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Hi! New member, have a couple of British Sports Cars but thought it was about time I got myself and American Sports Car. Several months ago acquired an 89 Corvette Coupe with 48,000 miles on it and in very good condition and have been enjoying it greatly. One problem hope you can help me with. There are times when I cannot turn on the ignition switch but after a few times it does engage and start. I have read items in the forum about the VAT system sometimes causing the problem. I am not sure it is the VAT or the ignition switch which needs some lubrication or replacement. I dont know if I should put any lubrication into the ignition switch. Any recommendations? Would appreciate any help you can give me. Thanks
St. Jude Donor '06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
You can get a new one from www.corvettecentral.com It comes with a blank key so you can take it to a lock shop and have them cut a couple of new ones that match the resistance on your present key's pellett.
You will need to rent a steering wheel puller and a lock plate release tool at Pep Boy's/Auto Zone. The job is not too hard if you have a little mechanical ability.
It could be as simple as 'wiggling' the steering wheel to release the key interlock. Let's see what other help you get, this forum is great and someone will help you out for sure.
"There are times when I cannot turn on the ignition switch but after a few times it does engage and start"
After reading the post I'm wondering if the trouble is in the ignition switch (down at the base of the column), the lock cylinder (at the top of the column), or the starter. Can you detail exactly what is happening? Are you not able to turn the lock cylinder? Or can you turn the lock cylinder but the starter won't turn? If you can turn the lock cylinder but the starter doesn't turn is there a delay until the starter does turn?
When it happens, the switch is locked and does not turn. When it does turn it starts right up.
Could be as simple as a worn key, have you tried another? If not a worn key then the cylinder lock could be bad. These cylinder locks have an electrical wire and connector attached to them. As you probably know, there is a pellet in the key. It's a resistor. When the key is inserted into the cylinder the resistance is somehow measured and with the VATS system used to start the car. I won't try to go into it. It doesn't seem like the VATS is causing the problem based on your description. If you were having problems there'd be other symtoms. It seems more like a mechanical problem with the key cylinder. There is a remote possiblity that the key cylinder linkage to the ignition switch (which is mounted at the base of the column) may be causing a problem, but it's remote. It should be isolated by inspecting the switch and rod relationship. By removing the driver's side hush panel you should be able to see the rod/rods that are coming down the column. One of them is for the high beam switch, the other is for the ignition switch. This switch has several larger gauge wires going to it. Rotate the ignition switch and inspect the rod travel and engagement to the switch. If it appears normal then I would be looking at a key cylinder replacement. Steering wheel removal does require some tools you should be able to buy at a good auto parts store. A steering wheel removal tool, a lock plate compressor, and some torx sockets, plus some standard screwdrivers are pretty much that's needed to replace the cylinder lock. If you still need further procedural instructions, they can also be supplied on this forum.
Art
Last edited by MrRenoman; Feb 8, 2006 at 10:08 PM.