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Old May 18, 2006 | 12:31 AM
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RED-85-Z51's Avatar
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Default Need Paint Help

I need some serious paint help...

My 85 has the original paint on it. a year ago it looked MINT. Had a few chips up front...but nothing major.

My major problem now is hazing. The whole top looks like someone rubbed a tarp over it for a month..but it hasnt had a tarp on it. Lots of haxing and SUPER fine scratches. Nothing deep at all.

The hood is doing the same thing in spots, mainly up near the windsheild. It also has some deep scratches, where an azzhat mowing o nthe side of the road tossed a chunk of aspahualt up and it rolled across the hood. Just a few deep nicks, in a small area. I can over look that, if the rest of the paint looked good.

Im going to have to have the rear of the car painted as the paint is coming off the bumper from getting bumped. The paint is spider webbed, and chipping off in a few spots. But it is alot cheaper to have a bumper painted rather than the WHOLE car.

So basically, what can I do to stop and fix the hazing? And what do do for moderate scratches and rock nicks on the front?

Thanks! Tommy-
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Old May 18, 2006 | 01:14 AM
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I wish I could see some pics, but it sounds like the clear coat is going bad. Sadly, there is little that can be done.
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Old May 18, 2006 | 01:51 PM
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Originally Posted by bogus
I wish I could see some pics, but it sounds like the clear coat is going bad. Sadly, there is little that can be done.

you know what it looks like when you get spider web over paint? Like REAL spiders silk? It looks like that on the top.

I can put wax on, and it looks PERFECT for about a day. Its not chalky though....
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Old May 18, 2006 | 01:52 PM
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I would use a PC7424 Random buffer with the Menzerna IP and FPII products. Use orange pad with IP and white pad with FPII and it should help it alot.
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Old May 18, 2006 | 01:55 PM
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Wet sanding and a buffing.
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Old May 18, 2006 | 02:33 PM
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Sounds like you don't have a single, simple fix. Repaint part of the car and unless you have it color matched the paint will be different shades, particularly on red, gray and black colored cars. Buffing can have dramatic effect, but if the crazing is deep enough you have to go thru the clear coat to totally remove it, which means you then have to repaint anyway. Personally, I would sand the entire car down and repaint it, but then I have the advantage of being able to do it myself. And a lot of the work involved is something that anyone can do with minimal knowledge - it is grunt work that is time consuming but not technical.

Here's a couple of alternatives to getting a decent, professional quality paint job, at a reasonable price:
A
1. Do the labor - prep the car
2. sand and repair any needed areas
3. prep it again
4. mask all areas not to be painted
5. remove masking and final sand, then polish car

B
Almost every major metro area has two places where body work and paint are taught. These places teach how to do these things, are supervised by experts, and take in work where they basically charge for the materials and not the labor, and where they usually guarantee their work. The primary disadvantage is they may take longer to get work done. These places are high schools with automotive programs, prisons, and specialty junior/community type colleges (vocational).
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