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Thinking of getting my 85 painted. I would like to do the prep work myself, can you guys offer any assitance on this. Please try to be detailed, I would like to sand, minor body repair, and prime. Thanks
I did with my '85 what you're planning to do... Save some money by doing as much prepping as possible.
The biggest thing you can do for the body shop to save time and money is to get all the trim molding off your car. That takes hours and hours to do, and is a necessity if you want your paint job to be as nice as possible.
Other than that- I sanded the entire car down with 400 then 600 then 1000 (I think those were the grits... it's been a while). I left the body shop do any and all body work necessary (there was one small spot at the driver's door), because once you have the car that close, it's really not a big deal for them to touch up some things.
See my website if you wanna see what my car went through step by step.
Well since your getting it repainted, i'd say mikey has the best idea and yes those are the correct grit types to use. I'd use 1500 grit if your going to wetsand. Speaking of which use plenty of water when sanding, so as not to damage the plastic. At least thats what i'd do if I was repainting a Vette. I just scrub away on a metal car, lol.
Take the car apart, and if label everything and take some pics. unless you've done this kind of work before the labeling and pics will help later on. I would then use a good was and grease remover on the whole car.
You gotta get all the wax off the car. Then I would 400 or 600 the whole car with a flat block to start with. I wouldn't sand the car with anything finer than 600. The bodyshop is going to seal the car prior to painting it and sealer will fill 400 grit scratches no problem. I would sand it with 400 wet. Do yourself a favor though and don't buy cheap sandpaper. Good luck
You needn ot go any finer than 800 grit for any paint job, if you go too fine, paint wont have "tooth" and your paint will flake off.
800 grit wont show any sand scratchesi n the paint job, metallic or solid. I paint cars, and i only use 600 when i do metallics, silver shows the worst, and i use 600 andi ts fine. Just make sure its 600 grit wetsand.
as for body work, use a DA and sand the car down to bare fiberglass. and use your filler to fill your imperfection or wavyness. block out and prime. If you have cracks do the same, and V out the crac, tape the back side, and glass patch, allow it to cure, then patch the backside. Sand smooth, then skim fill, then prime. block the primer out with 320, then 400, then reprime, then block with 400 then wetsand with 600. You'll be good.
Take the car apart, and if label everything and take some pics. unless you've done this kind of work before the labeling and pics will help later on. I would then use a good was and grease remover on the whole car.
You gotta get all the wax off the car. Then I would 400 or 600 the whole car with a flat block to start with. I wouldn't sand the car with anything finer than 600. The bodyshop is going to seal the car prior to painting it and sealer will fill 400 grit scratches no problem. I would sand it with 400 wet. Do yourself a favor though and don't buy cheap sandpaper. Good luck
also, bodyshops are getting away from sealing cars every time now. They only do it when necesdsary, they are making new paint systems where sealing is only on a needed basis. If the clear is in good condition, they'll shoot color right overtop of it. then clear. Evene if there are primer spots, they wont seal it. most high builds are primer surfacers/sealers. so selaing is unneeded.
I plan on doing the same thing in a year or two. I'd like to have the pillars of the doors painted also. Might want to set some money aside for new weatherstripping and badges. It's the little things that make the car stand out.