..a stroker, if you go with a crank which is balanced internal/internal, can you go with a neutral balance/lightweight flywheel?? I'm trying to put together a fairly solid list of options that are safe to go with. I've already bought a Hot cam kit, and a new opti. Any suggestions for cranks/rods/bearing selection?

The car is going to be a driver, not a race car. So, I'm looking for performance that will still get me to work, if you know what I mean. Also, what long tube options are out there? Are they cat compatible, or not?

I'm just fishing for some advice as to what's best from some of the more experienced Vette owners/builders/racers. Thanks in advance folks.
:thumbsup:

-DarkMatter

 

Not sure about the flywheel but I think going with all neutral balanced parts is the way to go. Just a lot easier to deal with.

For the parts, well choose your poison, there's a myriad of stuff out there for 383 builds.

We just finished a 383 build and used all Eagle forged stuff except the pistons. They were Keith Blacks, we were told we would hear piston slap at cold start up (I'm not even sure what that is) however we heard nothing but a smooth running machine on the first crank of the first fire.

Honestly if I had an LT-1 or other I would think about cast parts as opposed to all forged stuff in the bottom end. For a daily driver anyway, if you're going to race a lot get forged. You can spend the saved money on balancing, blueprinting, heads, intake, headers...whatever.

If money is no object go for broke!

There was a Camaro guy building a 383 the same time we were with cast stuff, he spent the saved money on Trick Flow heads. It must have been a good decision because he laid down 500HP at the rear wheels.

 

What ALLT4 said about balancing. I am in the middle of a 383 build. An engine to be used much like yours. I went with a Scat iron crank and hyper Seal Power pistons. Some don't like hyper pistons but I have been flogging a set of 30 overs for 5 years and haven't hurt them yet.

 

The scat crank you're using, is it a forged or cast piece? I was actually probably going to go with an Eagle rotating assembly. There were two I was looking at, with a price differential of about $500. Both have cast cranks, and forged rods. The difference is one has forged pistons, the other is hyper.

My builder can also get as many parts as I feel comfortable with him providing. We're supposed to have a sit-down this week to make more concrete plans as pertains to materials.

My main concern is internal/neutral balance. I want to be able to use a single mass, lighter-than-stock flywheel. Is your car an A4 or a ZF6? If a MN6, what clutch are you using?? It's unfortunate that money is an object for me right now. I'm in a fine balance. I have only so much for the car right now, as I have home improvements I also have going on simultaneously.

In any case, thanks to both of you for your replies. I really appreciate it. I hope you had a nice father's day (if it applies).

-DarkMatter

 

I believe you're trying to compare external balance and internal balance right? Ours was an automatic and I haven't had to mess with my ZF6 yet. Maybe someone else can chime in on that.

What we did was have the rotating assembly balanced on it own meaning any flywheel, damper, flex plate whatever is attached to the crank must be neutral balanced or be neutral from the get go. I suppose that's internal balanced.

Frankly I don't understand why anyone would want to mess with an externally balanced motor, meaning the damper and or flywheel must have weights or be weighted a certain way to offset the crank out of balance. Thereby bringing the whole shebang to neutral balance. What giant pain in the ***. Then if you want to change any part attached to the crank you have to have it match balanced to the part you're replacing or at least have it checked.

With an internal balanced motor you just buy a part with zero or neutral balance have it checked or just slap it on and hope it's a quality part.

If you're buying new parts have them all zero balanced and all should be well.

I think this external balance stuff is getting to be obsolete, who in their right mind would buy an external balanced crank unless you're replacing one to keep your old stuff. Then again if you need a new crank most likely your doing a complete rebuild so whay not make the future easier on yourself and go with all zero balance.

Someone plaese correct me if I'm wrong on anything but this is the way I understand it. I'm no machinist.