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Common problem I know, the drivers door on my 86 sounds all loose inside when I shut it. Has anybody found a fix, I read an article in CF this issue that says window bumpers and insulators will help just wondering if anyone has tried it. and is it worth the $40. for the insulators.
I would say yes it is probably worth it. But since you have to disassemble the door anyway to replace them why not do a visual first. Maybe something else is loose. On my '94 the drivers window would rattle and move in and out quite a bit with the glass all the way up. I found after taking the door panel off that the cushion on one of the buffers had moved and my door panel was off the top mount (for lack of a better way to describe it). By fixing the buffer and remounting the panel my noise went away the the glass is much more secure.
at least your door panel is fully attached! The ones on my 86 aren't. I have heard great things about the insulators, and have a set waiting to go in once I get new panels
The MAM kit consists (mainly) of a pre-cut panel that fits behind the door panel plus various pre-cut sticky-back foam strips.
I have used household sticky-back foam insulation to wrap the connectors and place where any metal or plastic could touch metal. Then I got some polyurethane underlayment sheet and cut a piece to fit behind my inner door panel. This is way takes a little more work but is a bit cheaper than the kit.
As mentioned, you need to also inspect the door innards to see if anything is loose.
I removed my door panel and reinstalled it for the first time about a month back. Its really not that bad. Once it is off you will have access to the interior of your door and you can tighten all bolts and look for anything loose that could cause a rattle. One of my window buffers was loose and rattling. The insulation will help out with the road noise, its worth putting in if you have your door panel off anyways. The later C4s I believe came with it factory installed.
at least your door panel is fully attached! The ones on my 86 aren't. I have heard great things about the insulators, and have a set waiting to go in once I get new panels
I just over came the same exact problem! Mine were barely hanging on. It was quite sad. After removing the panels I found wires were improperly spliced, the door/lock rods were bent out of shape (much like me!! ), the rear stabilizer for the window was missing, etc etc... so mine was rattling because things were missing and loose.
The main source of my rattle was my old regulator. It was shaking the glass around in the door. Things are much better since I've upgraded the regulator and tightened everything back up.
As above a visual w/o the panel is a trmendous help, mine had loose fasteners that allowed everything to rattle. Instead of that faom thing here is what I did,
I had some hardwood snap-lock flooring mat leftover (the stuff you put down first) it was the heavy duty stuff blue plastic with about a 1/4" of jute insulation bonded to it, I cut it to the same size as the OE plastic that was glued to the door from the factory, I hot glued the blue plastic side to the door and I tell you what, this cut down all kinds of road noise as well as making the door sound quiter when shut.
Hey thanks guys, a lot of good info here. I think I'll take the panels off look around, fix anything loose then fabricate my own insulation. Sounds like a good project.
Also, just a recommendation (especially for Laurel)... if you remove your door panels, take the time to completely clean out the entire door. It's well worth the time. Not only did I vacuum and clean the doors, but I also took the time to clean all of the electrical connections in the door.
My power lock actuator was not moving at all in the driver side. After some cleaning with fine grit sand paper wrapped around a feeler gauge and some contact cleaner, that sucker was working like brand new again. If you have it all apart, might as well take the time and do it all right.
Also, just a recommendation (especially for Laurel)... if you remove your door panels, take the time to completely clean out the entire door. It's well worth the time. Not only did I vacuum and clean the doors, but I also took the time to clean all of the electrical connections in the door.
My power lock actuator was not moving at all in the driver side. After some cleaning with fine grit sand paper wrapped around a feeler gauge and some contact cleaner, that sucker was working like brand new again. If you have it all apart, might as well take the time and do it all right.
Yeah, I'm definitely gonna go after that. My car's only unlockable from the passenger side, so I need to get to the lock rods to see wtf is up with them. The power locks need some troubleshooting as well. Nothing like buying a cheap 20 year old corvette for learning how to do general repairs.
Yeah, I'm definitely gonna go after that. My car's only unlockable from the passenger side, so I need to get to the lock rods to see wtf is up with them. The power locks need some troubleshooting as well. Nothing like buying a cheap 20 year old corvette for learning how to do general repairs.
Wait... wait... do you own my car? Seriously, you're describing the exact same issues I had. Basically it came down to this.
I bet you anything that the problems will jump out at you immediately. You might also want to check and make sure all the plastic rod guides are still in the door.
When replacing the weather strips, I had the door panels off. I found I had several cracks in both panels. Repaired the with epoxy, used 3m Dum dum when re-assembling them ( Not alot, just where needed) I also found out the drivers side door was not even completely on right in the first place!
I also put on a pair of arm rest savers ( as they are called) and it really seemed to help stiffen up the door! ALOT LESS NOISES coming from the doors now!
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