Brown goo in coolant overflow
05-21-2007, 02:57 PM
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Brown goo in coolant overflow
I have had my 92 for a week now and I thought I would have a look around under the hood since it is nice outside. When I checked the coolant overflow tank I saw a lot of this brown goo all over the dip stick and all over the insides of the tank. I did some reading (searched for coolant flush) and read that if the Dexcool is mixed with the green stuff it turns into this brown goo. Well, I guess that is what happened as the car is running the green stuff now. I opened the fill cap (geez is that thing hard to get off) and that goo is on that cap too. I'm betting it is all through the engine too. *crap* I read the coolant change procedures and they are pretty straight forward.
My question is: Is there a good way to get all this brown crap out of my engine? Will a normal drain, fill, run, drain, fill, run, drain, fill, run, drain, fill with 50/50 mix get rid of this stuff?
Thanks,
My question is: Is there a good way to get all this brown crap out of my engine? Will a normal drain, fill, run, drain, fill, run, drain, fill, run, drain, fill with 50/50 mix get rid of this stuff?
Thanks,
05-21-2007, 03:02 PM
#2
CF JASOC Member
Drain, Fill, Bleed, Run, Repeat. Drain, Fill, Bleed, Run, Repeat.
05-21-2007, 03:05 PM
#4
Racer
You might want to take it to a quick change oil place that does power flushing. They can run the cleaner solution through under pressure and then the clear water flush at the end.
Or if you really want to do it up right flush it yourself (use prestone or some other cleaner/flush then clear water) first to get all the crude out of the engine then pull the radiator out and take it down to your local radiator shop and have them chemical flush it good for you.
Do it quick before it gets any hotter! Summer is here!
Or if you really want to do it up right flush it yourself (use prestone or some other cleaner/flush then clear water) first to get all the crude out of the engine then pull the radiator out and take it down to your local radiator shop and have them chemical flush it good for you.
Do it quick before it gets any hotter! Summer is here!
05-21-2007, 03:10 PM
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It could also be the remnants of those radiator pellets GM used to recommend in aluminum-headed cars including certain Corvette and Caddy models.
Is all the coolant brown? If so, that's not GOOD.
But I agree, a good flush-n-fill is in order to rid your system of the stuff and head off pending (read expensive) problems!
Is all the coolant brown? If so, that's not GOOD.
But I agree, a good flush-n-fill is in order to rid your system of the stuff and head off pending (read expensive) problems!
05-21-2007, 03:10 PM
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05-21-2007, 03:21 PM
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It could also be the remnants of those radiator pellets GM used to recommend in aluminum-headed cars including certain Corvette and Caddy models.
Is all the coolant brown? If so, that's not GOOD.
But I agree, a good flush-n-fill is in order to rid your system of the stuff and head off pending (read expensive) problems!
Is all the coolant brown? If so, that's not GOOD.
But I agree, a good flush-n-fill is in order to rid your system of the stuff and head off pending (read expensive) problems!
05-21-2007, 04:43 PM
#10
CF JASOC Member
Just a thought to consider.
Power flushing sometimes dislodges small pieces of semi corroded heater cores that would have otherwise remained in place and not leaked for years.
You do know that C4s were built around their heater core, right?
Good Luck.
Power flushing sometimes dislodges small pieces of semi corroded heater cores that would have otherwise remained in place and not leaked for years.
You do know that C4s were built around their heater core, right?
Good Luck.
05-21-2007, 04:49 PM
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St. Jude Donor '06
ain't THAT the truth. TRIED (emphasis on tried) to help a bud replace his core one time, vowed never to attempt that again.I had a similar problem with my 77 (Had a 92 LT1 in it) but I had to replace the radiator anyway so I just drained , flushed, filled, bled refilled with 50 green and 50 distilled water and for all I know it is still clean to this day.
Last edited by Madmikeee; 05-21-2007 at 04:53 PM.
05-21-2007, 04:51 PM
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05-21-2007, 07:26 PM
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OK, I guess I'll do it the old fashioned way.Drain, Fill, Bleed, Run, Repeat as often as required. . .
05-21-2007, 09:05 PM
#14
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The proper coolant for the 92 is the ethlyene glycol (green) coolant. It should be mixed 50/50 with distilled water as the final fill.
To do a complete drain, you will need to remove the knock sensors from the bottom of the block. Besides removing the drain plug from the radiator, this wlll drain the balance of the old coolant from the engine. This is also a good time to replace the upper hoses and the lower hose.
When you refill, remember to open both air bleed valves; there is one on the thermostat housing and another on the driver's side of the throttle body. DO NOT let the coolant fall down on the Opti!! It will be damaged if it gets soaked with coolant. Uee some aluminum foil to create a drain path away from it. You can remove and clean out the plastic overflow tank at this time as it's not needed for a flush.
Once you drain all of the coolant, refill with clean water at the expansion tank and start the motor. Let the thermostat open and let the coolant get to close to normal temps. Shut the motor off. let it cool and draing again. Repeat the procedure twice.
With the block and radiator drained, pour in two gallons of coolant concentrate followed by 2 gallons of distilled water (you can use a 50/50 premix too- either way works). As you fill coolant at the expansion tank, watch for a steady stream of coolant to come out of the bleed valves. When that happens close them and continue filling.
Start the motor and let the 'stat open. Run the motor at about 1200RPM and fill the tank to the bottom of the neck. Watch the coolant temp to make sure it does not get beyond 220 or so. If it does, simply stop the motor and let it cool and start again.
Once the coolant is steady at the top of the filler neck, replace the radiator cap, re-install the plastic overflow tank and fill it with a 50/50 mix to the "COLD" line.
The Service Manual states that you should not perform any full throttle operation until the coolant has gone thru three complete cycles of going from cold to operating temp to cold again. This insures that any air bubbles will work their way out of the cooling system.
To do a complete drain, you will need to remove the knock sensors from the bottom of the block. Besides removing the drain plug from the radiator, this wlll drain the balance of the old coolant from the engine. This is also a good time to replace the upper hoses and the lower hose.
When you refill, remember to open both air bleed valves; there is one on the thermostat housing and another on the driver's side of the throttle body. DO NOT let the coolant fall down on the Opti!! It will be damaged if it gets soaked with coolant. Uee some aluminum foil to create a drain path away from it. You can remove and clean out the plastic overflow tank at this time as it's not needed for a flush.
Once you drain all of the coolant, refill with clean water at the expansion tank and start the motor. Let the thermostat open and let the coolant get to close to normal temps. Shut the motor off. let it cool and draing again. Repeat the procedure twice.
With the block and radiator drained, pour in two gallons of coolant concentrate followed by 2 gallons of distilled water (you can use a 50/50 premix too- either way works). As you fill coolant at the expansion tank, watch for a steady stream of coolant to come out of the bleed valves. When that happens close them and continue filling.
Start the motor and let the 'stat open. Run the motor at about 1200RPM and fill the tank to the bottom of the neck. Watch the coolant temp to make sure it does not get beyond 220 or so. If it does, simply stop the motor and let it cool and start again.
Once the coolant is steady at the top of the filler neck, replace the radiator cap, re-install the plastic overflow tank and fill it with a 50/50 mix to the "COLD" line.
The Service Manual states that you should not perform any full throttle operation until the coolant has gone thru three complete cycles of going from cold to operating temp to cold again. This insures that any air bubbles will work their way out of the cooling system.
05-21-2007, 09:14 PM
#15
The proper coolant for the 92 is the ethlyene glycol (green) coolant. It should be mixed 50/50 with distilled water as the final fill.
To do a complete drain, you will need to remove the knock sensors from the bottom of the block. Besides removing the drain plug from the radiator, this wlll drain the balance of the old coolant from the engine. This is also a good time to replace the upper hoses and the lower hose.
When you refill, remember to open both air bleed valves; there is one on the thermostat housing and another on the driver's side of the throttle body. DO NOT let the coolant fall down on the Opti!! It will be damaged if it gets soaked with coolant. Uee some aluminum foil to create a drain path away from it. You can remove and clean out the plastic overflow tank at this time as it's not needed for a flush.
Once you drain all of the coolant, refill with clean water at the expansion tank and start the motor. Let the thermostat open and let the coolant get to close to normal temps. Shut the motor off. let it cool and draing again. Repeat the procedure twice.
With the block and radiator drained, pour in two gallons of coolant concentrate followed by 2 gallons of distilled water (you can use a 50/50 premix too- either way works). As you fill coolant at the expansion tank, watch for a steady stream of coolant to come out of the bleed valves. When that happens close them and continue filling.
Start the motor and let the 'stat open. Run the motor at about 1200RPM and fill the tank to the bottom of the neck. Watch the coolant temp to make sure it does not get beyond 220 or so. If it does, simply stop the motor and let it cool and start again.
Once the coolant is steady at the top of the filler neck, replace the radiator cap, re-install the plastic overflow tank and fill it with a 50/50 mix to the "COLD" line.
The Service Manual states that you should not perform any full throttle operation until the coolant has gone thru three complete cycles of going from cold to operating temp to cold again. This insures that any air bubbles will work their way out of the cooling system.
To do a complete drain, you will need to remove the knock sensors from the bottom of the block. Besides removing the drain plug from the radiator, this wlll drain the balance of the old coolant from the engine. This is also a good time to replace the upper hoses and the lower hose.
When you refill, remember to open both air bleed valves; there is one on the thermostat housing and another on the driver's side of the throttle body. DO NOT let the coolant fall down on the Opti!! It will be damaged if it gets soaked with coolant. Uee some aluminum foil to create a drain path away from it. You can remove and clean out the plastic overflow tank at this time as it's not needed for a flush.
Once you drain all of the coolant, refill with clean water at the expansion tank and start the motor. Let the thermostat open and let the coolant get to close to normal temps. Shut the motor off. let it cool and draing again. Repeat the procedure twice.
With the block and radiator drained, pour in two gallons of coolant concentrate followed by 2 gallons of distilled water (you can use a 50/50 premix too- either way works). As you fill coolant at the expansion tank, watch for a steady stream of coolant to come out of the bleed valves. When that happens close them and continue filling.
Start the motor and let the 'stat open. Run the motor at about 1200RPM and fill the tank to the bottom of the neck. Watch the coolant temp to make sure it does not get beyond 220 or so. If it does, simply stop the motor and let it cool and start again.
Once the coolant is steady at the top of the filler neck, replace the radiator cap, re-install the plastic overflow tank and fill it with a 50/50 mix to the "COLD" line.
The Service Manual states that you should not perform any full throttle operation until the coolant has gone thru three complete cycles of going from cold to operating temp to cold again. This insures that any air bubbles will work their way out of the cooling system.
After you correct the source of the problem!
05-21-2007, 09:31 PM
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The proper coolant for the 92 is the ethlyene glycol (green) coolant. It should be mixed 50/50 with distilled water as the final fill.
To do a complete drain, you will need to remove the knock sensors from the bottom of the block. Besides removing the drain plug from the radiator, this wlll drain the balance of the old coolant from the engine. This is also a good time to replace the upper hoses and the lower hose.
When you refill, remember to open both air bleed valves; there is one on the thermostat housing and another on the driver's side of the throttle body. DO NOT let the coolant fall down on the Opti!! It will be damaged if it gets soaked with coolant. Uee some aluminum foil to create a drain path away from it. You can remove and clean out the plastic overflow tank at this time as it's not needed for a flush.
Once you drain all of the coolant, refill with clean water at the expansion tank and start the motor. Let the thermostat open and let the coolant get to close to normal temps. Shut the motor off. let it cool and draing again. Repeat the procedure twice.
With the block and radiator drained, pour in two gallons of coolant concentrate followed by 2 gallons of distilled water (you can use a 50/50 premix too- either way works). As you fill coolant at the expansion tank, watch for a steady stream of coolant to come out of the bleed valves. When that happens close them and continue filling.
Start the motor and let the 'stat open. Run the motor at about 1200RPM and fill the tank to the bottom of the neck. Watch the coolant temp to make sure it does not get beyond 220 or so. If it does, simply stop the motor and let it cool and start again.
Once the coolant is steady at the top of the filler neck, replace the radiator cap, re-install the plastic overflow tank and fill it with a 50/50 mix to the "COLD" line.
The Service Manual states that you should not perform any full throttle operation until the coolant has gone thru three complete cycles of going from cold to operating temp to cold again. This insures that any air bubbles will work their way out of the cooling system.
To do a complete drain, you will need to remove the knock sensors from the bottom of the block. Besides removing the drain plug from the radiator, this wlll drain the balance of the old coolant from the engine. This is also a good time to replace the upper hoses and the lower hose.
When you refill, remember to open both air bleed valves; there is one on the thermostat housing and another on the driver's side of the throttle body. DO NOT let the coolant fall down on the Opti!! It will be damaged if it gets soaked with coolant. Uee some aluminum foil to create a drain path away from it. You can remove and clean out the plastic overflow tank at this time as it's not needed for a flush.
Once you drain all of the coolant, refill with clean water at the expansion tank and start the motor. Let the thermostat open and let the coolant get to close to normal temps. Shut the motor off. let it cool and draing again. Repeat the procedure twice.
With the block and radiator drained, pour in two gallons of coolant concentrate followed by 2 gallons of distilled water (you can use a 50/50 premix too- either way works). As you fill coolant at the expansion tank, watch for a steady stream of coolant to come out of the bleed valves. When that happens close them and continue filling.
Start the motor and let the 'stat open. Run the motor at about 1200RPM and fill the tank to the bottom of the neck. Watch the coolant temp to make sure it does not get beyond 220 or so. If it does, simply stop the motor and let it cool and start again.
Once the coolant is steady at the top of the filler neck, replace the radiator cap, re-install the plastic overflow tank and fill it with a 50/50 mix to the "COLD" line.
The Service Manual states that you should not perform any full throttle operation until the coolant has gone thru three complete cycles of going from cold to operating temp to cold again. This insures that any air bubbles will work their way out of the cooling system.
05-21-2007, 11:11 PM
#17
Burning Brakes
The "goo" could also be from an oil leak into the coolant system. Either from the trans cooler (if auto) or a faulty head gasket. After clean and flush as above, check it at the radiator cap for awhile. Oil will show up there first. 
05-22-2007, 11:12 AM
#19
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Dexcool was not used in 92 so if you have any in your system a previous owner must have attempted to do the change.
Check for coolant in the oil to make sure you're not dealing with a head gasket or cracked block.
If you are going to remove the upper radiator hose or bleed the system make sure you cover the opti.
Check for coolant in the oil to make sure you're not dealing with a head gasket or cracked block.
If you are going to remove the upper radiator hose or bleed the system make sure you cover the opti.
05-22-2007, 11:22 AM
#20
CF JASOC Member
[QUOTE=jrzvette;1560350859]Dexcool was not used in 92 so if you have any in your system a previous owner must have attempted to do the change.
Check for coolant in the oil to make sure you're not dealing with a head gasket or cracked block.
If you are going to remove the upper radiator hose or bleed the system make sure you cover the opti.[/QUOTE]
Check for coolant in the oil to make sure you're not dealing with a head gasket or cracked block.
If you are going to remove the upper radiator hose or bleed the system make sure you cover the opti.[/QUOTE]