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Has anyone changed the original wires on a 1990 L98? GM must have put the wires and clips on the motor before they put it in,cause there is no way anyone could could do it like that again unless you strip the firewall and back of motor of all parts--NOT. What have you guys done? Im thinking of getting some new clips ( all the old ones crumbled) and run them neatly but on top of the motor and not all down by the bell housing like they were. Anyone out there dealt with this before, Id like to here how you guys reran your wires. Thanks for your help guys
Mudslide, I don't remember my l98, but sure remember my lt1 in the 92. Are you running a distributor, or opti? If it is the opti, I would suggest you pull the air intake system, slip the serpentine belt off, and then remove the belt tensioner. The passenger side is a breeze, the driver a challenge. Personally I disregarded all of the original wiring loom pieces, just routing the new wires past, then zipping them to the loom bracket. Start at the back, disconnect from the opti, wrap tape around the opti end of the old and the plug end of the new, then carefully thread the new wire thru the maze to the plug. Consider while you are at it using some dialectic sealer at the opti end. Piece of cake, shouldn't take more than half a day. OK it took me a whole day, but I had too many friends helping who all think drinking a beer is half the work.
I replaced the wires on my '90. I used the factory clips and replaced a few that did break. It takes a little longer and is a little tougher to do, but I think it looks better than just running the wires over the top of the valve covers.
I did it a few months ago. One wire at a time with new clips. Drivers side was easy. Front right and back right were a bear for my big clumsy mits. I think I guided with my fingers and pushed the front one on with a dowel. The back one I gingerly used adjustable offset pliers above the neck of the plug cap and pushed slowly till it set. Took my time. I know it was a couple of hours. No problems other than tight spaces.
Yeah, I just did mine, and I know what you mean. Most of the clips were so brittle they broke, I got a new set from MidAmerica, about $20 shipped. You might want to get the clips before you take it apart so you don't have to do it twice like me. Without the clips, the new wires fry. Trying to see where the wires go is impossible without taking it all apart. Do it one wire at a time, yeah right! Even with all my precautions, I switched two wires, ran pretty well switched, well not really. I took off the AC brace, center part of the fender liner, smog hose, and could still barely touch the wires (front two passenger side). I changed the plugs at the same time to double my fun. I broke off a plug inside my sparkplug socket, can't get it out, bought a new socket. My hands looked like I had been catching wildcats bare handed. This is almost as much fun as working in my boats engine compartment. I know I'm just a shadetree mechanic, but this is nuts. I could change all four plugs and wires in my old TR7 (Triumph) in five minutes. Good thing too since it fouled plugs often. Oh well, some cars require you to loosen the engine mounts and jack up the engine to change plugs. The designers must have a strange sense of humor. Oh, to answer your question, yes, you can reroute the wires anyway you want, it's your car.
Ed---sounds like you had just as much (fun) as Im haveing now. I got the pass. side wires and plugs done--my hands were raw --went to the bar to think about next side
Oh you did the easy side first! Taking a break on a hard job is always a good idea, seems like your brain thinks it through while you are resting, and it goes easier afterwards, or maybe the resting helps. When routing the wires remember those cigar sized smog thingies on each side(I like to use the exact terminology) get hot enough to melt your wires, and brand your fingers pretty well too.
Good topic as I am going to tackle the same job in the next month or so.
One suggestion someone had sent me was to pull the 4 wires out on one side, lay them down and replace each wire individually using new clips. This way, you slide the new wires back in at the back of the motor and connect the plug wires back. I would recommend taping the wire ends with the cylinder number to reference when hooking back up.
Sounds like a good suggestion. I think I will order my clips now.
Sounds like a plan BUT wait till you try to get the wires from one side to the other side behind and under the distributor--thats were the fun comes in I tied a string on the old wire and then to the new wire and pulled them through, the boots still keep getting stuck back there. I also pop the inner fender wall out on the pass. side --makes it alot easyer to get at the plugs.
Good topic as I am going to tackle the same job in the next month or so.
One suggestion someone had sent me was to pull the 4 wires out on one side, lay them down and replace each wire individually using new clips. This way, you slide the new wires back in at the back of the motor and connect the plug wires back. I would recommend taping the wire ends with the cylinder number to reference when hooking back up.
Sounds like a good suggestion. I think I will order my clips now.
Dino
Good idea,but there are five connected together on the passenger side, and three on the drivers side. Some from each side go under the dist. to the other side, and some are longer than others. You can't just pull one at a time, they get stuck under the dist. The second one(from the firewall)on the passenger side is the straight plug tip (rather than "L" shaped). Have fun!
Good idea,but there are five connected together on the passenger side, and three on the drivers side. Some from each side go under the dist. to the other side, and some are longer than others. You can't just pull one at a time, they get stuck under the dist. The second one(from the firewall)on the passenger side is the straight plug tip (rather than "L" shaped). Have fun!