So it looks like im going to Get some LPE headers for my 87 vette.
The Headers still have the AIR system on

How big a job is it to install those?
Do they go in from top or bottom?

Is there anyting that need tp be modified, other than the rest of the exhaust system after the cat?

Any thought are welcome!

 

On the specifics, I'm sure the L98 guys can fill you in well. The headers should go in easily from the bottom. I'll say this, of all of the cars that I've installed headers on over the years, the C4 is about as easy as any of them. I'd recommend header bolts with allen heads. They're much easier to tighten when the pipe is close to the bolt. 3/8" x 1" in length will work fine. Mine have a head for a 5/16" allen wrench.

 

What about manifold gaskets? Do I change em? Do I use the same type as with the standard manifold?

Pardon´my ingorance...But this area is ALL new to me :o

 

Get a good set header gaskets. I use Percy's Deadsoft aluminum gaskets on my daily driver and NO LEAKS!

I agree with the Carolina Kid's suggestion on header bolts. I used the 12pt ARPs and they were a PITA to tighten.

 

I use copper header gaskets with no leaks but I installed them on a set of clean heads that had never been run with the manifolds on them. Since you're likely not talking about removing the heads and sand blasting them I would be inclined to try the dead soft aluminum as well. Copper will leak if the surfaces aren't perfect to start with.

Allen head bolts are nice, or if those aren't really an option you can invest in a set of open end wrenches with a 90 degree offset, these will help you manipulate a standard bolt when you can't get a normal wrench on them.

I would also recommend putting some ARP thread lubricant on the header bolts. This will lubricate the threads some and help you tighten them better. In theory this would make it easier for them to back out but I've yet to have a problem. I think I was able to get them tight enough that the compressed copper gasket actually acts as a lock washer by providing constant pressure against the bolts to prevent them from backing out.

 

Has anyone considered using Breslin split locks or are they too expensive?

 

my website has a page on the install, I would appreciate it if you sent any LPE header-specific information to me after you are done with yours

so few people have that brand now that you dont see much about them

 

Bought a set from Jegs. About $12.00 apiece!!!

 

My installer had a tough time with the LPEs. Unfortunately I took a serious hit in the wallet. Something like 14-16 hours of labor. crazy.

I was getting married/on honeymoon while my headers were being installed, so I wasn't around to get control of costs or pick up the car early to work out the details myself...

Some things that caused trouble/extra time during the install, broken dipstick tube, had to drop pan, etc. I had 3 bolt collector flanges welded on, to work with my existing 2 1/4" duals. The Alt bracket needed to be modified, cut and re-welded. I think the rear ac bracket is ok. Headers are close to starter, making it difficult to install header and re-install starter.

The #8 plug is difficult to get in. A 5/8" deeply offset and short box end wrench can be used from below. I borrowed one from a friend. I think it was a Mac brand tool. The other plugs are better.

I didn't use the included y-pipe so I can't comment on fit with the collectors/converter. I still have the y-pipe if you need one.

I used Earl's pressure master header seals for gaskets. Due to the thick gasket and think flanges, longer header bolts were required, than the ones I originally purchased. These gaskets seem to be holding up well. The headers are very close to the oil filter. Later, I rotated the oil cooler a bit to get some more filter and hose clearance.

EGR pipe fits well, but I will probably ditch this for block off plates. It woud save some trouble to do this the first time.

Ground clearance is reduced. I scrape on the driver's side tubes every once in a while. Thermal plug wire and boot protectors keep the wires from burning. I think they're DEI Protect-a-boots.

The gasket retainer had to be ground down for #8 angle plug clearance this may be unique to the Earl's pressure seals.

Words from my installer "prey that you never have to remove the starter".

 

i am using them and so far great no probs

 

I looked at my friend's '85 race car this morning that has the LPEs on it. He said they were no big deal to install. He has a racing pan w/ kick-outs and still has plenty of clearance. I think the starter would be do-able by loosening the header should it need changed.

 

Thanks again.

It would be kinda of a "big job" to change the starter for me, since the starter would have to me importet.

...the only starters avalible here is 4 banger Toyota starters

 

I installed LPE headers on my '88 last spring.

You will need to get the car about 18" in the air in order to easily slide the headers in from the bottom.

On mine I could not get the dipstick out of the block. Rather than risk breaking it while sliding the passenger side header up into position, I cut the header flange so that it resembles the hooker header flange. It was easy work with a sawzall.

Reinstall the starter before you tighten the passenger side header to the head. When it's tight, there just isn't enough space to slide the OEM starter in place.

Install the y-pipe before you tighten both headers to the head. You don't have to install the clamps on the y-pipe, but you will want to slide it on before the headers are tight to the head.

I didn't have to cut any brackets to fit the headers. What I did have to do is remake the tubular bracket that comes off the back of the alternator to the header flange. I reused the original bracket and bent it to fit the new header. I also resued the stock bolt to mount that bracket and reused another stock bolt on the passenger side to mount the A/C bracket. Save the stock header bolts and stock nuts from the exhaust manifold to cat connection. Thread one of the nuts onto a stock manifold bolt and install in to header flange. Tighten nut to the header flange after the bolt bottoms out. Now you have a stud to attach the A/C bracket and the Alternator bracket.

I used the percy's deadsoft aluminum gaskets, haven't had a leak.

I also used 3/8"x16x1" socket head cap screws except where I used the original header bolts mentioned above.

You will need to install a heated O2 sensor since the bung is in the collector.

It took me two full days working slowly to get this all accomplished.

 

thanks...

Where can i get a heated O2 sensor?

Is it not possible to run my std sensor?

 

With the standard O2 sensor, my car will drop out of closed loop at idle. It will generally stay in closed loop while cruising for what thats worth.

I don't think this is a big deal, since I think my open loop cals are pretty good, but if your open loop calibration is on the rich side, the extra fuel may burn up the cats after a while, especially if your exhaust has some air leaks. Emissions if this is a concern, and fuel economy may suffer somewhat.

 

I just remeber that i have some pics of the engine the Headers was removed from.
Maybe this could help, too see what have been change i order to get them to fit....

I really appriciate all the help! Im trying to decide if I schould be these headers first thing to morrow. My only concern is if i can install them, and how much "extra" work it will me to put these on my car..

here are the pics og the Headers orginal engine...






Any help in what have benn changed to make em´fit...

 

I didn't have to modify anything on the longblock for the headers to install.