well guys i hit a speed bump hard and cracked my floor pan the crack is not bad and there are no holes. i already have the fiberglasss mat so i ordered some evercoat smc epoxy resin. when it gets here i am going to pull the carpet and repair inside as well as out side takes a little longer but it will be right. and this crack is in the curve of the floor. this is the one thing i do not like about these cars. when i bought it i had to repair a crack in the floor pan from my freinds drive way and now this. The cost of daily driving a vette i guess

 

Just put some masking tape on the under side so the reisen doesn't leak
All over the garage and it doesn't take as much epoxie to fill the crack.

 

Would you be willing to post pics of your process? I've got a cracked passenger storage compartment because of going over a parking median. Stinking cars are so low, never even saw it. Anyway, I'd appreciate it! Thanks.

 

i will take some phots from the top side when i do inside the under side will be hard as i do not have a lift but the process is the same. so so yes i will put photos and directions on the site

 

I will be doing the same thing this winter (I hate that word). Pictures would be a great help along with info on the resin other materials.

 

I cracked the fiberglass under the drivers side this summer (jack slipped). I bought a fiberglass repair kit to fix it, sanded it down, then painted it black. You can't even tell its a repair job. It's not that hard to do at all. Just remember to wear some sort of gloves. It is extremely sticky!

 

not hard to do but you have to use a special resin the stuff at auto zone will not work long it is not made for smc wich is what our cars are made of

 

The big key is EPOXY resin. Repair is pretty straight forward. I've just finished mine and have lots of photos if anyone is interested.

I was pretty scared when I first tackled it but I built a couple of composite airplanes back in the early eighties and the motor skills came right back. The stuff's VERY forgiving.

Mine turned out much better than the one they did recently in Vette or Corvette Fever. (Can't recall which.)

Go to www.aircraftspruce.com and order the "safe-t-poxy" and micro balloons, along with a small quantity of 3.7 oz cloth.

Using a die grinder, clean up the ragged edges of the hole. (If it's only cracked, you can use super glue (no s__t) and just slightly groove the crack on both interior and exterior. Flood the crack with super glue and you've got a sound, structural repair. (Ref "How to Repair Plastic Bodywork" by Kurt Lammon, page 36 under SMC repairs.)

If the floor is holed, make a single-ply layup for the exterior. That will create a basin into which you will fill, from inside the car, a slurry mixture of resin and balloons. (The balloons are hollow glass spheres and, when mixed with the epoxy resin, create a structural material. It's in the Structural Repair Manuals for each of our aircraft fleets.)

Once the slurry has cured, typically the same time as a fabric/resin layup, you can sand/sculpt it to shape.

Rotsa ruck, fryboy. Holler if you need more info.

 

i though about super glue put decided i wanted to put some fiberglass cloth in and around the crack as to spread the load over the structure better

 

Smart move.

 

i am using evercoat resin about 40 dollars a pint there is no way to cheap out on this car i plan on owning it forever. even i was selling it i would fix it right it may not be pretty as you will be able to see the fabric under the car where i put it on the floor but inside the car part you will never be able to tell because the carpet will cover it up, but i will ruff sand it and paint it white

 

Ace Hardware has the white pigment for the resin ,so you don't have to paint it.You just mix it with the resin .

 

cool, i will check on the dye

 

An important thing to remember is to locate all the pieces from the floor pan, try to glue them together perfectly. i Like to use a cyanoacrylate ester called Zap-A-Gap CA+ from Pacer. This is an instant glue used in hobbies like RC airplanes etc.
What is cool of this glue is that it bonds even if the part is a little bit oily or fuel soaked. Not that you would like that to happen because a clean part will give more adhesion to the glue.

After you glue the "puzzle" back in the floor pan I suggest that you soak all the cracks with this product and put some bicarbonate on it, spread a liberal part on it , wait till it is wet and blow away excess bicarbonate.
This will seal the cracks, provide some adhesion and will allow you to lay the fiberglass and soak it with whatever choice of resin you use without having it leak.
By the way, poliester resin is a very cheap choice and gives a very instantaneus result because it hardens very fast , but epoxy resins are far better and give grater results. Problem is cost and time to harden which usually is about 24 hours compared to 30 minutes of poliester resin.

Epoxy resins will absorb more of the vibrations that the car produces and this is a great thing because the resonance generated can cause poliester resin to crack or loose the bond with the sustrate.

I like epoxy resins from Ciba Geigy, they produce great products that work well everytime. I have used cheap epoxy resins just to find out that they will not cure so I have to clean my mess and prepare everything again.
Good luck with this proyect!