I am looking to sell my 90 coupe but have to get this VATS problem dealt with first. Asking a potential buyer to wait for 30 minutes while I unhook the battery and reset the system kinda gives off a bad first impression. I bought the bypass module from Ecklers and hooked it up but I am still having the same problem. What else could it be? I ordered another module from Ecklers because I thought that maybe the first one they sent me was for the wrong code. If that doesn't do the trick what else could it be? Is there a way I can totally disable the system or do I have to take it in to a GM dealer? I know that this leaves my vehicle vulnerable but I'm not really worried about that because I will be parking it on a military instillation with multiple other cars. Should be pretty safe there. Any help I can get will be greatly appreciated!!!!

 

There is a complete by-pass you can do. do a search on vats or vats bypass and you'll problem find what your looking for. On the other hand, i've installed the bypass module and have had no issues.

 

I fought the VATS for a year before I disabled it entirely. I removed the display just above the radio and grounded the small green wire on the relay there. This only after replacing the starter, battery and a bypass for the key. This system is just not trustworthy enough to keep enabled.

 

i agree, its archaic and imho these days unnecessary.

i got rid of my VATS after it leaving me sit a few times, de-programmed on the chip by my tuner (since i was having it recalibrated anyway).

i don't think VATS is worth a hill of beans anymore.

 

VATS can keep your vette from being stolen. 99% of thefts are done by bashing the column and jumping the ignition. The person I bought my 87 from had a 90 and came out of work to broken glass and a bashed column, but the vette hadn't moved an inch. Keep your car in good repair !!!
The VATS module closes the start enable relay and tells the ECM to exercise the injectors by comparing the pellet resistance with the stored number. If the resistance isn't correct, then VATS makes you wait 6 minutes to try again. The starter solenoid gets power through the ign sw crank contact, the start enable relay, and then the clutch safety switch (gear selector switch if automatic). First try your spare ign key as its pellet contacts aren't worn like your everyday key. Next, jump the clutch safety switch and try a crank while measuring the voltage on the jumper. If you don't have 12v on the jumper in crank position, then you will have to determine where the circuit is not continuous. You can test the starter by jumping 12v to the clutch safety switch jumper, the starter should run. Most VATS troubles are due to worn contacts in the ign tumbler that make connection to the pellet. You can check this out by removing the hush panel above the drivers feet and finding the 2 wires from behind the steering column that go to a 2 pin connector. Unplug the connector, insert ign key and measure the resistance across the wires from the column. It should measure the same as the pellet. If over 13k ohms, you need a new ign tumbler which has new contacts that touch the pellet. You can temporarily bypass VATS by connecting a fixed resistor the same value as your pellet across the 2 wires that go into the harness (these go to the VATS module). You can use 1/4 watt 5% resistor from Radio Shack. There is no need to spend $30 for a bypass kit.
For all you guys that bypassed your VATS instead of fixing it, if your left headlight burns out do you epoxy a flashlight onto the hood?
About 6 years ago my 87 left me stuck at church and I went home and got a resistor and drove my car until I could schedule a tumbler replacement and I haven't had any trouble since and I drive my 87 everyday!
Oh yeah, my clutch safety switch went bad too and since I couldn't get my hands into the small space to replace it, I jumpered the safety switch.

 

VATS saved mine... Here is my cracked column that I replace this past weekend....