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Quick u joint question

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Old Apr 23, 2007 | 12:58 PM
  #1  
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Default Quick u joint question

I have a 92 coupe with auto and about to order all of the u joints. I'm assuming from what I have read on here that there are two u joints for each half shaft, and two for the driveshaft. True?

I'd get under there and look for myself if I could but can't right now.
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Old Apr 23, 2007 | 02:26 PM
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That's correct.
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Old Apr 23, 2007 | 03:51 PM
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Thanks
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Old Apr 23, 2007 | 07:25 PM
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Why are you replacing all the U-joints?
If it aint broke.....
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Old Apr 23, 2007 | 08:50 PM
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Basically my 92 has 160k+ miles and I've had it 6 months. Overall the car is in good shape for the miles with a strong engine and tranny. The weak areas seems to be in the suspension. It appears to be a car that wasn't driven hard much, just driven a lot with not much thought of suspension maintenance.

Anyway there are popping/clicking noises when I get on it hard, and a pop when I (initially) shift from reverse to drive. Seems consistant with worn u joints. I'll start there and see how it does. Can't hurt to replace the u joints right? (except in the wallet).
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Old Apr 23, 2007 | 09:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Raydarlove
Basically my 92 has 160k+ miles and I've had it 6 months. Overall the car is in good shape for the miles with a strong engine and tranny. The weak areas seems to be in the suspension. It appears to be a car that wasn't driven hard much, just driven a lot with not much thought of suspension maintenance.

Anyway there are popping/clicking noises when I get on it hard, and a pop when I (initially) shift from reverse to drive. Seems consistant with worn u joints. I'll start there and see how it does. Can't hurt to replace the u joints right? (except in the wallet).

The sound of worn U-joints is a clunk not a pop. Before you start replacing the U-joints get the car up on a lift and check the joints. Grab each rear wheel at 9 & 3 o'clock and try to rock the wheel. Do the same at 12 & 6 o'clock. There shouldn't be any movement. Also try to twist the drive shaft. Again, no movement = U-joints are good. Of course if you want to replace them for peace of mind then go ahead.

Also, the popping/ clicking noises aren't necessarily bad U-joints. If you took a poll on this forum you'll probably find a lot of owners who have this noise. Try changing the differential fluid and add limited-slip additive.
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Old Apr 23, 2007 | 10:06 PM
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Originally Posted by jrzvette
The sound of worn U-joints is a clunk not a pop. Before you start replacing the U-joints get the car up on a lift and check the joints. Grab each rear wheel at 9 & 3 o'clock and try to rock the wheel. Do the same at 12 & 6 o'clock. There shouldn't be any movement. Also try to twist the drive shaft. Again, no movement = U-joints are good. Of course if you want to replace them for peace of mind then go ahead.

Also, the popping/ clicking noises aren't necessarily bad U-joints. If you took a poll on this forum you'll probably find a lot of owners who have this noise. Try changing the differential fluid and add limited-slip additive.
Humm, I also have a growl from the rear when initially starting off, and a dude I work with (has a C3 Vette he races) suggested it may be the limited slip. The fluid is full, but who knows, the limited slip additive may be old (or missing). Guess I should change it out first based on your suggestion and the fact my co-worker pretty much suggested the same. While it's up there I'll check the u joints too as you suggested.

Tooling down the road you hear nothing, no clicks, pops, clunks. Just when under load when or starting out cold.
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Old Apr 24, 2007 | 12:09 AM
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Clicking is a rear spindle washer
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Old Apr 24, 2007 | 01:37 AM
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I had a lot of low speed squeaking and a clunk from mine when it went bad.I also had a vibration.I could not really detect any play while turning the shaft back and forth.When it took it apart all that was left in one of the caps was a little rust powder.There were no needle bearings left in it at all.
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Old Apr 24, 2007 | 10:02 AM
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a C4 lost a U-joint at an autocross a few weeks back, I think changing them at 160k is good preventive maintenance. Getting stranded sucks.

The 4 half-shaft U-joints are different than the two driveshaft joints.

Where have you found good prices?
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Old Apr 25, 2007 | 02:35 AM
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Originally Posted by JCD
Where have you found good prices?
http://www.drivetrainspecialists.com/
Just call them. IMHO, use nothing but Spicers! Last I checked they were about $35 each for the halfshafts

Here's a ton of info I posted last year on axle u-joints
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Old Apr 25, 2007 | 04:36 AM
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I had a right 1/2 shaft , outside u-joint go bad. It would clunk going into reverse, pop once coming off the line, and would start clicking on hard right hand corners. I was suprised to only find 1 bad part.
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Old Apr 25, 2007 | 01:00 PM
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Originally Posted by FF1wms
I had a right 1/2 shaft , outside u-joint go bad. It would clunk going into reverse, pop once coming off the line, and would start clicking on hard right hand corners. I was suprised to only find 1 bad part.

But I hope you changed them all.
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Old Apr 25, 2007 | 01:13 PM
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I fully agree that if it ain't broke,don't fix it but at 160k the U-joints have seen better days. If it were mine I would change them.
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Old Apr 26, 2007 | 12:49 PM
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Originally Posted by 94ZR1
Clicking is a rear spindle washer
Just check out "Corvette Magazine" June 2007 issue, page 20.
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Old Apr 26, 2007 | 04:49 PM
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Originally Posted by jrzvette
But I hope you changed them all.
Naa, I just popped the caps off and replaced the needle bearings.
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