I have read about different cars running warm I have a 92 convertible
with low miles. If I am running down the highway it runs about 160 to
180 and general driving around town it runs around 200 but if it is in bad stop and go traffic and it is 80 + degrees out side the temp will climb to 250 it has not over heated and as soon as you get out on a
road and start moving good again it cools right back down again.
This just doesn't seem right. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated
thank you.

 

Sounds fairly normal for summer driving. I don't have quite that much range, but I don't sit still very long in traffic. Also my low end only drops to about 190 on the highway while running the air.

 

Let the car idle and see at what temp fan 1 and 2 come on at.

 

LOL see my 4 page thread i am having the same EXACT issue. I am starting to think its jsut the way it is unless you screw with the factory set up

 

Looks like it. These repetetive threads probably run all summer.

 

Seems like everyone is posting about this lately. These cars run hot. Aslong as the fans come on to cool it down dont worry.

 

 

250 is way higher than I'd be comfortable with. You're into the danger zone there. Definitely check to see what the fans are doing.

Be well,

SJW

 

 

my experience is the the fans dont due ****, I sayt his because all you have to do is have the A/C on which everybody does anyway when its 90 out and then your fans are on. If these fans did their job then why would this ever happen. You'd think youd never go above 210 or so.

I am telling you i can see the entire area between the radiator and the condensor through the opening in the side of the shroud and there is nothing there. I can also tell you that the fans work and are on as i have felt them myself. Also if the T stat was stuck would not my coolant stay cool not get boiling hot?? And if the radiator was fried then would the car not continue to heat up even when being driven

I am probably ignorant here but i still dont get any of it. Every C4 i have owned (three) did this or similar to it. Every C5 i have owned (two) run at the highway at 199 and goes to maybe 215 tops in abuse and a dead stop in 90 degree weather. I am starting to just think the C4 cooling system sucks

 

my experience is the the fans dont due ****, I sayt his because all you have to do is have the A/C on which everybody does anyway when its 90 out and then your fans are on. If these fans did their job then why would this ever happen. You'd think youd never go above 210 or so.

I am telling you i can see the entire area between the radiator and the condensor through the opening in the side of the shroud and there is nothing there. I can also tell you that the fans work and are on as i have felt them myself. Also if the T stat was stuck would not my coolant stay cool not get boiling hot?? And if the radiator was fried then would the car not continue to heat up even when being driven

I am probably ignorant here but i still dont get any of it. Every C4 i have owned (three) did this or similar to it. Every C5 i have owned (two) run at the highway at 199 and goes to maybe 215 tops in abuse and a dead stop in 90 degree weather. I am starting to just think the C4 cooling system sucks

 

Got it!

 

to damn hot. And NO, if your thermostat were stuck open it could just keep getting hotter, the coolant has no time in the radiator to cool down if the thermo is stuck open.

 

Cooling fans are only going to do so much if the problem is in another area of your cooling system. It's like expecting an ace bandage around your arm to heal a broken ankle.

Generally speaking, I've found 9 times out of 10 that an overheating issue can be resolved with a good flush and a new factory recommended temp thermostat.

1. Check your anti-freeze mixture with a hydrometer. It's THE cheapest, easiest test you'll ever do. $5 is going to tell you if you have the correct water/anti freeze ratio.

2. Assuming you have no leaks and you know your fan is working, check the front of radiator visually for blockage or bad fins. Fins can be straightened with a radiator comb if they're not too bad. If you have a lot of bent fins from rocks or debris, then airflow through the radiator is being restricted.

3. A thermostat is just like a dam on a bridge. At a specified temperature, the dam opens and allows water to flow. A thermostat is designed more for allowing a car to heat up to proper operating temperature than it is to just "cool" the motor.

Let car get up to operating temperature. If you have a 195 degree thermostat in your car, that means the thermostat opens and allows coolant to flow from the radiator through the motor at 195*. Once your gauge gets up around 195, coolant should be flowing and you should see temp drop on your gauge. If it keeps climbing-- stat is probably not opening and should be replaced.

You can also grab onto the top rad. hose with a rag to tell if coolant is flowing. Before thermostat opens, (or if thermostat isn't opening once heated up) the hose will be hard and you'll be able to feel the water pressure in it. If stat is working correctly, the hose will feel soft since coolant is flowing through it and the water pressure isn't backed up.

4. Check your oil dipstick for any signs of water or anti freeze to rule out a bad gasket. Then look in your overflow tank and radiator for any brown sludge (oil). Free, doesn't cost a thing, no need for a mechanic.

5. Flush cooling system (forward & back) with a good flush. Again, pretty easy, it's just getting at a couple of hoses.

6. Replace your thermostat with the recommended temp and buy a good brand if not the OEM.

7. Refill with proper type of coolant and the recommended mixture of water/coolant. I usually add about 50 % of the systems coolant capacity with anti freeze first, because you still have water left in the block after a flush.

All of the above should cost you less than $30-50 Max and it's really not that difficult.

Good advice is only good if you take it.