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From: www.ncminsurance.com Bowling Green KY Home of the Corvette!
CI 1-2-3-4-5-6-7-8-9-10-11-12 Vet
St. Jude Donor '07-'08
NCM Sinkhole Donor
Service Engine Soon!
I had the SES logo popup on my DIC while driving home a little while ago. I looked at all of my guages and my volts were at 14.3, oil and water temp at 230. No odd noises or anything, so I am wondering what this could be...Any help?
I had the SES logo popup on my DIC while driving home a little while ago. I looked at all of my guages and my volts were at 14.3, oil and water temp at 230. No odd noises or anything, so I am wondering what this could be...Any help?
I was kidding about the tire pressure Adam.
So car runs perfect but SES light
I would suggest reading the code that has been stored by the computer. You can rent the code reader (comes with book on the faults) for a few bucks plus deposit at Autozone or Kragen. There is the paperclip method that involves counting the flashes of the SES light but Im not too sure how that works.
From: www.ncminsurance.com Bowling Green KY Home of the Corvette!
CI 1-2-3-4-5-6-7-8-9-10-11-12 Vet
St. Jude Donor '07-'08
NCM Sinkhole Donor
Originally Posted by vader86
First thing you do is pull the codes, dont spend ANY money until you do that.
But I bet its Code 32-EGR related.
Got in the car this morning and the light was off..I assumed it was a history code..I went and had it checked out anyway...32-EGR was it and it was a history code..
Damn EGR's!! Hell just put a block off plate on it and be done with it. But you will have the "Service engine soon" light on all the time.
Or you could buy a new EGR valve and that might fix. either that or the noid.
oh, geez... the EGR is not your enemy. The EGR does two things, one, lowers NOx emissions by lowering combustion temps, which in turn lowers the chance of detonation. So your solution is to remove the EGR just to avoid a replacement every 80k + miles. yea... that makes sense...
Adam - the EGR has 2 parts... the switch and the valve. If the light is on after about 20 minutes of driving, it's the valve. If it comes on after startup, that means the switch failed the startup self test.
Replace the valve... the light will go away.
You will need a 10mm wrench and about 1 hour of time... I suggest a gear wrench, cause space is at a premuim back there. Get the new valve from NAPA. The valve is located on the back, right side of the intake manifold, between the intake and the firewall. It's black... I can take a picture later if you want.
The light went off on its own, so I am assuming it has corrected itself for the time being..
Adam
I will bet the light will come back, and will so within the next week or 2. When they start to fail, it's because they have carboned up and are slow to react.
It will only get worse... I would just set aside the time to replace it before it becomes a problem... the car will start to run poorly and will miss a little at cruise.
Mine did that once, about a year and half ago. The SES came on, after I had made a 80 mile trip. Didn't do it going there, but did on the return trip. It came on about 10 miles outside of town, stayed on about 5 minutes, went back out, and hasn't done it again. My mechanic said it was probably an oxygen sensor that had a piece of carbon stuck in it, or some carbon buildup on the surface.
Adam, I just replaced mine this past weekend. Took about an hour. Not hard at all. Mine was the O.E.M. valve, too, according to the numbers stamped on it and it was clogged up with carbon. The diaphragm on the back of the valve was rotted away, too.
I replaced the valve, inspected the vacuum lines, unhooked the battery for 5 minutes to clear the codes and started the engine. Haven't seen Code 32 since. Pretty easy fix.
I purchased my valve for about $50 plus free shipping from