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I know a lot of people have done this procedure, I was attempting to but I had a few questions. I'm using http://www.thirdgen.org/tpimod2
for directions but it doesnt say when to remove the paper clip from the ALDL. Also, I'm struggling with locating the "IAC Connector". Any input is much appreciated!
When you insert the connector and turn the ignition on wait one minute and disconnect the IAC connector (located on the bottom of the throttle body it has a square connector with 4 pins), you can get to it on the passenger side. You take the paperclip out after disconnecting the IAC connector, then follow the steps.
Right, and also be sure to remove IAC connector before turning the key off, or it will retract again. So, short the ALDL plug, turn key on, wait a few seconds, remove the IAC plug, turn key off.
I did locate it. Its all broken and chipped. I'm not even sure I plugged it back in right, I didnt see any type of slot or anything to insure it goes back in right. I also noticed that it doesnt fit very snug, when I pushed it it a little harder I hear a small 'tick' sound coming from below somewhere like some electronic gadget was engaging and disengaging when I did it.
I just replaced the IAC yesterday afternoon on my 87. While I was on the Hot Rod Power Tour I started to get a surging idle, specially when I was coming to a stop, the idle would raise itself a couple hundred RPM's. GM Performance (free help on the Tour) took the TB off and diagnosed the problem as the IAC. They cleaned it and it worked for awhile but started doing the same thing a few days later. When I got home I odered a new one and replaced it yesterday and it's running great. Didn't do any of the "paper clip" and "torx" adjustments that your talking about in this thread and it seems to be running great with a nice smooth idle.
I just replaced the IAC yesterday afternoon on my 87. While I was on the Hot Rod Power Tour I started to get a surging idle, specially when I was coming to a stop, the idle would raise itself a couple hundred RPM's. GM Performance (free help on the Tour) took the TB off and diagnosed the problem as the IAC. They cleaned it and it worked for awhile but started doing the same thing a few days later. When I got home I odered a new one and replaced it yesterday and it's running great. Didn't do any of the "paper clip" and "torx" adjustments that your talking about in this thread and it seems to be running great with a nice smooth idle.
Really? Thats exactly what mines doing. Well, a surging idle and just kinda rough. Can you post a link to the part you ordered?
Really? Thats exactly what mines doing. Well, a surging idle and just kinda rough. Can you post a link to the part you ordered?
ncook,
Here's the page from my parts book. You buy it in a KIT which consists of the valve and washer (parts 70 & 71). Part Nr# 7503213. My club has a Chevrolet/Chrysler dealer owner as our sponser. Club members can buy parts at a reduced rate and I won't get into what I paid but the slip had an original price of $87. You might be better off at NAPA or another auto store. The throttle body does have to come off to exchange the valve but while it's off take the opportunity to clean out the TB of any built-up carbon and to replace the molded water hose that sits right under the TB and attaches from the block to the TB, or you can run a bypass doing away with the hot water going through the TB (see TB bypss in other threads). The molded hose number is #10108509. You can't use a regular 5/8" hose because where it bends, the regualar straignt hose will fold instead of making the turn.
I've always wondered this but never took the time to look...but is there actually a small "chamber" or "pocket" under the TB plate as in the diagram above (item 41)? Looks like there is a gasket there also (item 43) and if there is, what is it for?
Think of it as a Throttle Body heater. Some people have it bypassed to keep the fuel charge cooler, some say that has no effect on the engine. I have heard that it keeps the Throttle Body from freezing in the winter.