Coolant light...
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Coolant light...
Recently my coolant light has been coming on. Hoping that it was just low I filled as it was. Last week I noticed a coolant smell while driving and then I noticed white smoke out the pipes, not much but still noticed some. Coolant light goes away after engine warms but seems to come back from time to time while driving.
Where do I start?
Where do I start?
Last edited by DonM77; Apr 2, 2007 at 11:20 AM.
Le Mans Master
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From: No Opti Here Tn
St. Jude Donor '06
Before the white smoke thing I was gonna say leaky radiator or hose or something
White smoke usually means warped head, blown gasket
It can even be cracked block
Hopefully something simple
White smoke usually means warped head, blown gasket
It can even be cracked block
Hopefully something simple
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Drifting
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From: Pasadena Maryland
NO, I think the factory exhaust has the crossover. Look under the car to be sure. If the pipes come together or not. True dual would be 2 separate pipes, the left and right banks would not mix.
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Le Mans Master
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First thing is first, start at the begining. Do a CO test on the coolant, also pull the cap off while its cold, fill it up and watch for bubbles, let it run til its up to operating temp and keep watching.
5 will get you 10 youve done a head gasket, being that its an LT1/4 it cant be much else.
1: Youre losing coolant
2: Youve got white smoke
3: Youre probably sh*t out of luck if you think itll go away on its own
4: The good news is a complete set of gaskets will only cost you about $115 USD
(that includes the head gaskets, intake manifold, water pump, throttle body, and EGR)
You need to verify the fact it is a head gasket failure first before you go anywhere with it.
5 will get you 10 youve done a head gasket, being that its an LT1/4 it cant be much else.
1: Youre losing coolant
2: Youve got white smoke
3: Youre probably sh*t out of luck if you think itll go away on its own
4: The good news is a complete set of gaskets will only cost you about $115 USD
(that includes the head gaskets, intake manifold, water pump, throttle body, and EGR) You need to verify the fact it is a head gasket failure first before you go anywhere with it.
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Im assuming bubbles means...there is a blown gasket, or crack somewhere. If there is no bubbles, then what?
First thing is first, start at the begining. Do a CO test on the coolant, also pull the cap off while its cold, fill it up and watch for bubbles, let it run til its up to operating temp and keep watching.
5 will get you 10 youve done a head gasket, being that its an LT1/4 it cant be much else.
1: Youre losing coolant
2: Youve got white smoke
3: Youre probably sh*t out of luck if you think itll go away on its own
4: The good news is a complete set of gaskets will only cost you about $115 USD (that includes the head gaskets, intake manifold, water pump, throttle body, and EGR)
You need to verify the fact it is a head gasket failure first before you go anywhere with it.
5 will get you 10 youve done a head gasket, being that its an LT1/4 it cant be much else.
1: Youre losing coolant
2: Youve got white smoke
3: Youre probably sh*t out of luck if you think itll go away on its own
4: The good news is a complete set of gaskets will only cost you about $115 USD
(that includes the head gaskets, intake manifold, water pump, throttle body, and EGR) You need to verify the fact it is a head gasket failure first before you go anywhere with it.
Le Mans Master
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From: Queensland, AUSTRALIA
We will cross that bridge if we come to it.
Id be hesitant to pressure test the cooling system until you CO test it. Then do a compresion test. I wouldnt put the coolant under too much pressure til you know what is going on. Run the cap on the first click so it runs less pressure, if the gasket is buggered then its going to allow water into 1 or more of the cylinders. The more pressure, the more water may get in. You dont want water in there.
Id be hesitant to pressure test the cooling system until you CO test it. Then do a compresion test. I wouldnt put the coolant under too much pressure til you know what is going on. Run the cap on the first click so it runs less pressure, if the gasket is buggered then its going to allow water into 1 or more of the cylinders. The more pressure, the more water may get in. You dont want water in there.
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OMG, when I had the plugs and wires replaced I fogot the Tech said my pulley was about to go. I just started her up and heard the pulley noise...damn CO text?
We will cross that bridge if we come to it.
Id be hesitant to pressure test the cooling system until you CO test it. Then do a compresion test. I wouldnt put the coolant under too much pressure til you know what is going on. Run the cap on the first click so it runs less pressure, if the gasket is buggered then its going to allow water into 1 or more of the cylinders. The more pressure, the more water may get in. You dont want water in there.
Id be hesitant to pressure test the cooling system until you CO test it. Then do a compresion test. I wouldnt put the coolant under too much pressure til you know what is going on. Run the cap on the first click so it runs less pressure, if the gasket is buggered then its going to allow water into 1 or more of the cylinders. The more pressure, the more water may get in. You dont want water in there.
Le Mans Master
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From: Queensland, AUSTRALIA
What pulley? Forget the bloody pulley!!! We've got far more important issues here!!!
Let us know what you see when you start it with the cap off. Allow it to run til about 150-170*F (unless it starts bubbling real bad)
Let us know what you see when you start it with the cap off. Allow it to run til about 150-170*F (unless it starts bubbling real bad)
Last edited by Casethecorvetteman; Apr 2, 2007 at 02:45 PM.
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By cap you mean the rad cap, correct? Or the coolant tank cap? So remove the cap then start? Or start then remove?