Door Lock Actuator question
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 11,628
Likes: 1
From: Sherwood, Arkansas
Door Lock Actuator question
I had keyless entry installed on my 92 yesterday and I was told I need a passenger side door lock actuator for my coupe. I don't have the manual yet (I have only had the car less than a month) and I was wondering if somebody can tell me how to get to the actuator, how hard this is to do and about how much I can expect to spend on it parts wise? Thanks for any and all help.
Lee
Lee
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 854
Likes: 1
From: The burbs of Denver CO
Lee, I've been thinking about the same thing for my 92. I don't know what they meant when they said you need a passenger door actuator, unless your existing one is bad, or they are trying to sell you one that works with their transmitter. To check your pass. actuator, just check to see if your power lock switch on driver and/or pass side lock the door (not the manual slide switch). They should be able to wire into that drivers side main switch and have it use the circuitry to open/close both doors.
The door panels come off rather easy, take the screws out, including those near/behind the door release handle, as well as behind the top light lense above the drh, and lift up on the panel to raise it over the window lip on the inside. I don't remember if you have to remove the inner alum. panel or not to get to the actuator.
Drop a few bucks and get the factory manuals. I have purchased and seen others sell for as little as $15 used on ebay. Well worth it!
The door panels come off rather easy, take the screws out, including those near/behind the door release handle, as well as behind the top light lense above the drh, and lift up on the panel to raise it over the window lip on the inside. I don't remember if you have to remove the inner alum. panel or not to get to the actuator.
Drop a few bucks and get the factory manuals. I have purchased and seen others sell for as little as $15 used on ebay. Well worth it!
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 11,628
Likes: 1
From: Sherwood, Arkansas
Originally Posted by thebeerman
Lee, I've been thinking about the same thing for my 92. I don't know what they meant when they said you need a passenger door actuator, unless your existing one is bad, or they are trying to sell you one that works with their transmitter. To check your pass. actuator, just check to see if your power lock switch on driver and/or pass side lock the door (not the manual slide switch). They should be able to wire into that drivers side main switch and have it use the circuitry to open/close both doors.
The door panels come off rather easy, take the screws out, including those near/behind the door release handle, as well as behind the top light lense above the drh, and lift up on the panel to raise it over the window lip on the inside. I don't remember if you have to remove the inner alum. panel or not to get to the actuator.
Drop a few bucks and get the factory manuals. I have purchased and seen others sell for as little as $15 used on ebay. Well worth it!
The door panels come off rather easy, take the screws out, including those near/behind the door release handle, as well as behind the top light lense above the drh, and lift up on the panel to raise it over the window lip on the inside. I don't remember if you have to remove the inner alum. panel or not to get to the actuator.
Drop a few bucks and get the factory manuals. I have purchased and seen others sell for as little as $15 used on ebay. Well worth it!
The driver side nor passenger side electric door switch will lock the passenger side door. Must be done manually to lock the passenger side door. I also just purchased a manual from Helms for over $100.00 just have not got it yet.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 854
Likes: 1
From: The burbs of Denver CO
Interesting. With the power lock from the dr. door, I can lock/unlock both doors. It sounds like your unit is bad, or disconnected. there is a plastic clip that holds the rod in place, and these are prone to breakage. You might want to take it apart and check things out, it isn't a bad job. I don't know how often you use the passenger door, but it is a pain to have to reach over and manually lock the passenger door - but then I bet that is why You got the remote, huh? I haven't tried buying an actuator yet, but they should be standard gm (not vette specific), plentiful and cheap to replace if need be. If you are trying to determine whether the switch or actuator are bad, you should be able to easily run a hot and ground lead to the actuator and see if it works when you bypass the switch.
Let me know if you need more help, I have messed with these on my vette a couple of weeks ago, and I have built a couple of hot rods with pdl's from the ground up.
Let me know if you need more help, I have messed with these on my vette a couple of weeks ago, and I have built a couple of hot rods with pdl's from the ground up.
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 11,628
Likes: 1
From: Sherwood, Arkansas
Originally Posted by thebeerman
You did check the fuses first, right?
Had the work done yesterday and have not checked anything yet (
) - just going by what the installer told me. i took it it to have the windows tinted and keyless installed. Got tired of having to fumble for keys caring stuff to car. I know I should have checked the fuse first but I am a dumba**.
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 854
Likes: 1
From: The burbs of Denver CO
Yeah, I know the feeling, but even with the "experts" make simple problems into complex ones like a blown fuse. But,if the master (dr. side) power switch works one or both, the fuse is ok. If only one, it could be an actuator or wiring or a switch. If you can hear it clunk when the switch is pressed (dr or pass) then the rod/connectors are broken. If no clunk then go back to the switch/wiring/actuator.
You will be glad you bot the manuals. I actually have two sets, cause I found one that went for $15 for both (and gm factory not brand X) as well as a rare set of complete construction manuals for a 90 that I think I paid about 50 bucks for. Except for transmissions and rear ends I do all my own work and diagnostics. It has saved me a fortune over the years, and it keeps me out of the bars.
Good luck. I am heading out shortly to check with the powder coater on my sawblades and probably won't get back online until next Monday, let me know if any particular questions come up.
Garth
You will be glad you bot the manuals. I actually have two sets, cause I found one that went for $15 for both (and gm factory not brand X) as well as a rare set of complete construction manuals for a 90 that I think I paid about 50 bucks for. Except for transmissions and rear ends I do all my own work and diagnostics. It has saved me a fortune over the years, and it keeps me out of the bars.
Good luck. I am heading out shortly to check with the powder coater on my sawblades and probably won't get back online until next Monday, let me know if any particular questions come up.
Garth
