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,457
Likes: 9
From: Minneapolis MN
Man, I learn some pretty awesome stuff on this forum. I was looking at a Kwiklift, but the $1335 price (plus shipping) was making me choke a bit. But the racer ramps, and under $300 delivered. Wow - I think in reality they will meet most of my undercar needs. Love having another option to consider.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 7,706
Likes: 485
From: Everett WA
C4 of Year Finalist (appearance mods) 2019
Here is another non slip method for your consideration.
1) Place your ramps where you want them to be in either the garage or out on the driveway.
2) Just past the back of each ramp drill 2 holes 5/8" wide & 2" deep and spaced 6" apart.
3) buy some 1/2" round barstock and cut yourself 4 dowels 2.5" long
4) incert your 4 dowels into the holes and place the back of each ramp against its 2 dowels (now sticking up 1/2") your ramps will butt up against the dowels and not slide.
When you are finished just pull out the 4 dowels and store them with your ramps for the next time.
1) Place your ramps where you want them to be in either the garage or out on the driveway.
2) Just past the back of each ramp drill 2 holes 5/8" wide & 2" deep and spaced 6" apart.
3) buy some 1/2" round barstock and cut yourself 4 dowels 2.5" long
4) incert your 4 dowels into the holes and place the back of each ramp against its 2 dowels (now sticking up 1/2") your ramps will butt up against the dowels and not slide.
When you are finished just pull out the 4 dowels and store them with your ramps for the next time.
Thats what I use.
