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I am getting ready for So.Cal./Vegas summers. I want to replace the aux. fan which is useless. Looks like it should be on a beenie! I need to blow some air through the radiator.
I have seen in the past, fans that I believe were called the "Black Max." The blade could be turned to make pushers, or pullers. They were pretty good size.
I have put a Be Cool radiator in my 89, my fans are on a switch so I can leave them on, I have a new motor in my car, water pump, etc, etc. I can sit for quite a while in the heat before it climbs to a point that I have to turn the air off. If my wife gets stuck in traffic again with no air, I will be going for rides by myself. Once I get moving, I can bring the temp down to 195 quick with the air on.
Anyone ever replace the aux. fan?
Didn't have a problem with mine from the factory (so at least for me, GM didn't muck up that part of the design) and once I fixed the leaky head gaskets, I don't have any problems now and we do see an occassional 100 or so. I test my Aux fan by putting the nose up against the garage wall and with the a/c off, I can sometimes can get it to come on. Otherwise, I usually see 205 to 215 around town (ok I do have the a/c pumping) and 195 to 200 on the 15. I'd make sure everything inside of the engine is as clean as your new radiator, particularly since it's an '89. I'd also make sure the high side of the a/c isn't climbing above 230 to 240 psi. However if you're stuck on it has to be cooler, then make sure both fans are getting all the volts they need to turn at proper speed - hard to do with an alternator that's maybe putting out 25 to 35 amps at idle - especially with the a/c on max - that's probably sucking 15 to 20 out of it right there. Or, maybe just switch to a clutch fan and remove the voltage drop altogether. Frankly don't know why anyone hasn't tried that.
Every thing is new and clean, right fuel mixture, right coolant mixture, an OMYGOD size radiator. There is nothing more that needs to be done.
On freeways in So. Cal, and Vegas as long as I stay moving I run 195-200 in the hotest temps. once I am stopped, with both fans going, it will take awhile but the temp will gradually climb and I will turn of the a/c at 235. If I am not stopped to long, no problem. I will not let it get over 235. My thinking is a big aux. fan would simulate moving by sending air through the evap. and rad. Right? Wrong?
Members say they drive their cars, and sit in the Pheonix heat w/ air, no problem with factory rads. Mine won't!
I would like to maybe sit a little longer in traffic w/ the air on.
No one knows of a after market fan??
Every thing is new and clean, right fuel mixture, right coolant mixture, an OMYGOD size radiator. There is nothing more that needs to be done.
On freeways in So. Cal, and Vegas as long as I stay moving I run 195-200 in the hotest temps. once I am stopped, with both fans going, it will take awhile but the temp will gradually climb and I will turn of the a/c at 235. If I am not stopped to long, no problem. I will not let it get over 235. My thinking is a big aux. fan would simulate moving by sending air through the evap. and rad. Right? Wrong?
Members say they drive their cars, and sit in the Pheonix heat w/ air, no problem with factory rads. Mine won't!
I would like to maybe sit a little longer in traffic w/ the air on.
No one knows of a after market fan??
You meant through the CONDENSOR and radiator, right? We knew that, just couldn't resist. And, theory is correct, they are both heat exchangers, meaning more coolant (cool air) over the outside fins the more effective in lowering internal temperatures. I am sure there is a point of diminishing return, but someone else will have to figure that one out. Enjoy the Ride.
I'd still guess that the problem is volts/amp - not blade design or the radiator. As it idles and the temps soar, they drop and with it, your fans are slowing down. That also causes the high side to climb and if it gets above 250 psi, you've got quite an additional heat transfer to the radiator. Most of GM's owner's manuals recommend that you turn off the a/c to drop the load - not a very good fix when it's 100 plus. I find that staying with the one fan and a clean system (a/c and coolant and if you haven't cleaned out the orifice in 16 Years or replaced the Drier, you might want to consider that) keeps it under control. I've got a feeling your voltimeter will show you what the problem is and until you solve that, a bigger fan (and certainly not a motor with any more draw) isn't going to keep your a/c on any longer.
I'd still guess that the problem is volts/amp - not blade design or the radiator. As it idles and the temps soar, they drop and with it, your fans are slowing down. That also causes the high side to climb and if it gets above 250 psi, you've got quite an additional heat transfer to the radiator. Most of GM's owner's manuals recommend that you turn off the a/c to drop the load - not a very good fix when it's 100 plus. I find that staying with the one fan and a clean system (a/c and coolant and if you haven't cleaned out the orifice in 16 Years or replaced the Drier, you might want to consider that) keeps it under control. I've got a feeling your voltimeter will show you what the problem is and until you solve that, a bigger fan (and certainly not a motor with any more draw) isn't going to keep your a/c on any longer.
Mostly anyways. With that kind of electric load you would want to look into upgrading to higher output alternator. If you have sight glass on a/c drier and it is NOT blue then time to change it. I wouldn't change the ac orifice tube unless your vent temps are higher than spec., but drier is to ac as oil filter is to engine (sorta like).
Just a guess on my part...but when you said you have an OMYGOD size radiator...did you change the actual size of the radiator? Is it thicker than OEM? Sounds like your fans aren't able to pull the air thru the Condensor and Radiator to keep it cool.
With A/C on, the inside fan should be on all the time. I have a switch on the AUX fan and leave that turned on all the time in the summers here in Florida. I could let mine sit with the A/C on till I run out of gas and it won't read even near 210.
Bingo crewzin, you win. Yes, The BeCool rad. is a big aftermarket rad. like Dewitts. I want to create a huricane to get air through the condensor to the rad. like I was driving on the freeway!!!
Freeway speeds= temp. drop.
More air through condensor should= temp. drop.
The AUX fan for the Corvette has 4 small flat blades. Although it works fine for most of us, maybe you should get a fan like the one on my PT Cruiser (picture below). It puts out a heck of a lot of air.
Crewzin, you win again. That is what I am looking for. Did that come on the car, or after market.
My aux. fan has five little blades, no shroud. Don't see how that can push air.
Thanks!
Sorry, that's the regular size fan that comes standard on the Cruiser. It's probably a big too big for the space that the Corvette AUX fan has. I was just pointing out that the turbo blades on that fan put out a more powerful force of air which is what you need. Don't know where you can find one like that to fit into the frontal area of our Vettes. Maybe just search around on Google or eBay.
Flexalite makes universal fans and I think there are other companies out there check with Summit racing or Jegs, Or do a search for automotive cooling fans....
Flexalite makes universal fans and I think there are other companies out there check with Summit racing or Jegs, Or do a search for automotive cooling fans....
JC Whitney used to carry various 12v cooling fans. I have no idea what they have today, nor their quality since I don't buy from them.
They probably have a website. Good luck!
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