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changing spark plugs?

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Old Apr 30, 2007 | 01:40 PM
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Hey everyone this will be my first time changing the spark plugs in my car, Ive had it for about 4 months so its time. Heres my question before I do it I would like to ask what is the best way to change them? do I remove the heat shield, also what would be some good plugs to put in? thanks Tony

Last edited by 95!Vette!; Apr 30, 2007 at 01:42 PM.
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Old Apr 30, 2007 | 01:58 PM
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Tony:
Use the Search function and include 'archive posts' in your quest... The topic and information is all here. You can get a variety of views and options. And will overall save you time... finding your answer...
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Old Apr 30, 2007 | 02:19 PM
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Changing the plug wires on an LT1/LT4 Corvette is not a lot of fun, but it can be done. Here's a re-run of a post I made some time ago with tips about changing plug wires and plugs:

Changing plug wires:

1. Raise the front end of the vehicle to a more comfortable working height.

2. Remove the inner fenderwell center panel on the driver's side. This will allow you to both see and do the job much more easily on the driver's side. You may also find it helpful to remove the wheel.

3. Unbolt the ASR bracketry from the frame, so that you can slide the ASR unit around to get it out of your way.

4. Unbolt the power steering pump so that you can move it forward around a half inch. This will make it much easier to sneak the plug wires in/out behind the pump.

5. Remove the serpentine belt and tensioner.

6. Use dielectric grease in the boots at both ends of the wires. Be sure to "burp" the air out of the boots after you get each of them pushed firmly into place, so that the trapped air doesn't try to push the wires off later.

Some guys report that they've had decent success accessing the Opti-end of the plug wires from underneath of the car, and that this saved them the trouble of removing the belt and tensioner. I haven't tried this, so I can't comment.

Take your time, work with care, and pay attention to what you're doing. The OEM replacement plug wires from your Chevy dealer are high quality parts, and will route (and fit into the wire looms) correctly. Run the new wires properly, and make sure they stay away from anything that moves, is sharp, or gets hot.

The passenger's side is not such a bad job. The driver's side is a Queen Royal Beyotch (mostly because all of the belt-driven accessories are hanging on the driver’s side of the front of LT1/LT4 engines, and they leave little room for you to work or see what you’re doing). With plenty of patience, beer and Band-Aids, you'll get it done.

The spark plugs on the driver's side aren't so bad, when you've got things apart to do the wires. The passenger's side, however, is not so easy. The number 8 plug in particular can be a real headache, but with good tools and enough patience, you can get it done. Because there isn’t room for a ratchet on top of the spark plug socket, I use a plug socket that has a hex head on it so that it can be turned with an open end or box end wrench. It's useful to have more than one plug socket to choose from, as some will work better than others due to differences in length, wall thickness, etc.

Be sure to apply a small amount of anti-sieze compound to the threads of the new plugs before you install them so that they won’t seize in the cylinder heads in the future (this is especially important with aluminum heads). Just make sure none of the compound gets onto the electrodes or insulators of the plugs. I apply a very thin stripe of compound across the threads in one spot, and it spreads itself around the threads as I screw the plug into the hole. Also be careful that you don’t pick up any of the grunge that may have accumulated over the years around the spark plug hole in the cylinder head on the new plugs’ electrodes/insulators/threads while you’re installing them – try your best to get the tip of the plug straight into the hole on the first shot.

Be well,

SJW
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Old Apr 30, 2007 | 02:20 PM
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I'm not sure there is a 'best' way to change plugs.

Just take the old ones out and put the new ones in. Sometimes that is easer said than down, of course, as C4 engine compartments can be very, very tight-- especially with a set of long tube headers.

I actually found that a few plugs were easier to reach from under the car. I'd raise it up on the lift and work above my head.
This was an L98 car. I am not familiar with LT1 cars.

Either way, just be certain that you don't bang the plug against the block or the exhaust as you're trying to find the hole. If you bang it too hard, pull it back out and check the gap to make certain it is still correct.

Also, make certain you do not cross thread the new plug!!
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Old Apr 30, 2007 | 02:29 PM
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ok I will do my best to change them I will take the fender out and the wheel thanx guys most apreciated
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Old Apr 30, 2007 | 02:33 PM
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I've always used AC-Delco plugs, but I'm sure about anything will work.
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Old Apr 30, 2007 | 03:01 PM
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That big, meaty, gumball tire makes a great work bench. Thank God for the clamshell hood, too.
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Old Apr 30, 2007 | 03:12 PM
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On the drivers side of my 95 just unbolting the ASR unit and swinging it out of the way made that side pretty easy. Also I removed bracket on the lower rear of the AC compresser. I dont see the need to remove the inner fender on the drivers side if you are only doing the plugs.

On the passenger side the only thing I did to get to the back 2 plugs was to cut back the bolt that holds the dipstick tube, so I could slide my hand back there. I wrapped one end of a hacksaw blade with duct tape to saw the bolt......I would also recommend wearing some type of thin gloves as there are plenty of sharp edges around. ALSO, just take your time......
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Old Apr 30, 2007 | 03:13 PM
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I gained more clearance by removing the plastic fender well panels, too.
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Old Apr 30, 2007 | 05:32 PM
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Good luck , you'll need some patience; it's quite a chore changing the plugs. Follow the above posts for the procedure. As far was which brand spark plugs to go with, the most popular plugs seem to be NGK. If you want to stick with stock plugs then they'd be the ACDelco Platinum.
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Old Apr 30, 2007 | 07:17 PM
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Ive got all of them out except for one, the one at the end on the passenger side I got the socket on it but no room to break it free. What should I use a open end socket Im confused not enough room
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Old Apr 30, 2007 | 07:35 PM
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Are you using the type of sparkplug socket that you can put a box or open end wrench on?
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Old Apr 30, 2007 | 07:46 PM
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Yeah tryed that too not enough room to push it forward, Im gonna try using a swivel head
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Old Apr 30, 2007 | 07:57 PM
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Originally Posted by 95!Vette!
Ive got all of them out except for one, the one at the end on the passenger side I got the socket on it but no room to break it free. What should I use a open end socket Im confused not enough room
The #8 plug on an LT1/LT4 is the worst of the eight. But it can be done. I have an assortment of 5/8 spark plug sockets that differ in their wall thicknesses, overall lengths, etc. It does help. For the #8 plug in particular, I've had decent luck using a socket with a hex head that can be turned with an open-end or box-end wrench, rather than a ratchet, because there isn't a lot of room for a ratchet above the #8 plug.

Be well,

SJW
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Old May 1, 2007 | 11:26 AM
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For Old No. 8, I use a socket with a hex head that can be turned with an open-end or box-end wrench AND a breaker bar. Light yank and it loosens right up (provided you used anti-sieze compound last go 'round).
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Old May 1, 2007 | 11:48 AM
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I can remove all 8 plugs in about 20 to minutes from above on my 95. I do have headers if that makes a difference. The only thing I move out the way is the ASR box. I use a custom LT1 socket and tool I bought from ebay along with one other longer socket.

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Old May 1, 2007 | 11:58 AM
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Hey Guys all is well I got it loose last nite with a breaker bar worked great it took me about 30 min to do it but finally got it, This is my first time changing the spark plugs, so there was no anti sieze on them most of the spark plugs broke when taking them out.Before I put them in I was sure enough to put some anti sieze on them so next time it wont be so hard getting them things out. Does anyone know exactly how much a mechanic would charge to do that? its super easy
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Old May 1, 2007 | 12:57 PM
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Originally Posted by 95!Vette!
Does anyone know exactly how much a mechanic would charge to do that? its super easy
As with anything Corvette related... take your "standard" $60/hr mechanic... then add another $100/hr on top of that just because it's a Corvette. Then if you need simple things like spark plugs from the mechanic, you can take your $2 spark plugs and add an additional $10 on to each one.


yup...that sounds about right

The Chevy engines are not that hard to work on. The more you learn about it and the more you do yourself, you will find you will keep it around a LOT longer because the repair bills turn into a fraction of the cost when you do it yourself.
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Old May 1, 2007 | 07:07 PM
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Well spoken I like your words Aint that the truth. Btw I like your screen name hahaha I always liked Cobra Commander the best
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Old May 1, 2007 | 07:30 PM
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Easy. Sell car and buy 1985 Corvette. Then change plugs in 10 minutes.
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