When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I have seen this before and did a search but didn't quite get what I wanted. My battery runs down if not driven everyday. Seems like I read to unhook the negative cable and run a test light between the cable and the battery post and start unplugging fuses. I tried doing that and the light stays on even when all the fuses are unplugged one at a time. Is this the right procedure to narrow down that open circuit search? I am (and proving it now) and electrical klutz. Thanks.
I have seen this before and did a search but didn't quite get what I wanted. My battery runs down if not driven everyday. Seems like I read to unhook the negative cable and run a test light between the cable and the battery post and start unplugging fuses. I tried doing that and the light stays on even when all the fuses are unplugged one at a time. Is this the right procedure to narrow down that open circuit search? I am (and proving it now) and electrical klutz. Thanks.
Not sure but I had this type of problem with my optima battery. Does your battery have top posts and side posts? My top positive post was grounding out against the frame hence the loss of battery power. May not be your situation but maybe another area to look at.
Not optima battery. Has side posts and the battery is about one week old. My old battery was an optima and it tested bad at AutoZone, so I thought the problem was the battery. It was not the battery, though. In the meantime, I just take off the negative cable when I don't drive, but that is a pita.
If you use the search function at the top, go to advanced, in the search area, include archives , then do the search in C4 General & Technical, you'll find the test procedure you'll need.
I'm not sure if you included all the additional stuff i just posted, but it definately helps the searches.
Good luck:
ps: the part missing is the VOM to see where the amp drain is when you're pulling the fuzes, not using a test lite.
I use a digital multi meter that has the amp draw function. What you want to do is to put the two leads on the one of the terminals and then make sure everything is powered down. Then remove the terminal from the battery while maintaining the contact between the battery and the lead. Basicaly you're using the multimeter to form a bridge across the battery. Mine only has a 10 amp draw so if you tried to remove the batt cable first and then hook up the multi meter leads it will blow the fuse inside the multimeter. I cant begin to tell you how many times I've seen people blow fuses/meters that way. The car will power up all the modules as soon as you re-connect the batt after having a lead off and will draw way more than 10 amps. Let us know how many amps it draws and get back to us.
I use a digital multi meter that has the amp draw function. What you want to do is to put the two leads on the one of the terminals and then make sure everything is powered down. Then remove the terminal from the battery while maintaining the contact between the battery and the lead. Basicaly you're using the multimeter to form a bridge across the battery. Mine only has a 10 amp draw so if you tried to remove the batt cable first and then hook up the multi meter leads it will blow the fuse inside the multimeter. I cant begin to tell you how many times I've seen people blow fuses/meters that way. The car will power up all the modules as soon as you re-connect the batt after having a lead off and will draw way more than 10 amps. Let us know how many amps it draws and get back to us.
I don't remember seeing a table in Helms or elsewhere that lists what the normal current draw is for the various circuits. I imagine one might be able to bridge a fuse with the ammeter and then pull the fuse to get a "normal draw" reading on each circuit with the key off, and key on too, I suppose.
Good post. (I had to replace a fuse before I did the bridge trick - learned while in the Navy, but long forgotten until the fuse blew!)
I had the same problem, checked everything I could think of.......Pulled my hair out trying to find the problem.......Went out one night and my drivers door light was on.......Had not driven the car at night for awhile and during the day had not noticed the light being on.....Apparently I had hit the lens and turned it on.......Had a friend, he had the same problem........Told him to go out after dark and check the car for lights being on......His under hood light was on(other one burned out)......Guess what I'm saying is check the simple things first......
Have a Great Day!!!!!!!!
I had the same problem, checked everything I could think of.......Pulled my hair out trying to find the problem.......Went out one night and my drivers door light was on.......Had not driven the car at night for awhile and during the day had not noticed the light being on.....Apparently I had hit the lens and turned it on.......Had a friend, he had the same problem........Told him to go out after dark and check the car for lights being on......His under hood light was on(other one burned out)......Guess what I'm saying is check the simple things first......
Have a Great Day!!!!!!!!
Been there, the guy who bought my car went there too.
must be a regular thing with vettes. Mine drove me nuts so I hooked up a battery tender under the battery box. I come home and plug er in....no problems since. But the warmer weather helps alot too. Dosen't drain so fast ...
Battery Tender is a fantastic idea - one I subscribe to also. It solves the problem of multi-day (sometimes weeks) on not driving the car - like in the winter. These things have a big opportunity to draw a battery down just keeping the electronics alive.
A battery that drains overnight, however, is another matter. Especially a new one. That is evidence of a problem you need to correct before it causes you a more painful repair. Definitely check the simple things first - lights on, shorts, etc. I know it is frustrating - the electrical gremlins are the biggest pain of all for those of us not well versed in electronics. I second the "search the archives for the correct test procedure" advice. Do it, and please report back on what you found. We can all use another suggested troubleshooting shortcut like that "check out the lighting after dark" tip. Good luck,