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Who ever the **** was that invented this idea needs to rot in hell.
First....This torx...
Is a sumnabitch to reach... I don't have a Snapon socket that is both small enough and good enough quality to break that one free. Top that off, thanks to the fact my 92 has 162k miles, the screws, tho looking all nice and clean, are corroded to death.
Secondly, that POS "cotter pin"... I can't get that bastard out to save my life. It's [expletive deleted] superglued in there.
I can't drill it... damned pin is the strongest cotter pin I have ever seen. I can't hammer it, it won't move. Nothing. Not even a millimeter. I have pounded on it like a crazy man... a 1lb sledge with a steel drift and the bastard won't [expletive deleted] move!!!! It's spent 2 nites soaking in PB Blaster... and it STILL WON'T [expletive deleted] MOVE.
I am about ready to take a sledge to the entire POS. Any suggestions before I kill the [expletive deleted]?
Last edited by bogus; May 8, 2007 at 12:16 AM.
Reason: spelling error.
I agree, I spent more time trying to remove that stupid cotter pin that it about drove me crazy. One came out easier than the other but still. Are you trying to install new bushings's or is your motor gone?
Spray some WD 40 over the cottor or liquid wrench.
Last edited by slicked25; May 8, 2007 at 12:42 AM.
Bogus when you figure it out let us know. Is there away to get a small vise grip on the bottom end to wiggle front and backwards while you tap from above? I assume you going to replace that POS pin anyway? Hope this helps? Good luck looks like a total PITA.
Remove the entire headlight door assembly and put it on a bench. It'll make working on things easier. Use an awl to scratch the alignment pattern so you'll be able to mate it up when it comes time to bolt it back in place.
The dowel pin has rusted in place. I had one do the same thing. I used a nail punch to tap mine out. It actually fractured, then it fell out. You can buy replacement pins at the hardware store. Just take your old one in as a reference to size it up.
I still havn't figure out how some engineer thought years and years of doing it one simple way wasn't good enough. Whats wrong with all the years of just about any car ever made that have them just pop up out of the hood? Who's bright idea was it to say... "you know what, lets change EVERYTHING, lets make the lights ROTATE 180* with a big motor on it that will break every so many years! That would be awesome!!"
that engineer needs to be shot.
The person that signed off on the design needs to be shot too.
I still havn't figure out how some engineer thought years and years of doing it one simple way wasn't good enough. Whats wrong with all the years of just about any car ever made that have them just pop up out of the hood? Who's bright idea was it to say... "you know what, lets change EVERYTHING, lets make the lights ROTATE 180* with a big motor on it that will break every so many years! That would be awesome!!"
that engineer needs to be shot.
The person that signed off on the design needs to be shot too.
The electric-powered lamps were actually a huge improvement over the old vacuum powered lights. Ask anyone with a C2 or C-3!
Bogus when you figure it out let us know. Is there away to get a small vise grip on the bottom end to wiggle front and backwards while you tap from above? I assume you going to replace that POS pin anyway? Hope this helps? Good luck looks like a total PITA
I agree. Looks like you could get some needlenose vise grips on it. I know it is tight, but I would get a second set of hands to try to rotate the bottom of the pin, while you hammer it from the top. I love the jokes, but do try a couple of sizes of hammers. A heavy hammer works well on roll pins, you need some control, I would stay away from a mallet, or sledge. That punch, should do the job.
Remove the entire headlight door assembly and put it on a bench. It'll make working on things easier. Use an awl to scratch the alignment pattern so you'll be able to mate it up when it comes time to bolt it back in place.
The cotter's pin has rusted in place. I had one do the same thing. I used a nail punch to tap mine out. It actually fractured, then it fell out. You can buy replacement pins at the hardware store. Just take your old one in as a reference to size it up.
all excellent advice, i went thru it and experienced the same.
andy, do you have a small nail punch? or is the answer obviously yes and i asked an incredibly stupid question?
the position of that one screw you're referring to was designed by a true idiot. there's no way i could reach it direct, as depicted in the 1rst photo (and of course, it always works that way) so i used one of those "snake" screwdrivers and it worked like a charm.
Last edited by Red Tornado; May 8, 2007 at 12:00 PM.
I just redid mine a second time. Replaced the bearings, then the gears cracked and I replaced them with the broze units. I didn't remove that torx bit. I just removed the motor itself. The two on the bottom of the motor and the one on the back side. The one next to the frame is tight, but if you remove it last, and reinstall it first, it works like a charm. No clue on the pin, mine came out with little pressure. Heck I don't even have them on now. I'm going to see if I can find a small cotter pin that won't get in the way. Good luck...
Oh, a problem I ran into. Once you get the motors back on, get a screwdriver and a hammer. Place the screwdriver at the end of the shaft that comes out of the motor. Tap it a few times to make sure it's set in correctly. Mine had come out about a 1/8th inch and where binding which caused my gears to crack.
Last edited by shakedown067; May 8, 2007 at 12:22 PM.