Quick u joint question
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 297
Likes: 0
From: Wilmington NC
Quick u joint question
I have a 92 coupe with auto and about to order all of the u joints. I'm assuming from what I have read on here that there are two u joints for each half shaft, and two for the driveshaft. True?
I'd get under there and look for myself if I could but can't right now.
I'd get under there and look for myself if I could but can't right now.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 297
Likes: 0
From: Wilmington NC
Basically my 92 has 160k+ miles and I've had it 6 months. Overall the car is in good shape for the miles with a strong engine and tranny. The weak areas seems to be in the suspension. It appears to be a car that wasn't driven hard much, just driven a lot with not much thought of suspension maintenance.
Anyway there are popping/clicking noises when I get on it hard, and a pop when I (initially) shift from reverse to drive. Seems consistant with worn u joints. I'll start there and see how it does. Can't hurt to replace the u joints right? (except in the wallet).
Anyway there are popping/clicking noises when I get on it hard, and a pop when I (initially) shift from reverse to drive. Seems consistant with worn u joints. I'll start there and see how it does. Can't hurt to replace the u joints right? (except in the wallet).
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 4,971
Likes: 9
From: The reason time exists is so everything doesn't happen at once
Basically my 92 has 160k+ miles and I've had it 6 months. Overall the car is in good shape for the miles with a strong engine and tranny. The weak areas seems to be in the suspension. It appears to be a car that wasn't driven hard much, just driven a lot with not much thought of suspension maintenance.
Anyway there are popping/clicking noises when I get on it hard, and a pop when I (initially) shift from reverse to drive. Seems consistant with worn u joints. I'll start there and see how it does. Can't hurt to replace the u joints right? (except in the wallet).
Anyway there are popping/clicking noises when I get on it hard, and a pop when I (initially) shift from reverse to drive. Seems consistant with worn u joints. I'll start there and see how it does. Can't hurt to replace the u joints right? (except in the wallet).
The sound of worn U-joints is a clunk not a pop. Before you start replacing the U-joints get the car up on a lift and check the joints. Grab each rear wheel at 9 & 3 o'clock and try to rock the wheel. Do the same at 12 & 6 o'clock. There shouldn't be any movement. Also try to twist the drive shaft. Again, no movement = U-joints are good. Of course if you want to replace them for peace of mind then go ahead.
Also, the popping/ clicking noises aren't necessarily bad U-joints. If you took a poll on this forum you'll probably find a lot of owners who have this noise. Try changing the differential fluid and add limited-slip additive.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 297
Likes: 0
From: Wilmington NC
The sound of worn U-joints is a clunk not a pop. Before you start replacing the U-joints get the car up on a lift and check the joints. Grab each rear wheel at 9 & 3 o'clock and try to rock the wheel. Do the same at 12 & 6 o'clock. There shouldn't be any movement. Also try to twist the drive shaft. Again, no movement = U-joints are good. Of course if you want to replace them for peace of mind then go ahead.
Also, the popping/ clicking noises aren't necessarily bad U-joints. If you took a poll on this forum you'll probably find a lot of owners who have this noise. Try changing the differential fluid and add limited-slip additive.
Also, the popping/ clicking noises aren't necessarily bad U-joints. If you took a poll on this forum you'll probably find a lot of owners who have this noise. Try changing the differential fluid and add limited-slip additive.
Tooling down the road you hear nothing, no clicks, pops, clunks. Just when under load when or starting out cold.
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Pro
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 735
Likes: 0
From: Glasgow Va
I had a lot of low speed squeaking and a clunk from mine when it went bad.I also had a vibration.I could not really detect any play while turning the shaft back and forth.When it took it apart all that was left in one of the caps was a little rust powder.There were no needle bearings left in it at all.
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 2,286
Likes: 2
From: Stamping Ground KY
a C4 lost a U-joint at an autocross a few weeks back, I think changing them at 160k is good preventive maintenance. Getting stranded sucks.
The 4 half-shaft U-joints are different than the two driveshaft joints.
Where have you found good prices?
The 4 half-shaft U-joints are different than the two driveshaft joints.
Where have you found good prices?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 3,110
Likes: 6
From: Red Sox Nation! RI
http://www.drivetrainspecialists.com/
Just call them. IMHO, use nothing but Spicers! Last I checked they were about $35 each for the halfshafts
Here's a ton of info I posted last year on axle u-joints
Just call them. IMHO, use nothing but Spicers! Last I checked they were about $35 each for the halfshafts
Here's a ton of info I posted last year on axle u-joints
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,263
Likes: 0
From: CV ca
St. Jude Donor '11-'12-'13
I had a right 1/2 shaft , outside u-joint go bad. It would clunk going into reverse, pop once coming off the line, and would start clicking on hard right hand corners. I was suprised to only find 1 bad part.
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Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 4,971
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From: The reason time exists is so everything doesn't happen at once
