i was wondering if anybody could help me out...

my car basically completely stops(like engine shuts down) when im either waiting at a stop light/stop sign or just stopping in general...and if i excelerate, its like it wont change gears effectively...

with that said, i took it to a Corvette shop..and they said FUEL PUMP...and also i needed a new battery, so i changed both of those, and the outcome is STILL the same...now my friend tells me its a IDLE CONTROL VALVE..but i asked the guy who owns the shop and he said 'its not" and basically hes going to RESTART the computer in the car...

and its gone thru all the test, and nothing is showing....anyboyd HAVE SIMILAR PROBLEMS or have any idea???

and o yeah, last night i was tryin to start it..and it started then shut off by it self(just like the other times before) and it would shut like 2 seconds after i start it...and the CHECK ENGINE light would come on, but like i said...NOTHING wrong with it..

HELP ANYONE???

 

some specs on your car, please... I know it's a 1993, but is it auto or manual?

I like the Idle Air Control... it will do just that... die at stop.

 

sorry, its a Automatic, 93...LT1...

air control? but i never turn on my AC or anything of that nature...or does that even have to do with AIR control?

 

The IAC is a little motor on your throttle body (for lack of a better description) it open and closes the butterfly to allow more or less air in the engine to control the idle speed.
You could try spraying some throttle body cleaner around the butterfly and see if it helps. Or pull the whole TB off the car and clean it.
Find a factory service manual and go through the steps to test and set the IAC.

 

He means the IAC (Intake Idle Air) control valve on the passenger side of the throttle body, nothing to do the the air conditioner. First and easiest make sure the wiring harness is plugged in. Second, unplug it and see what happens when you start the car.

 

mine did the same thing before I replaced the IAC, it got worse over time especially when the engine warmed up. It can also cause it to idle erratically.

 

Did you pull the codes?

 

And don't forget: there's a difference between throttle body cleaner and carb cleaner. Don't use the latter.

 

I would start again with removing the throttle body and remove the IAC from the throttle body and clean both. The IAC has it's own air passage and does not make the throttle blade move at all. The IAC is controled by the ECM and makes adjustments (opening or closing for air) entering the intake. If there is carbon built up in the passage the ECM will call for wrong adjustments/steps which will cause a situation as you describe. You can ground the ALDL and turn the key to "on" and feel the IAC with your finger to see if it is moving at all, by feeling ticks. Clean the TB and IAC with throttle body cleaner and a old toothbrush or some small type brush to get into small grooves. 'I' would install a new TB gasket and IAC gasket to prevent future vac leaks.

 

i found out the problem...it actually wasnt any of those...it was the ignition...and he told me it was..

1)Opti Spark Distributor
2) Spark Plug Wires
3) Ignition Coil
4)Ignition Module
5)Spark Plugs
6) Water Pump(he said it wasnt really a big deal if i changed it or not, but the other 5 are very imporant)

so basically im askin now, if anyboyd knows where i can get these parts for cheap...cause he gave me an estimate of $2,800! and i know i cant afford that cause i spent 2 much earlier this year on this car! Any good hot spots online or near VA?

and another thing, i want to sell my car so i really dont know if i should just take it to carmax and just sell it to them, cause i want a 98...

 

You need to go see another shop, man.

First, you need to pull codes. After pulling any codes, then you need to troubleshoot.

#1 thing to do: Buy the helms manuals.
#2 sounds to me like the shop is trying to rip you off. They're not troubleshooting, they're just throwing parts at the car hoping it'll fix the problem. Testing fuel delivery is a simple procedure, they apparently didn't do anything to test the fuel pump. I seriously seriously doubt they tested anything with the battery either.
#3 Checking for spark is a simple procedure as well.
#4 Don't let the shop rip you off by telling you that all this stuff needs to be done, because it doesn't.
#5 - #10 the shop is trying to rip you off, because they don't know you've come here to ask for advice/suggestions.

 

i really do apprecaite the help and i will take you advice,...but heres the thing...i've been giong to them for like 3-4 years now...they are called CORVETTE SPECIALTIST here in VA...they do a greatjob just, with this problem, its exceed my expectations concerning the $$$ part...but basically...i knwo i need a new spark plug...and they did pull the codes...nothing came up....i had to drive with teh mechanic until the engine stopped at a complete stop....cuase they drove it for a day or two and nothing came up they said, it never stopped on them, but when i drove it, it stopped....so yeah..somethin is wrong, maybe not as big as they say it is...i may just need a tune up/spark plug...i have no idea tho...im takin it 2 carmax tmrw tho!

 

May i suggest that you go ahead and pull the codes yourself with a small paperclip. I don't know anything about the corvette shop, but from what you've briefly indicated here, i wouldn't trust them further than i could throw them.

1)Opti Spark Distributor: I believe it's usually a code 16 or 32 for an opti problem (don't quote me on that).
2) Spark Plug Wires (a simple resistance check with an ohm meter will usually tell you if the wire(s) are good)
3) Ignition Coil (another resistance check with the volt/ohmmeter will work for the coil: btw, a new coil cost me $30 from Napa and is a simple procedure to replace)
4)Ignition Module (Just hope it's not the ignition module, they're fairly expensive, $75-150.)(try the web for ways to troubleshoot/check the module)
5)Spark Plugs (pull a plug and see if it's fouled/smells like gas, etc)
6) Water Pump (i've never messed with the water pump, but check for any signs of leaks)

 

Take this out and take it to Autozone and have it tested for free. Have them run it through a 10 cycle test to get it hot.

Replace both of these with your choice.

 

Your getting ripped off............ The parts they say you need does not cost much and the labor(time) for putting them on at the most one maybe 2 hours. take your corvette to another shop for a second opinion....