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In pic #2 (Above), is this a valve? I don't understand how it works.. Anybody?
This is the actual cruise control vacuum "dump" switch/valve that I removed from the brake pedal bracket.
I removed the existing/old vacuum hose from it, installed a new hose and ran it through the firewall to the servo. After doing all that (fishing it through the firewall, etc.) I haven't had the energy to try it out again though.
The pic shows the two prong electrical connector I referred to in an earlier post. Does anyone know if this is the correct dump switch for the cruise on a 96 LT1??
What about nothing being plugged into this unit. Surely someone knows what's the deal here.
Look up parts at www.acdelco.com and they x-reference for what works on what.
Digital Dash (through '89) has an additional item to check - Ambient Temperature Override Switch which opens below 32 degrees and kills the cruise circuit. Make sure there's a good ground on this circuit which run's from D3 to the switch and through the Big Connector behind the battery (through '88 for '89 , it runs over to the ECM harness and out through the right side of the Firewall behind the head). Make sure there's continuity through the switch back to D7 at the cluster. Switch is on the Big Connector in the Driver's compartment.
Sorry to double-dip on this, but it's driving me up a wall.
I tried all the great suggestions posted and still the cruise on my 96 LT1 won't work. So today I took the car to Chevy.
The technician had it for about five hours and he, too, couldn't find the cause. The only thing he came up with was that since two of my Low Tire Pressure Warning System sensors had been damaged during a recent tire swap, the cruise may now be deactivated.
So I'm wondering if a LTPWS dash light will cause the cruise to de-activate.
BTW, he didn't have the electrical schematic to trace the wiring, so I've got to supply CHEVY with the 1996 Service Manual which, I hope, has the schematic.
Wow mine didnt work either when I got it last yr, but all this is awesome information. Now to try and fix it.......or let someone else try and fix it......Sounds like an all too common problem..
Wow mine didnt work either when I got it last yr, but all this is awesome information. Now to try and fix it.......or let someone else try and fix it......Sounds like an all too common problem..
Right. From what I've been reading it's a fairly common problem with cars 10+ years old like ours.
When I removed the vacuum hose leading to the brake pedal switch I noticed that the engine-end of the hose really showed signs of its age, but the part of the hose under the dash was like brand new.
I thought for sure I'd found the cause, but even after installing a new hose, still a no-go.
You can be sure I'll post the culprit once it's found so, hopefully, no one else will have to walk this road.
The switch that attaches to the brake pedal can wear out. I replaced mine. $15. from the dealer. It takes about 10 minutes. The switch is threaded and the nylon threads seem to wear over time preventing the switch from being held snugly by the holder. I would check there first.
Mine was just as easy. I have a '95 with 6-speed and it was the cut out switch on the clutch pedal that was the trouble. It's on a thread shaft and all I did was give it about one more turn in and the cruise is working just fine.
Thanks guys for bringing up this topic, the one in my 87 doesn't work either but at least I will have a starting point.
At the moment, trying to get the windshield wipers to operate. Replaced the switch and that didn't do it so bought a new windshield wiper motor and hope that clears up the problem.
The cruise control issue is next as I do a fair amout of Freeway driving and want to get that problem resolved as we will be driving across country next year to South Dakota to visit the wifes family.
Will post my findings on the CC problem when completed.
Mine was just as easy. I have a '95 with 6-speed and it was the cut out switch on the clutch pedal that was the trouble. It's on a thread shaft and all I did was give it about one more turn in and the cruise is working just fine.
What if you just cap off the servo vacuum port which leads to the brake switch; cap it off at the servo. Won't that eliminate the switch as a possible cause?
Once capped off and the cruise STILL doesn't work, that would mean the cause must be somewhere else.
Sure the switch and/or its vacuum hose may still be bad but in that case there could be at least three causes for the malfunction: #1: the switch; #2 the vacuum hose between the servo and the switch and: #3 what ever else that kept it from working when the vacuum to the switch was capped off.
I finally broke down and took my car to Chevy Monday. Technican checked everything EXCEPT the cruise control module, and all checked fine.
Chevy wanted to charge me $89.00 an hour to access the cruise control module, which is buried under the passenger side dash. Chevy estimated it would take TEN HOURS - you can do the simple math on that.
PLUS, the replacement module would cost me $321.00 plus tax from Chevy. Module part number is 25140723.
Well, I guess you can figure I took a pass on that offer. I've since found the module online - gmpartsdirect.com for $151.00. So unless I can buy one off a Forum member for less, I plan to order it in a few weeks.
I can then take the time needed to remove the dash and swap out the modules. If changing the module doesn't do the trick, I guess I'll have to learn to live without cruise.
Chevy charged me $89.00 for one hour to do what they did.
I finally broke down and took my car to Chevy Monday. Technican checked everything EXCEPT the cruise control module, and all checked fine.
Chevy wanted to charge me $89.00 an hour to access the cruise control module, which is buried under the passenger side dash. Chevy estimated it would take TEN HOURS - you can do the simple math on that.
PLUS, the replacement module would cost me $321.00 plus tax from Chevy. Module part number is 25140723.
Well, I guess you can figure I took a pass on that offer. I've since found the module online - gmpartsdirect.com for $151.00. So unless I can buy one off a Forum member for less, I plan to order it in a few weeks.
I can then take the time needed to remove the dash and swap out the modules. If changing the module doesn't do the trick, I guess I'll have to learn to live without cruise.
Chevy charged me $89.00 for one hour to do what they did.
Jake
GGGRRRrrrrrrrrr I hate that CHIT man.... My local Chevy dealer charges $150.00 hr, needless to say I have found a quality vett shop for less. But then again, everything cost more in CA. My cruse is out so I hope you keep us posted on your progress, take pic's when you do go into the dash and PM me if you would....
On a '95 c4, the cruise control didn't work well, and was inaccurate. That is, it would not hold the selected speed, but would sometimes hold another speed but drift around that speed. Thanks to the forum for the various diagrams which helped to understand the basics underhood.
Problem was a fallen clip from the cable guide out of the servo. Snapped it back into its' retainer and all is well.
Sounds like a similar situation I had. Mine was cracking in the engine compartment but wanted to replace it before it completely broke. I also used a in line connector inside the car. I could not get the hose off either. The problem I ran into was the standard vacuum hose had a larger outside diameter and could not get it thru the rubber feed thru in the fire wall. I ended up slightly enlarging the hole (drill) and with a slight amount of lubrication I got it thru.
I was not going to GM for a special piece of vacuum hose.
Also; When my check valve cracked, my A/C vents were having a problem but my cruse worked OK.
I used std. 7/16 hose and it worked just fine. It wasn't easy (but not impossible) to get it through the grommet on the firewall. I cut the new hose at an angle and lubed it with vaseline - after a few minutes of persuading, it finally got to the other side of the firewall. Cut the end square and mounted it to the servo. The hardest part about this job is getting yourself wedged into the footwell to connect to the vacuum break switch.
on your 88, if all checks out good, its probably a transister on your cluster.i dont have schematics yet, or iwould tell you which one it is. another member on the forum, might have the info.
on about every c4 I looked at.it was the same story. CRUISE CONTROL DOESN'T WORK. OR ,REALLY? IT WAS THIS MORNING? OH YEA, mine doesn't either. was this a bad design or did i just pick out EVERY CAR IN THE VALLEY that had a problem with the cruise? do they burn out after a day of 135+-or so mph? or whats the deal? is it a hard fix or is it not worth the trouble. i only question because i am on the freeway alot.
Mine's not working but I know it's just the brake pedal location sensor. I replaced my brake vacuum booster and it's not worked since. All I need do is reach under and give the brake pedal a good yank to set it correctly.