Overheating STILL.....
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 13,515
Likes: 11
From: Fisher, IL
Overheating STILL.....
Fans are working and i burped the coolant lines while adding more to the top reservoir.
It happens when I idle for too long or am in stop and go traffic. Gets all the way to red line but haven't had any warnings go off yet. if i am traveling at a good speed the temps are fine...
Any other suggestions on what i could try?
It happens when I idle for too long or am in stop and go traffic. Gets all the way to red line but haven't had any warnings go off yet. if i am traveling at a good speed the temps are fine...
Any other suggestions on what i could try?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 6,564
Likes: 6
From: Woodstock Georgia
Did you?
Open the air bleeder screws by TB (passenger side) to get the trapped air out of the motor? Look thru opening on pass side radiator shroud to be sure there is no debris in there?
Open the air bleeder screws by TB (passenger side) to get the trapped air out of the motor? Look thru opening on pass side radiator shroud to be sure there is no debris in there?
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 13,515
Likes: 11
From: Fisher, IL
I opened the screw and it was just leeking out a little. went to start the car and then it was coming out pretty good. Tightened the screw back and then put the top back on the high resovor tank.
That might be the problem since i didn't bleed the line with the lid on.... i look through the little crack to see if any debri was there and i didn't see much if any. maybe 1/4 of a leaf and some dirt or something but not enough to make it over heat that fast if not moving.
That might be the problem since i didn't bleed the line with the lid on.... i look through the little crack to see if any debri was there and i didn't see much if any. maybe 1/4 of a leaf and some dirt or something but not enough to make it over heat that fast if not moving.
Bench Racer
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 4,201
Likes: 15
From: Palm Beach Gardens FL
St. Jude '03 thru 14,'25
Did you check for debris between the AC condenser and the radiator? There's a little opening in the on the passenger side that you can shine a flashlight through to see. Even if there isn't anything apparent, grime gets packed in between the fins. The best thing to do is physically remove the radiator and hose it out. What I did was wrap plastic around the Opti, sprayed Gunk engine cleaner into the radiator from underneath and through the aforementioned opening, let it sit for an hour or so and then hosed it out. I did the same to the AC condenser....
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 13,515
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From: Fisher, IL
the car is a 96 but has over 100k miles. I think i will try to clean out the radiator. Could i just use a blower and blow and of the debris out from the back? or do i have to take it all appart and hose it down?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 6,564
Likes: 6
From: Woodstock Georgia
Ok, air is bled and radiator looks decent. But like Tobijohn said it may still need some cleaning. I am a lot lazier than he is and cleaned mine the lazy way. I simply took an old wrapping paper tube, sorta formed a 90* opening on one end and taped the other end to my shop vac. It was amazing what I sucked out of an other wise clean looking radiator.
But let me ask you something else first. Using the digital temp gauge what hi temp are you getting. Don't forget the main fan doesn't come on until 227-228 degrees and the aux fan at about 236-237, which on the analog gauge is pretty close to the red line area. GM feels that is optimum eng op temp for best emissions, I don't agree, but then what do I know. Anytime you turn the ac on the fan comes on and cools it down. Personally I rarely sit in traffic, but still plan to get the fan temps reprogrammed to come on sooner (ecm programing, not a chip).
Hope this helps.
But let me ask you something else first. Using the digital temp gauge what hi temp are you getting. Don't forget the main fan doesn't come on until 227-228 degrees and the aux fan at about 236-237, which on the analog gauge is pretty close to the red line area. GM feels that is optimum eng op temp for best emissions, I don't agree, but then what do I know. Anytime you turn the ac on the fan comes on and cools it down. Personally I rarely sit in traffic, but still plan to get the fan temps reprogrammed to come on sooner (ecm programing, not a chip).
Hope this helps.
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 13,515
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From: Fisher, IL
The lowest it goes is the first notch past the 185 mark. Then when i let it sit for 5min it goes all the way to the begining of the white/black checkard area. and in stop/go traffic it usally can be found in between the two.
I will try the shop vac thing and see if that helps clean some crap out. Along with bleeding it again to make sure i did it right.
I don't use the digital read out but will definitly check it out to make sure it isn't my guage messing up. Since i never get a warning or think it is that hot.
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 8,753
Likes: 9
From: Louisiana
My 95 never gets that hot. I might see it just pass the 230-240 mark idling. You will know when it gets too hot. The engine will be sluggish and start acting like it wants to die from a 91 vette experiance. I would clean around the radiator and if nothing there and you get the air out, and see no coolant leaks, then I would assume faulty thermostat.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 6,564
Likes: 6
From: Woodstock Georgia
Sounds like a good plan. When bleeding it wrap some rags around the bleeder so the a/f doesn't drip down on the opti. I do it engine off, then engine running, then lastly engine running and t/stat open (over 195 in my case) When you get everything else doen and start running it watch the digital gauge closely to see when the fan kicks in. Let us all know after that.
ps--the 'upper reservoir' is actually a coolant surge tank.
ps--the 'upper reservoir' is actually a coolant surge tank.
Bench Racer
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 4,201
Likes: 15
From: Palm Beach Gardens FL
St. Jude '03 thru 14,'25
Originally Posted by tparkhi2
...I don't use the digital read out but will definitly check it out to make sure it isn't my guage messing up. Since i never get a warning or think it is that hot.
As for cleaning out the radiator, I should have removed it to clean it out thoroughly but I didn't. Just sprayed Gunk in there and hosed it out. I'll bet repeating the process would be better but as I said, better still would be to remove it and clean. It's not a complicated procedure but I'm a lazy guy who's jinxed with tools (something always seems to strip or break) so I did it the way I previously descibed.
Racer
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 269
Likes: 0
From: Newport News VA
Cruise-In VII Veteran
Originally Posted by RRT vette
Could also be a stuck thermostat if not changed lately.
Racer
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 269
Likes: 0
From: Newport News VA
Cruise-In VII Veteran
Originally Posted by sebesta1990
This whole discussion has given me some ideas. This whole temp thing with mine is freakin me out too
Racer
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 433
Likes: 0
From: Gig Harbor WA
A couple of comments:
Remove the radiator cap and start the engine, then run it up to operating temperature. Note your temperature readings. Insert a quality mercury thermometer in the coolant and check the temperature.
You may be surprized. When my digital gauge indicated 210° F, the thermometer read 170°.
I pulled my radiator and the area beneath was fairly clean. I have seen photos of others though, and you won't believe the amount of derbis that can be sucked up. Our cars are road vacuums! Warning: Be extremely careful of the radiator fins. They are more fragile than a virgin's heart. Do not touch them with anything, even a feather.
When I fixed my blown head gasket, temps went down 10°. I think it had been leaking slightly for a long time - years perhaps.
Wetter water did me no good. It was a waste of money. Others report very good results.
Regards,
Rich
Remove the radiator cap and start the engine, then run it up to operating temperature. Note your temperature readings. Insert a quality mercury thermometer in the coolant and check the temperature.
You may be surprized. When my digital gauge indicated 210° F, the thermometer read 170°.
I pulled my radiator and the area beneath was fairly clean. I have seen photos of others though, and you won't believe the amount of derbis that can be sucked up. Our cars are road vacuums! Warning: Be extremely careful of the radiator fins. They are more fragile than a virgin's heart. Do not touch them with anything, even a feather.
When I fixed my blown head gasket, temps went down 10°. I think it had been leaking slightly for a long time - years perhaps.
Wetter water did me no good. It was a waste of money. Others report very good results.
Regards,
Rich
Last edited by Cap'n Rich; May 27, 2006 at 11:19 PM.
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2005
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From: Fisher, IL
OKAY.....there is a little more debris in there then i thought. still i don't think it would have been enough to make it run this how. I tried the shop hose with a wrapping paper tube bent to 90 degrees and it was too hard and started to bend the ridges some so i stopped that. then i had a soft brush that could get in there and it just didn't get anything out. How hard is it to take the shroud off? i think i need more room or a better plan then what i am doing now.
Bench Racer
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 4,201
Likes: 15
From: Palm Beach Gardens FL
St. Jude '03 thru 14,'25
Use the Advanced Search function, check both current and archive boxes, type in "radiator removal" and select the entire C4 section. There's all the info you'll need....
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 13,515
Likes: 11
From: Fisher, IL
Here are some pictures i took. Don't know if you can make anything out but there are just small pieces and a few leaf stems sticking out.
my filter is a little dirty so i might get another one of those.
my filter is a little dirty so i might get another one of those.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 6,564
Likes: 6
From: Woodstock Georgia
Originally Posted by tparkhi2
OKAY.....there is a little more debris in there then i thought. still i don't think it would have been enough to make it run this how. I tried the shop hose with a wrapping paper tube bent to 90 degrees and it was too hard and started to bend the ridges some so i stopped that. then i had a soft brush that could get in there and it just didn't get anything out. How hard is it to take the shroud off? i think i need more room or a better plan then what i am doing now.
Last edited by aminnich; May 27, 2006 at 09:44 PM.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 972
Likes: 0
From: Springdale AR
Heres what I did.
1) Removed Radiator, cleaned.
2) Installed wire mesh in front of radiator to catch all future dibris.
3) Installed 180 deg. thermostat.
4) Installed this: http://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb....Z5Z5Z50000050F
That was 2 yrs ago+ And I have never seen my temps over 210 since
1) Removed Radiator, cleaned.
2) Installed wire mesh in front of radiator to catch all future dibris.
3) Installed 180 deg. thermostat.
4) Installed this: http://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb....Z5Z5Z50000050F
That was 2 yrs ago+ And I have never seen my temps over 210 since
Last edited by vette92_1; May 27, 2006 at 10:14 PM.