Can this be done? I've heard of people using levles and string lines but never spoke to them first hand to see how.
Thanks for any help.

 

It can be done, but a camber/caster gauge sure helps if you want something other than 0 camber.

Front toe is very easy. with the wheel centered, I use some chalk and draw lines parallel to the tires with a straight edge on the garage floor, then measure the distance with a tape measure between the front and rear of the lines. Subtract the difference. This is the total toe. Adjust as necessary.

I've found that 1/4 turn on both tie rods equals about an 1/8" of total toe.

When I was about 1/8" toe out for the track, 1/2 turn in on both tie rods resulted in about 1/8" toe in (good for the street).

Then drive the car to check the steering wheel centering. With your hands off the wheel establish where the wheel centers itself. Don't be concerned with pull at this point, but of course drive with caution.

If the wheel centers itself offset to the left or right from center, simply toe the wheels in the same direction of the offset.

For example: If the wheel is offset slighly to the left, toe both wheels an equal amount (like 1/4 turn) to the left, so when the tires recenter dynamically they will pull the steering wheel back to the right toward center. Adjust as necessary. It is very easy requiring only a 13 mm wrench and 7/8" wrench to adjust toe.

Camber and caster is adjusted easily by adding or removing shims. 18 mm wrench or deep socket is required here. Jacking the car may improve access to the 18 mm nuts, but isn't always necessary.

What are you trying to adjust or correct in the car with a DIY alignment?

 

I just got done replacing steering rack.thought i put tierod end on at same location but.....Thanks, I'll give it a shot let you know how I made out.

 

If you can't get it to your satisfaction call around. Some shops will adjust toe-in without doing a full alignment.

 

If you lived around here there is a guy who runs an "alignment only" shop, him and his father, he would do what you need for $20, actually a complete 2 wheel alignment for that much. He gets so many customers and can do anything that drives, whether it be a 8 ft tall 4X4 or a 1/2" off the ground tuner, or a Ferrari F430 to a chevette, and everything inbetween, with all his customers he seems to do very well for himself, and has been in business for well over 25 years. So I'd say just call around and ask other car enthusiasts where they go.

 

All you need is a toe setting. That would only be a couple of dollars at a small shop. It's not worth futzing around with it yourself...you might accidentally get it close, you'll never get it right.

Larry
code5coupe

 

Quick question before I start. Does the tie rod "itself" rotate or do you have to disconect tie rod end, rotate end then re-attach? I know I could take it to a shop but my passion for my Corvette isn't just driving but also maintaining and improving it's performance.

 

all the ''pro'' alignment shops use equipment that is designed to be fast and be used by idiots, not for accuracy...all the ''quick'' adapters and projectors, etc introduce error.

if you want it really right, use the equipment that all top racing teams use--strings and a level.

for toe, i use monofilament fishing line stretched between two 7 ft long 2x2 wooden studs on jackstands (one front, one rear)..the monofil can be stretched tight to get precision far better than any ''loser'' (oops-''laser'')...

for camber i use a 2 ft alum level with 1/4-20 adjustable ''feelers'' that stick out to contact the rim...feelers @ 16'' apart, 1* = 9/32''...for caster, measure camber with the wheels turned 20* left and 20* right and multiply the difference by 1.5 (caster affects driver feel and you may vary side to side to compensate for road ''crown'')

you get best results on a level surface...set tire press and load in car as you will be when driving...i use high-buck turntables--two 1/4 steel plates about a foot square with just a sprinkle of dry sand between on each side (don't lean on the car)


high-buck camber gauge (stuff bolted to the bottom is to repair the crack in that side)

 

No reason to disconnect the tie rod end. Just loosen the big 7/8" lock nut and rotate the tie rod in the desired direction to add or decrease toe. It is very easy.

Take your wrenches with you and go for a drive to check centering.

 

Thanks, exactly what I was looking for.I knew it could be done and done better. but what about tie rod ends do you turn them or can you leave all assembled and just turn rod?

 

Just turn the rod with a 13 mm wrench, once the lock nut is loose.

The rod screws into the end, and is free to rotate in the rack on the other end.

 

Just went out to but rod is round from rubber boot to tie rod end. Where do you put 13mm wrench? Sorry for sounding naive:o

 

n, it really sounds like you need to take it to a shop...then watch how they do it. You can do it yourself next time....

Larry
code5coupe

 

On my car, there are hex flats on the tie rods about 3" inboard from the rod ends. I assumed yours would be the same. This makes it easier to adjust.

If the rod is round, you can turn it with pliers, or vice-grips, You may want to put a mark the tie rod for reference.

 

some don't have the wrench flats, just a knurled portion that looks like somebody already attacked it with a pipe wrench right next to the threads ....do like the ''pro'' at the front end shop--put a pipe wrench on it there.

 

Thats what I thought. Thanks.

 

I don't want to sound negative but watch the inside/outside edge of your tires real good after adjusting, because if it's wrong it won't take long for a wear pattern to show up and left unattended you'll be checking tirerack prices soon.

 

buzz over to harbor fright, grab a pyrometer for $40 (infrared one on sale right now)...open the box and make sure it works before you leave their parking lot...when you get home, crank your steering to full lock just before you stop...jump out and check the tire temp on the inside and outside edges of both front tires (you have about two minutes to get accurate data)...if you see a ''hot'' edge, change your alignment

 

good luck and tell me how it works

 

Toe is EASILY set with a tape measure.
To get in the ballpark I use a set of jackstands and strings.
I use a magnetic camber/caster gauge.
I can get mine where I want it much better than most alignment shops.
An added bonus is when I'm finished, my steering wheel WILL be perfectly 'horizontal' on most roads and tires WILL wear evenly.

It's another fun thing to do similar to building and engine or applying another coat of Zaino.