Pull the A/C control head unit out of the dash and pull it apart, clean all the contacts for the buttons, also inspect the circuits for damage and loose connections, put it all back together and then try it out.

 

I am guessing that you already checked the fusebox for a blown fuse?

 

Throw the PKE away and never look back.... piece of crap. It will hurt your head if you try to figure it out.

 

Thanks for the tips! I think there are new OEM climate control boxes out there for $275 or so, but would much rather try these other options for obvious reasons. As for my now busted PKE, this will be an optional replacement as climate control takes precedence ...

 

I had the same problem with my 94. Ordered a new controler from Eckler's for about $180. When I took the old one out and replaced it with the new one, I got curious about what was inside the box.

Took it apart and found out the main circuit board ( to the switches) was loose. I really didn't need the new controler, but, I'd already installed it and had the dash back together. Now, I gots a spare.

bill

 

Don't even know where mine is. Quit using it right after I bought my car in 2000. I think Chevrolet missed it with this keyless entry system. I guess they wanted something different with the corvette. To me, it's a pain in the butt, though I know others who like it. Why couldn't they have just kept it simple.....with a lock and unlock button we could manually push, and leave out the auto-lock/unlock?

 

Can only the factory remotes be used for PKE? I have an alarm/remote start/keyless entry/ paging alarm that I would like to install, but dont want to if I cant get that fob to work with the PKE (which I doubt it will). Anyone know for a fact?

 

I too have a fob that I can't get to program into the car. Is it possible that there are already the maximum loads of previous fob installs? Can they be cleared out?

My car has other electrical problems too so I'm at a loss on how to fix these things. I get a C72 code with the CCM and the horn fuse blows instantly when replaced.

To say it's frustrating is a huge understatement....


Billy

 

There's a lot of misinformation in this thread, there is no way to turn the PKE system totally OFF. There is either passive mode or manual mode, that's not an issue right now as the thing doesn't work to start with though.

Even the guy on Ebay is wrong, unhooking your battery will not clear the transmitters, that memory is not volatile.

I'll post this again but it's from when I fixed my 96 but all the systems work on the same principals. Your pinouts may be a little different on your diagnostic connector. Refer to earlier postings for your pinouts on that.

This pertains to my 96 but should work for 95, 94, maybe others you’ll have to look and see. I’m assuming you have a known good transmitter. You know how to program it correctly. If not do a search and you should find many tips on it or use your manual.

A few preliminary checks should be done first to rule out anything stupid and not so obvious.

Fuses…
#40 RDO BATT 5A=provides constant power to the module.

#26 PKE 5A=provides switched 12 volts in run, bulb test and start.

#42 POWER LOCK= provides voltage to the indicator bulb and power door lock relays in the module.

If all those are OK you need to make sure your “Key in ignition switch” is working, this is easily tested by opening your door with the key inserted and listening for the warning chime. If no chime is heard you have either a defective switch in the ignition, the chime itself is just dead, or there is a wiring problem between the switch and CCM and/or the PKE receiver.

Now you’re saying, “that’s all good but it still won’t program” You need to make sure the module is actually alive and responding. Enter the diagnostic mode by jumping pins 8 to 5 on the DLC and inserting your key in the ignition with it in “Lock” position. Take your transmitter out of range for this. Do you have any PKE light activity? If NO the module will have to be accessed, if it’s working it should flash DTC 13 (one flash, pause, three flashes) bring your transmitter into range and make sure to move it around shake it, the DTC should change from 13 to either 14 or 15.

14 is good, it means your transmitter isn’t programmed or has a bad battery. (Unlikely since you can’t program it anyway.)
15 is bad, you have some system the CCM is looking at that isn’t in a ready state, door lock switches, courtesy light switches on the doors etc… you need to figure why the CCM isn’t happy. You’ll need the service manual for this there’s no way to figure it out without it.

In the case of no DTC’s the module just isn’t ready for some reason, you need to access the module by removing the dash cap. It isn’t that hard; don’t cut apart your dash frame inside behind the radio to get to it that’s what hackers do. Do it right and pop the dash off it’s only a number of screws.

You will see two boxes in the middle of the inner dash velcro’d together. The PKE receiver module is the one underneath. It can positioned to gain access to the terminals but it’s not easy.



Check all the inputs the thing needs in order to work…

A1=Ground, BLK wire.

A4=will go from 12 volts to 0 when you stick the key in the ignition. LT GRN wire.

A5=PKE fuse input, switched 12 volts. PNK wire.

A6=LH door ajar, 12 volts with door closed, 0 with it open. GRY/BLK wire.

A7=RH door ajar, 12 volts with door closed, 0 with it open. BLK/WHT wire.

A8=RDO fuses input, should be 12 volts at all times. ORN wire.

C=Lamp indicator, ground this BLK/ORN wire and the indicator should light.

F=Power Door Lock, hot at all times. ORN wire.


Your module may have some broken connections where the connectors finally make their way into the PCB of the module. It can be taken apart easily but re-soldering the connections isn’t so easy. The board has a coating on it for protection, you have to dig through the stuff in order to re-solder things.

I’ve included a picture of the pin outs from the receiver for reference and aid. Do yourself a favor and buy the Helms service manual. Even if you can’t fix your PKE with it you’ll need it for many other things.

I’m sure this isn’t all inclusive but it should help solve many problems folks have.

 

i agree. i have 2 working good ones in a drawer with bats. removed. just make sure you get right one for your car. verts and cpe are different

 

I love the PKE system, it can either be manual (operates like any other keyless entry system) or passive (locks and unlocks when you move away or close to your vehicle) also most people don't know you can program it for one or both doors to unlock passively or manually.

When the system works and you fully understand the programming and operation it's a blessing. Plus I like everything from the factory working if I can, it just seems to make me feel like the car is more valuable and I don't have to fart around with some aftermarket keyless entry or alarm system.

You can have the opinion you don't like it and it's too much hassle but don't try to dissuade others from trying to fix it just because you don't like it.

 

id say most of us that have it know how its supposed to work. to each their own. as far as im concernd its another pos to go wrong. too bad gm didnt design a better ignition system or more perormance instead of putting money into crap like this

 

I have not read that your power door locks work or not. Both door lock switches are wired to the PKE module(Remote Control Power Door Lock Module). If the door locks work there is a good chance your PKE will work also.

 

I was planning on installing a remote start/keyless entry/paging alarm to my car. Is there any way I can get this alarm to arm the stock system?
I was looking at a diagram and it is a "5 wire", which means I would have to install 2 relays coming off the PKE module.
Can someone give me an idea of where the PKE module is located at?

 

The PKE box is directly behind the DIC. There are two boxes back there, the little on eon top is for your key in the ignition chime and the bigger one with two connectors is the PKE. You need to remove the dash cap to get to it.

 

Does anyone have experience with aftermarket alarms? I have a wiring diagram, but will the aftermarket alarm enable the stock OEM security feature?
Does anyone also have any experience with a transponder bypass for using remote start?

 

I'd start a new thread on this, you're in danger of a hijack. Quickly though, you're in for a long road with a 96.

 

I did not get a key fob with my used vette. My vette is a 94. Check your owners manual it will tell you how to program it. I when through the motions with out a FOB and the pas key lit up.

 

Question on this topic, if I turn the PKE off, does that disable the stock alarm system?

 

What to you mean by "turn it off"?
There are two modes, passive and manual.

Passive mode allows the doors to lock and unlock as you come up to or walk away from the car.

Manual mode allows you to unlock the doors like any other key fob. But it will not lock the door. You have to manually lock the door either with the auto lock on the door or using the key when you get out.

In either of those two modes, the factory alarm system will still be active.

This is assuming that everything is functioning as it should be