Copper Metallic Corvette Purchase
I've got an opportunity to trade in my 1988 White Corvette for a Copper Metallic 1994 plus some cash. Here's the deal: Dealer said the 94 was stolen at one point in it's life and the Carfax shows "salvage" in it's history, which drops the value of the car hence the lower price. It's about $3 to $5K lower than others of the same year and mileage. But the car is in near perfect condition with only 62K miles and a like new interior.
They want $10K. Does this sound like a fair deal? I'm going to ask for $5K for my trade-in. May ask for $6K, not sure yet. Don't think I can get $6K though.
I'd like to trade in on a newer Corvette as mine is showing it's age now.
What do you think? Is 1994 a good year for Corvettes?
Bill
Last edited by wilsonbh; Nov 12, 2006 at 06:01 AM.










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Do not sign any "salvage disclosure" paperwork with the dealer until they have provided copies of ALL the salvage paperwork to you.
Check with your states DMV and your insurance company on what paperwork they want to see.
If the dealer hesitates in any way, WALK AWAY!
You need to know what the basis was for declaring the car as "Salvage". Was it a wrecked car, flood car, or simply stripped down?? A 'stolen' car by itself may not mean that much unless the owner was paid for the car, released legal ownership to the insurance company and the car was later recovered in good condition.Even though the price at 10K for one of the 116 Copper Metallic cars sounds like a good deal, I would insist on taking the car to an independent auto repair facility for a complete mechanical check and then to a reputable body shop to carefully inspect the car for any damage. Get the places to give you a written report that outlines any problems or issues discovered along with repair cost estimates.
Also check the RPO sticker to make sure the RPO color code is 66U (Copper Metallic) and the WA code is 136A. That way you can tell if it is one of the original CM cars.
The '94 drove well, has good tires and has a near perfect interior. Has a Bose Gold with Cd and it sounds great. A/C works well, weather stripping all is good and from my feeble skills, there didn't seem to be any evidence of prior accidents. Perfect lines on the body. Has 62K miles and overall, I liked the car.
The dealer said the car was stolen and later recovered after the insurance settled with the owner. So, because of this, it was listed as "Salvage" on the title.
I didn't study the paperwork that he claimed to have on the car but I think I'll do that today. I'd like to get the car but I can't do it unless I can unload my '88.
Bill
If he wants to make a sale, he will give you a decent value for your car. $5K is probably a reasonable trade-in value as the dealer will wind up asking $8K to $10 or even more for it once it's on their lot. They could even wholesale the car off for $6K.
A consignment sale is not a good idea, if the salesmen don't push the car, you don't get anything at all and after a set period of time, you may have to take the car back and sell it yourself. And the dealer may want a percentage of the sale amount instead of a flat fee.
If you want the 94, decide on what you think is a reasonable trade-in value and go back to the dealer with the title to your car and a check for the difference. Make the check out for that amount and show the dealer as the payee. Tell him you are prepared to sign right now and make the deal with no further bickering. But you must be also ready to walk out if they don't budge.
And definitely review the paperwork if they have it and will let you look at it. If you have time, get the name of the insurance company and the agent to see if you can verify everything. Also check with your DMV to see if the "Salvage" comment on the title stays on there forever. That may cause you problems down the road when you go to sell it.
1. Get your very best cash price off this dealer (sounds like you are using the salvage title to your advantage; I don't see why he wouldn't go for $9K cash eventually)
2. Get it inspected by a good mechanic -- takes away some of the natural emotion associated with getting a 6 year newer, 70K less miles, and very nice looking upgrade for not too much $$$
3. Get together as much cash as you can to minimize the loan for the difference -- these days you can get a loan pretty quickly without going thru the dealer if your credit is half-decent
4. Sell your car outright -- it would not shock me if you could get $6K if it is in good shape
5. Use that cash to pay down the loan. With any luck, what's left of it will be a very small number when all transactions are complete.
Keep the car a while -- that makes the whole salvage/resale thing a non-issue.
Bill

www.kbb.com
1988 cpe 138k miles
trade in good $4550.
Fair $3,700.
Look for a car without a slavage title, pay a little more, get a lot more.
Sell your car on the street, the miles are a killer.
$10.9 is way over the top for a salvage.

Do not sign any "salvage disclosure" paperwork with the dealer until they have provided copies of ALL the salvage paperwork to you.
Check with your states DMV and your insurance company on what paperwork they want to see.
If the dealer hesitates in any way, WALK AWAY!












