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Your one of the most trusting people I know. What I'd be interested in is once you call them, and "if" they give you the VATS code. Then go to your local Radio Shack and verify it. I bet they will be different or that the Chev dealer won't know. Just my thoughts..
VATS has nothing to do with a car that is already started. If it was possible to pull the key out, it would remain started.
Well i figured that if they just made the keys no more then a day ago then they should know what they put in the keys to fit the new cyclinder. I don't know for sure but i'm sure there is an old multimeter around here somewhere. if not there is one at work and i'm sure i can figure it out.
but i have two keys and one that doesn't even have the little code thing that the dealership left in the car when i picked it up....
VATS has nothing to do with a car that is already started. If it was possible to pull the key out, it would remain started.[/QUOTE]
Not completely true. I had VATS problems one time and tried to push start it. The engine would not fire with the VATS tripped no matter how far it was pushed. I was just curious if anyone knew what the SYS on the instrument cluster meant? Obvious some type of indication of the problem I'm having probably and maybe it would guide me in the right direction to start. I hate changing the starter for no reason if it's something else. Thanks Al
VATS has nothing to do with a car that is already started. If it was possible to pull the key out, it would remain started.
Originally Posted by Alzado77
Not completely true. I had VATS problems one time and tried to push start it. The engine would not fire with the VATS tripped no matter how far it was pushed.
Just curious, why would you "push start" a car that already started??? As I said "VATS has nothing to do with a car that is already started
Just curious, why would you "push start" a car that already started??? As I said "VATS has nothing to do with a car that is already started
My point is that if the VATS is tripped you can't push start it. I've tried. I don't believe the problem I have now is VATS related for the simple reason that I can push start the car when it won't crank and it fires right up. When the VATS was tripped with the old problem I had you could try to push start it all day long but it would not start probably because the VATS disables the ignition or fuel pump. I was not talking about push starting a car that was already running. This problem I have now is obviously not VATS related. Maybe my thread was not clear enough. Just wanted to know what the SYS on my instrument cluster indicates?
If you have a VATS problem the injector won't fire thus no start. The SYS is a code that needs to be pulled and will lead you to a problem with wiring/connector/sensor
The door switch that turns the interior lights on and off also activates the alarm system. When that switch goes bad, (and mine seems to about every 9 months or so) it can occur that after you stop the car, get out and close the door the car "thinks" the alarm, or anti-theft operation should be activated after 2 minutes. It thinks the door is still open. Try the following. Close and lock both doors with the key. Then unlock the drivers door, with the key, get in and start your car. Works for me.