Installing lowering kit---questions.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 4,928
Likes: 1
Installing lowering kit---questions.
I'm in the process of installing new ujoints. So while i'm under there, i figured I'd put in the lowering kit and new rotors too. Anyway, I'm wondering for those of you who have installed the kit, how many threads did you leave showing on the bolt after screwing the nyloc nut? Also, should I drill a hole and install the cotter pin just for a safty precaution?
Thanks for the help.
Thanks for the help.
Racer
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 287
Likes: 0
From: Forest Hill Maryland
When I did it, I counted three threads up on each...problem was, the car sat uneven after I let it down. So, you will probaly have an uneven thread count between the two. I think I have three on one and about 5 on the other...to even the car out. With that said, my rear lowered 1 1/4". Huge difference..enough difference I did the front also which came down 1".
As far as drilling the hole...no I did not see the need with the poly lock nut, plus you may want to adjust the rear several times, the cars height will change as you ride it. Have fun with it.
You dont realize how high these cars sit until you park next to a stock C4.
As far as drilling the hole...no I did not see the need with the poly lock nut, plus you may want to adjust the rear several times, the cars height will change as you ride it. Have fun with it.
You dont realize how high these cars sit until you park next to a stock C4.
Racer
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 319
Likes: 0
From: Denver Colorado
I just lowered mine last week. In doing so I adjusted the rear bolt to my weight. I wanted the car to sit as low as possible and when im in the car my weight makes the car ride lower. So I am right at 3/4 of an inch of shown thread with no cotter pin (you dont need it). On the front I configured my own spacer to also accomidate the right height that I wanted. Dont use the kit its junk and trying to glue plastic wedges on the spring in my opinion is a joke.
After:
After:
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 1,128
Likes: 70
From: Pineville Louisiana
Dont use the kit its junk and trying to glue plastic wedges on the spring in my opinion is a joke.
Best of luck to you,
Daniel
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 4,928
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ls1596, what did you use as a spacer? I don't have the $$ to do coilover's although that would be nice. Could I get away with just cutting the ends off the spring? I'd like to bring down the front about an inch.
Racer
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 319
Likes: 0
From: Denver Colorado
Upfront located on / mounted to the spring is a thick piece of rubber along with 2 shims that come out during the installaltion, anyway very carefully I removed a little more than half of that rubber (block) and then put it all back together with just one of the shims that originally came out. I found that it gave me the drop I was looking for and that I still can perform around corners better then before and in my opinion your not completely altering the stock set up from Chevy. I have a pic of that rubber piece and when I get home tonight I will download it for you so you know what Im talking about. Good luck and what ever I can do to help let me know. 
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Racer
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 319
Likes: 0
From: Denver Colorado
More in the middle, these blocks are on each side. if you look under the front of the car where the spring goes from side to side, pick the half way point of the spring then go out about 2ft on each side you will see 2 nuts holding a metal bracket on each side, this is where the spring is attached to the car. This is where the rubber blocks are located. Keep in mind that you want to cut the top of the rubber block not the underside. If I had a pic it would make so much more sense, sorry. DO NOT attempt to remove these nuts until you have removed the tension from the spring.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 797
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From: Bedford Ma.
Originally Posted by ls1569
I just lowered mine last week. In doing so I adjusted the rear bolt to my weight. I wanted the car to sit as low as possible and when im in the car my weight makes the car ride lower. So I am right at 3/4 of an inch of shown thread with no cotter pin (you dont need it). On the front I configured my own spacer to also accomidate the right height that I wanted. Dont use the kit its junk and trying to glue plastic wedges on the spring in my opinion is a joke.
After:
After:
Racer
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 319
Likes: 0
From: Denver Colorado
The wheels are made by Milanni (Bitchen) what a name for wheels. Anyway the wheels were a special order for a new mustang and for some reason the guy didnt want them so I bought them for a great price and had them redrilled for my vette. The fronts are 20x9 rears are 20x10 tires front are 245/35/20 rears are 285/30/20.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 4,928
Likes: 1
Got the rear bolts in and dropped the car down. Took it for a ride and I'm not liking the stance. It's lower in the rear than the front. Anyway, I'll just adjust it so the car is level until I can get to the front.
ls1569....how much did you take off the blocks and how did you remove it so it was even? Did you use a sander or a cutting wheel to do it? I really like the lowered look and I can't wait to get the front done.
ls1569....how much did you take off the blocks and how did you remove it so it was even? Did you use a sander or a cutting wheel to do it? I really like the lowered look and I can't wait to get the front done.
Racer
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 478
Likes: 0
From: langhorne
Originally Posted by 89Corvette6spdFX3
Has anyone cut the rubber ends off of the spring to gain their drop? Will it damage the spring?
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
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From: Freedom is never more than one generation away from extinction.
St. Jude '03 thru '24
Originally Posted by 89Corvette6spdFX3
I know you cut the two rubber pieces in the middle of the spring, but I've also heard of people cutting the rubber that's on each end of the spring. Has anyone done that?