When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Did this procedure to my '91 coupe and works like a charm...WOW what a difference..no delay and all the buttons work!
There were some minor differences with my '91...only four bolts on outside of box.......in addition to the four lightbulbs two additional bolts hold the circuit boards together.....
Also take note of the which way the gray rubber contact pad is facing (mine was black contacts towards the circuit board contacts). I also cleaned with alcohol only the black rubber contacts on the gray rubber pad. Also cleaned the pins again with only alcohol. The post saids that the circuit board contacts should be very clear......well I cleaned the two silver contacts for each button as well as the gold "circle" where the black rubber meets when any button is pushed.
Hope this helps to clarify for '91 and perhaps other yrs.
Thank you TiIngot. My 94 hasn't worked right since I got it in April. Just finished and now all the lights come on when the buttons are pushed. Couldn't even turn it off before. The only problem I had was not making sure the shift indicator was hook up when I was done, had to take the shifter plate off again, but it is all good you saved me $400. Thanks again.
Thank you TiIngot. My 94 hasn't worked right since I got it in April. Just finished and now all the lights come on when the buttons are pushed. Couldn't even turn it off before. The only problem I had was not making sure the shift indicator was hook up when I was done, had to take the shifter plate off again, but it is all good you saved me $400. Thanks again.
Worked like a charm on my '94 as well, though there was a very scary moment.
After getting the control back in place I couldn't get my transmission to shift out of park. I could here and feel the interlock cycling when I depressed the brake pedal, but the dang thing just wouldn't budge out of park.
Took about 15 minutes and a tiny flashlight to figure out that there is just enough clearance under the shifter mechanism for an errant trim screw to fudge things up. Fished the loose screw out with a magnet & all was well. Scared the crap out of me though... I could just picture all of my future seat time being spent sitting the cool A/C while parked in my garage
Did the process today, and it works like new! Took me more than two hours, but I had to run down and pick up a 3/16" socket, a 7mm wrench, and some electircal contact cleaner. Wanted to make sure it was super clean.
Thanx for saving me $350-500. That's what my very honest mechanic quoted for a new one. ("If I could find it.")
I had a slave cylinder replaced on my 93. It was leaking badly. The climate control worked but sometimes the cold/hot temperture buttons did not work and I could pop the dash around the left side of the control unit and sometimes it would work. But all worked the AC and heat even though the heat has not been very reliable...but when I got the car back the ac/heat is not working...the light is on but no temp showing and nothing works..fan,ac,heat,nothing...not sure were to start and what needs to be checked..any and all ideals are great..
Thanks
Bobby
There are small conductive rubber pads that touch the printed circuits contacts to make a connection. Years of smoking or just plain oxidation prevents these conductive rubber pads from making a good connection. Take it apart carefully / use qtips and alcohol to GENTLY wipe the rubber pads behind the buttons and the circuit board where they touch.
Reassemble and everything should work well. It will take longer getting the control out of the dash and back in than opening and cleaning the buttons.
I'm looking this over, thinking I could probably do it. However I notice the screws near the vents (above the controls) don't look familiar. I assumed they would be phillips heads but, shining a flashlight in there, I'm not so sure. Maybe a previous owner ruined them...screw driver wouldn't grab. They don't quite look like Torx nor do they seem to be allen. I have the FSM ordered but it isn't here yet...any help?
I did this repair on my '94 and it fixed my problem... for a day. Took it apart and cleaned it again with electrical cleaner. All the buttons work now, but the control head keeps losing power. The backlight stays on but my AC will shut off and the display will go blank as well as the green lights over the buttons. No response from the buttons. Maybe a bad ground? Fuses are good. Anybody have any ideas?
I did this repair on my '94 and it fixed my problem... for a day. Took it apart and cleaned it again with electrical cleaner. All the buttons work now, but the control head keeps losing power. The backlight stays on but my AC will shut off and the display will go blank as well as the green lights over the buttons. No response from the buttons. Maybe a bad ground? Fuses are good. Anybody have any ideas?
I was wondering if canned air, applied in the cracks, might blow out any dust etc. I'm a bit afraid to do that because the cold air may form into a liquid. I have a rocket blower for my camera stuff...it's manual, so the air wouldn't be chilled, but it does have some punch. I may try that.
Maybe it's just a coincidence but the controls seem to work better when it's cool. The past winter I didn't have many problems; first thing in the morning this summer, I have better luck than during the day.
I did this repair on my '94 and it fixed my problem... for a day. Took it apart and cleaned it again with electrical cleaner. All the buttons work now, but the control head keeps losing power. The backlight stays on but my AC will shut off and the display will go blank as well as the green lights over the buttons. No response from the buttons. Maybe a bad ground? Fuses are good. Anybody have any ideas?
That sounds like a problem with the solder on the unit.