Recharging A/C
Also, I take it my 86 coupe is runing R12. If I change the type of freon do I have to change the whole system?
Thanks
Bought a kit called EZ Charge. Kit came with three cans of freon/oil(R134a), adapters, charge hose with pressure gage, and a cd with a outstanding video on how to do it. Followed the directions and in about 20 minutes had nice cold air. I would highly recommend this kit.
One less issue to deal with now. Now to get the radio working.
Also, I take it my 86 coupe is runing R12. If I change the type of freon do I have to change the whole system?
Thanks
Bought a kit called EZ Charge. Kit came with three cans of freon/oil(R134a), adapters, charge hose with pressure gage, and a cd with a outstanding video on how to do it. Followed the directions and in about 20 minutes had nice cold air. I would highly recommend this kit.
One less issue to deal with now. Now to get the radio working.
In theory and in some practices, you can get away with an evac and re-charge. However, it is best to replace some components after the system has be evac'd: o-rings, orifice tube, and accumulator. Depending on how long your system has been in operation the next component to replace would be the evaporator (it comes with a new orifice tube). The next item in the system to really improve the efficiency is the condensor. It is not necessary to replace the compressor unless it is failing. The reason for this is you only recharge the system to 80-85% of the original factory charge for your system, this is done to account for the higher head pressures of the R134a thus not putting excess strain on your existing compressor and AC components.
The nice thing about the conversion is now if you have a component failure, you can do the repair rather than a service shop and recharge it. And you have the convenience of readily getting service products from your local autoparts store. Also your helping the environment by not using the more harmful R12.
Yes you can obtain your certificate to handle R12, however you then must locate available R12 and if not local wait for it to ship. It is also not going to be as less expensive as the R134a is. And you still need to use proper handling and disposal of the R12.
In my opinion it is a much preferred move to do the conversion. And also in my opinion this notion that R134a will not cool as well is simply not true. I can say that when it's 90+ something outside with upper 90% humidity, a converted system will freeze you out and you'll be adjusting the temp up to stay comfortable.
Check your vent temperatures with a good quality thermometer with the system on max, you should have really low temps right there. (sorry it's early and I can't remember the vent temp you should see).
Congrats on a successfuly repair. If you do get leaks don't freak, I'd start with o-rings and go from there based on components listed above. Also I presume you used the ester oil based kit and if the system was evac preloading the system with ester at the right components and coating the o-rings will ensure a longer life system.









