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Old Sep 20, 2006 | 08:42 PM
  #1  
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Default Console door repair

Has anyone else had a problem with the material on the top of their console lid starting to peel back on the right hand side? I have my console door off now while I have the radio out, so I want to try to fix this if I can. I was just curious if anyone has had any luck with small rivets or screws, or something to put that material back in place?
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Old Sep 20, 2006 | 09:09 PM
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I got the exact same problem on my 91, but just left it alone. Your probably better off finding a nice used lid as the screws would look worse off.
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Old Sep 20, 2006 | 09:11 PM
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Well, if I do a repair, it will be on the bottom lip on that side, invisible unless the door is open. Just trying to see if someone else has done this instead of spending $$$ on a new door.
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Old Sep 20, 2006 | 09:43 PM
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I have not seen any good fixes for that problem, which seems to be prevalent. Let us all know if you figure out a good permanent fix.
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Old Sep 20, 2006 | 10:22 PM
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One of the forum members posted a fix a few months ago. He wrapped Saran wrap around the door to clamp it together overnight after putting the glue on it. I think he used Gorilla Glue
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Old Sep 20, 2006 | 10:47 PM
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I used 99 adhesive by 3M. I used wire ties to clamp it. Worked great
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Old Sep 20, 2006 | 10:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Rich Silvestris
One of the forum members posted a fix a few months ago. He wrapped Saran wrap around the door to clamp it together overnight after putting the glue on it. I think he used Gorilla Glue
Gorilla glue would probably work pretty good (don't over do the amount of glue you use, this stuff expands as it dries. And wipe one side of whatever you are gluing with a wet cloth, as Gorilla glue dries/cures in the presence of water). I used Contact cement and upholstry staples. I took the lid clear off, then removed the pad from the inside hinge portion, applied the contact cement and then used short (1/4") upholstry staples. Once you put it back together the staples never show. Mine has held for almost 2 years now.
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Old Sep 20, 2006 | 10:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Rich Silvestris
One of the forum members posted a fix a few months ago. He wrapped Saran wrap around the door to clamp it together overnight after putting the glue on it. I think he used Gorilla Glue
I think you're right, but it may've been longer than a few months ago. I thought it was somewhere around early last winter but I could be wrong.
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Old Sep 20, 2006 | 11:40 PM
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I sold this one to a forum member. It was repaired with screws. Maybe he will recognize it and let us know if it is still holding together.

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Old Sep 21, 2006 | 12:02 AM
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Default console fix

Hot glued mine, still holding!!
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Old Sep 21, 2006 | 01:39 AM
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Covered lid and side plastic console pieces in leather... came out sweet:
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Old Sep 21, 2006 | 10:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Rich Silvestris
One of the forum members posted a fix a few months ago. He wrapped Saran wrap around the door to clamp it together overnight after putting the glue on it. I think he used Gorilla Glue
That would have been me. But, I used MonkeySnot, not Gorilla Glue.

Here's a repost:

---------

The console compartment lid on my '94 had deteriorated in the typical manner -- the adhesive had failed at the hinged edge, and the cover had begun to come loose. This caused the cover to bind against the console base as the lid was raised. This is a very common problem with these lids, because they aren't stapled along this one edge. Here's how I repaired mine:

1. I removed the entire lid assembly from the console so that I could work with it on the workbench.

2. I disassembled the lid assembly so that the hinges and structural elements were set aside, and I was working only with the plastic shell, foam padding and soft cover.

3. I gently pulled back the loose edge, and gently brushed out the loose bits of crumbled foam padding underneath. I then cleaned the surfaces to be bonded with Isopropyl Alcohol (note that there are two grades of Isopropyl available at pharmacies -- get the more pure grade, which is typically 91% and will leave less residue behind).

4. I wrapped the cover up with clear plastic cling wrap (the stuff that's commonly used in the kitchen for wrapping leftover food, etc), using the wrap to pull the stretched-out-of-shape material at the loose edge back into shape. I used care to keep the cling wrap stretched as smoothly and evenly across the lid as possible, so that it applied even pressure, and left no creases in the cover material -- applying only as much clamping pressure as was required to pull everything back to its original shape and contours without pulling it too tight. I left the thing wrapped up overnight.

5. I removed the cling wrap the next day. The cover material had returned pretty well to its original shape and contours, which, I'm convinced, made the remainder of the job much easier, and helped to achieve a better end result.

6. I carefully re-bonded the loose edge. There are many adhesives available that might be suitable for this task. I used MonkeySnot (3M Super Weatherstrip Adhesive, which is available at nearly any decent auto parts store). If used properly, this stuff grips like stink. I've been using it for 30 years with great results. To apply the stuff, I squeezed out a pool of adhesive onto a piece of scrap cardboard, and used a small throwaway acid brush to transfer controlled amounts of adhesive to the target areas, working the adhesive down into the loose/separating foam padding to the extent possible.

7. Before the adhesive set, I wrapped the lid up again in cling wrap, just as I'd done the previous evening. Once again, the cling wrap proved to be a valuable tool. By applying just the right amount of "pull" while wrapping the thing, I was able to pull the loose edge of the cover back to almost exactly where it had been when new, while the adhesive cured. The transparency of the cling wrap made it easy to monitor and adjust the clamping action applied as I was wrapping it. I left it wrapped up overnight again.

8. The next day, I unwrapped the lid, reassembled the thing, and mounted it back on the console.

I'm very pleased with the result. I think it looks more than satisfactory, and the lid now moves freely as it should, with no more binding along the hinges as it is raised. Prior to the repair, I couldn't raise the lid to more than around a 45 degree angle because it was binding up at the hinges. It works like brand new, now.

If you are in a cold climate, I'd suggest you do this in the house where the material can remain warm while you're working with it, otherwise it will be stiffer and harder to work with, and the results may suffer as a result. When you apply the MonkeySnot, take care to make SURE you don't get the stuff where you don't want it. MonkeySnot is as stringy as melted cheese on top of a hot pizza, and it can easily end up in places where you don't want it to be. Use masking tape, etc, to protect surfaces as required if you have doubts about how well you can control this stuff. Follow the label instructions on the MonkeySnot with respect to application/cure, etc.

Hope this helps.

Be well,

SJW
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Old Sep 21, 2006 | 11:17 AM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by vinnies87
Covered lid and side plastic console pieces in leather... came out sweet:
That does look good! I can't see the front, pointed corners on your console. Did you hack them off to simplify recovering the lid?
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Old Sep 21, 2006 | 01:19 PM
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I repaired mine before I sold it. I just glued the areas that needed gluing then took 2 rulers and placed them on both sides of the console to make sure the edges stayed straight. I then used tape from side to side to hold the rulers in place real tight. I let it sit overnight and it worked great! Then again I sold it to a forum member and bought a brand new one.
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Old Sep 21, 2006 | 06:28 PM
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Originally Posted by 87vette
I repaired mine before I sold it. I just glued the areas that needed gluing then took 2 rulers and placed them on both sides of the console to make sure the edges stayed straight. I then used tape from side to side to hold the rulers in place real tight. I let it sit overnight and it worked great! Then again I sold it to a forum member and bought a brand new one.
You should be ashamed.... YOU CAD! YOU DEMON! YOU EVIL DECEPTION ARTIST! You good old-fashioned American Entrepeneur. Nice way to reduce the cost of a new one.

gp
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Old Sep 21, 2006 | 06:32 PM
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Originally Posted by GREGGPENN
That does look good! I can't see the front, pointed corners on your console. Did you hack them off to simplify recovering the lid?
Nope, recovered just as they were, just takes time on the triming and clamping to ensure they are a good fit...and tight.
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Old Sep 21, 2006 | 07:59 PM
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Originally Posted by GREGGPENN
You should be ashamed.... YOU CAD! YOU DEMON! YOU EVIL DECEPTION ARTIST! You good old-fashioned American Entrepeneur. Nice way to reduce the cost of a new one.

gp
It looked good as new and I did inform them that it has seen better days etc.. and yet they still wanted it.
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Old Sep 22, 2006 | 02:04 AM
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I used a 2 part epoxy and wedged it under the bed so the carpering on the floor held everything in place for about 24 hours. its been about 6 months and still looks like new. The cling wrap sounds like a great way to hold it in place though.
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Old Sep 22, 2006 | 07:57 AM
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Originally Posted by SJW
That would have been me. But, I used MonkeySnot, not Gorilla Glue.

Here's a repost:

---------

The console compartment lid on my '94 had deteriorated in the typical manner -- the adhesive had failed at the hinged edge, and the cover had begun to come loose. This caused the cover to bind against the console base as the lid was raised. This is a very common problem with these lids, because they aren't stapled along this one edge. Here's how I repaired mine:

1. I removed the entire lid assembly from the console so that I could work with it on the workbench.

2. I disassembled the lid assembly so that the hinges and structural elements were set aside, and I was working only with the plastic shell, foam padding and soft cover.

3. I gently pulled back the loose edge, and gently brushed out the loose bits of crumbled foam padding underneath. I then cleaned the surfaces to be bonded with Isopropyl Alcohol (note that there are two grades of Isopropyl available at pharmacies -- get the more pure grade, which is typically 91% and will leave less residue behind).

4. I wrapped the cover up with clear plastic cling wrap (the stuff that's commonly used in the kitchen for wrapping leftover food, etc), using the wrap to pull the stretched-out-of-shape material at the loose edge back into shape. I used care to keep the cling wrap stretched as smoothly and evenly across the lid as possible, so that it applied even pressure, and left no creases in the cover material -- applying only as much clamping pressure as was required to pull everything back to its original shape and contours without pulling it too tight. I left the thing wrapped up overnight.

5. I removed the cling wrap the next day. The cover material had returned pretty well to its original shape and contours, which, I'm convinced, made the remainder of the job much easier, and helped to achieve a better end result.

6. I carefully re-bonded the loose edge. There are many adhesives available that might be suitable for this task. I used MonkeySnot (3M Super Weatherstrip Adhesive, which is available at nearly any decent auto parts store). If used properly, this stuff grips like stink. I've been using it for 30 years with great results. To apply the stuff, I squeezed out a pool of adhesive onto a piece of scrap cardboard, and used a small throwaway acid brush to transfer controlled amounts of adhesive to the target areas, working the adhesive down into the loose/separating foam padding to the extent possible.

7. Before the adhesive set, I wrapped the lid up again in cling wrap, just as I'd done the previous evening. Once again, the cling wrap proved to be a valuable tool. By applying just the right amount of "pull" while wrapping the thing, I was able to pull the loose edge of the cover back to almost exactly where it had been when new, while the adhesive cured. The transparency of the cling wrap made it easy to monitor and adjust the clamping action applied as I was wrapping it. I left it wrapped up overnight again.

8. The next day, I unwrapped the lid, reassembled the thing, and mounted it back on the console.

I'm very pleased with the result. I think it looks more than satisfactory, and the lid now moves freely as it should, with no more binding along the hinges as it is raised. Prior to the repair, I couldn't raise the lid to more than around a 45 degree angle because it was binding up at the hinges. It works like brand new, now.

If you are in a cold climate, I'd suggest you do this in the house where the material can remain warm while you're working with it, otherwise it will be stiffer and harder to work with, and the results may suffer as a result. When you apply the MonkeySnot, take care to make SURE you don't get the stuff where you don't want it. MonkeySnot is as stringy as melted cheese on top of a hot pizza, and it can easily end up in places where you don't want it to be. Use masking tape, etc, to protect surfaces as required if you have doubts about how well you can control this stuff. Follow the label instructions on the MonkeySnot with respect to application/cure, etc.

Hope this helps.

Be well,

SJW



I used your method (except I used silicon instead of monkey snot) , and it worked perfectly... BTW, you need to submit this as a tech tip.

Last edited by baddmann; Sep 22, 2006 at 08:06 AM.
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Old Sep 22, 2006 | 12:27 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by vinnies87
Nope, recovered just as they were, just takes time on the triming and clamping to ensure they are a good fit...and tight.
I wonder if your console lid is different than my 1989. There are two points on the front of mine that stick out at least 1/2". Your pic (in this thread) makes it look like your console is straight along the front edge.

Actually, the side pieces (between the seats and the console) also look somewhat different. Was there a difference between 87 & 89?

(Everything else looks the same).

gp
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