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Neither, they just snap onto the mounting studs. Ball and socket type connection. There is a little clip thing you slide open to allow the strut to snap over the ball.
Neither, they just snap onto the mounting studs. Ball and socket type connection. There is a little clip thing you slide open to allow the strut to snap over the ball.
Have someone hold the back glass - one used strut will not hold it - trust me I know.
Disconnect the rear defrogger pins.
Use a flat heat screwdriver to pull the small metal clip on each end. One end at a time. The strut will but pull away from the mount.
The new struts will just snap into place.
Easy - should take about 20 minutes.
The back glass is really heavy and it really hurts when it lands on your head.
Not a bad job at all, the way Bryantbjb replied is how it's done. I did mine in about 30 minutes. I used a paint pole to hold up the glass because there was no one around at the time. After I replaced one strut I took the pole out and the glass came down but not fast so I was able to catch it before it got me. You need to replace them both before letting the glass go.
Just verify you take home a left and right. Got two lefts and they didn't have the right. So I replaced the left. It still pops open like its supposed to.
Also be aware to go very slowly when you close the hatch for the first time with the new struts...some of the aftermarket ones can be a hair too long...one of our members replaced his and, not thinking about it, just closed the hatch...turned out the struts were like 1/4" too long and kaboom..shattered his hatch glass...he couldn't tell they were too long with the hatch open...
FYI: make sure you can move the piston in the cyl before you leave the store.... 1x1 cut to hold the hatch up, screwdriver remove and replace... easy job... replace both to make even when closing... and close slow and gently to get the piston moving...
good luck
Autozone has some on the shelf, not sure what brand/price.
MightyLift. Not sure of the lifespan compared to the originals, but they've been perfect for a little over a year for my '85. I think they were $20 each.
Looks like I am gonna have to replace mine (no hurry).
Just wondering how tough a job it is? Is it just a bunch of screws and bolts?
Super easy and a 5 min per side job. A suggestion. If you dont have a person to help hold the hatch up while you replace them you will need a wooden prop 2/4 (Dowell) broomstick or whatever to allow you to change them out. That darn hatch is heavy!! It makes the job that much easier. Place a small hand towel on top of your prop so you dont damage any of the rear defroster grids. Be careful when disconnecting each of the defroster leads on both sides as they are snug and folks that have really pulled hard can pull of the melded leads to the rear grid. So like good lovin go slow
Lastly you will be impressed on the replacements. It will be a night and day change. Dont forget the cold one at the end of the process.
My (MightyLift) autozone ones had defroster hookups on them. I can't say for sure whether they worked or not as my '85 doesn't have a rear defroster. The defroster hookups were also removeable, and I took them off.
Yes but I never have to use it in Arizona. I bought my replacements from MADVET. May have paid more than At autozone or Checker but I knew they would fit and work. Which they do
Last edited by Goldcylon; May 7, 2007 at 11:19 AM.